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Mine will be 10 years in september. When it was taken apart it was to be a 6 month deal,but as things progested it took on a new direction. In that time I bought 6 others to fill the need,most were bought just to be sold but I did come arcoss one that was to be with me for 7 years. It was sold...

I removed them from my project and at the same time welded up the stake sides pockets it really cleaned up the top of the bed. Mine was a 71 and had the long stakes,the one thing I did at this time was go back and welded up the gussets and any areas around the rear lift gate to hold that area...

I think 95% of all the bolts used to hold on body parts and what ever else on a bronco are 5/16 course thread. The only ones different are the tale gate hardware,and they are 3/8".

If trick flow has a stage 1 try that,if is not enough go with more ratio on your rockers. What ever you use I would like to find out what you did because I have the same set-up.

I've been reading these post and want to chime in. I've built mine a few years ago. I used a 63 ford pu type and mounted it to the right side of the column, it was a purty simply swap,all I had to do was add a little lenth to the mounting bracket so it would bolted on to the bottom of the dash...

I would bag the stainless idea, one or two times thur with a door bolt under tork and the threads would be gone.I would use cold rolled 3/8"x flat bar painted, would last forever.

I did it by using a piece of flat bar about 3/8x2"x?,I used it as a anval,to back up the flat head side of the rivet and a 3/16 punch, gave it good wack and it was very tight, never losened up.

I've had my doors, empty cores haggin for over a year by the window frame, and feel that theres no damage to this point, but the frames are also fully welded. When I start reassambly the doors will not hang again from the frames. I feel that the weight will increase by I quessing 100+%. The...

I think that before you start a door skin job, you should first be sure your hinges are new or rebuild and the body mounts are new and shimed so your door gaps are correct or after all your door skin work is done,you start replacing these parts and you will find that you installed the new skin...

clutch parts If your cores are good,take them to a brake and clutch rebilder. Years ago I had a turbo charged 200 six,with a 9" clutch, and I had them up-grade the springs,added bushed slides at the fingers,or what ever they did on the pres. plare, you know you could feel it was a lot better...

West marine has a boat filter,spin-on type about 2/3 the size of a stock oil filter. The filter has a built in water seperator. I think it's $20

The hand brake set-up I'am using (when it finished) came off my 63 ford F-250. It's a true pull the handle type. On the 250 it sits to the left of the column,on mine it sits on the right side of the column angled out so it is in line with my right shoulder. I saw this in a mid 80's nissan truck...

It sounds like to me or maybe a starting place is your body mounts? If your mounts under your feet area are shot couldn't the body at the fire wall bend or droop? The mounts behind the front seats is were all the weight is hanging. A 1/8" at the feet mounts could be a 1/2" at the top of the...

Had one on my 72 for 5 years and it was the best for all a round use and it performed flawlessly off-road to. I know on a hunting trip once going up hill at such a angle that that white smoke started pouring out from under the hood, thinking I had a fire I shut it off and got out and slid down...

Yes I have rewired to the centech harness. I had a ididit column before but it was for a floor shifted stick, went to a auto on this go around,should of measured the old one before I sold it. Hey thanks guys for all the info.

I want a new Ididit or Flaming river column, and was wondering how long to buy? And I want a column shift for a automatic.Any ideas? I know that all the vendors sell them but I want to shop. Also I hear that there's a guy on ebay, is that true. Any help would be great. Mike

Before you do anything how about go back to the rear tank unplug the wire and jump the conection,if the gauge reads full then its the sender if not goto the switch and unplug it and wire around the switch, and try again.

Sounds like a vacume leak.If you are running a edelbrock manifold, they told me (Pony Carb) that vacume leaks were for sure. If you are look at were the carb and the manifold come together, the edelbrock is under cut around the bottom of the carb a bunch. What I did was get a 5/8" phenolic...

Sounds like your power valve is out. If so measure your vacume at idel divide by 2 and start there. Or, say you are ideling at say 18 inches divide by 2 or #9 PV. The reason I say it's your power valve is the fact that you have droped your jet size, and if the power valve is bad it will add more...

I used the pertronix 1 in my 64 comet and have had no problems at all, I think that which ever one you use, use there coil and new wires and a good quality cap and rotor and maybe add a little more gap on the plugs. The only think that I would double check is if the dist. is still doing it's job...