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What I generally do when removing a trans before or without removing the engine is to hook up the engine hoist to the engine and put some tension on it. That should keep the engine in place while I remove the trans. Thanks

I have the 2 ton HF engine hoist and I'll be using it on level concrete. I'm not worried about getting enough height to get everything over the radiator support; I can just pull the front wheels off if needed. But the balance point is an issue. I like the idea of removing the transfer case...

Bumping an OLD thread. I'm taking the original drivetrain (302/3 sp/Dana 20) out of my '69 this weekend. I have a decent transmission jack that I will use and I will drop the trans and transfer case out of the bottom. My question is what to do first? I'm inclined to do the trans/transfer...

Anxious to hear updates as well. Please post details once you install it.

This ^^^. There's a big difference between minor surface rust and nasty scaly rust-through.

Today? Not a damn thing, but it's finally out of storage and in the shop, and I'm really excited to get started on it after I spend some more time on my '91 F350 crew cab diesel dually.

This ^^^. Without pics, it's really an exercise in futility.

That would be my vote, too.

Thanks

I'm disassembling a 19968 model Dana 30 and the king pins are giving me trouble. Any tips besides using heat, Kroil, and a bigger hammer? thanks, Scott

It would be helpful to know where you live and what temps you're driving in. Are you in Key West? Anchorage? Somewhere in between? Also, is this all highway driving? Whatever the case, it does sound low. I wonder if you have a 160 degree thermostat installed or maybe no thermostat at all...

Ok, so this is what I need, right? https://torqueking.com/product/40209/qu40209-dana-44-ring-gear-bolt/

I'll see if I can find the serrated ring gear bolts from Dana Spicer. Thanks

I actually think all the ring gear bolts are still present, just some worse for the wear. Thanks for that info. Good to know. This might be a good time to break out the red Loctite. Thanks. I'll give it a good inspection; hopefully the pinion gear is intact.

I don't know if it was making noise or not; got it from a guy for $75 and he didn't have any history on it. I don't plan to run it as-is. I'll go ahead and rebuild it. Between this D30 and the D30 that's in my Bronco now, should be enough good bits to make one good one.

Bought a Dana 30 to build for my '69 Bronco. Yes, I know they're weak; it's just a stopgap measure until I build a D44. Anyway, I pulled the front cover yesterday after work and found some carnage. Fook. There were a few smallish chunks of metal in the oil when I drained it; some were just a...

Sourced a 302 and 3 speed to build for my '69 project. Mine has a 302 but block is cracked. Not sure about the the condition of my 3 speed but the guy selling the 302 had 4 to choose from, so I picked the cleanest one and threw it on the trailer, too.

I'm just looking for simplicity, hence the reason for keeping the original front dress. I also won't be running power steering or A/C, so I just need a single belt to run the alternator and fan/water pump. On the fuel pump, I have two freshly rebuilt pumps to use with vacuum wipers. I'd...

My stock 302 is tired and has a crack in the front of the block, so I've been looking for a while for an affordable roller 302, bare block, or short block. There's an affordable 1999 Exlplorer 5.0 available nearby that I'm interested in. I want to run carbureted and with manual fuel pump (I...

Gonna have to see pics of this one!