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I'm going to be using the push mount wire ties from Del City see:
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=133&childid=32842&page=1&tabset=1&pageitem=1&new=y
They push through a 1/4" hole
I agree with Chuck! You should just get the individual parts. I recommend BC's front coils, Cage's shocks (http://completeoffroad.com/), a 10+ leaf pack from the closest vendor (save on shipping) then you have to decide how you want to handle the steering. Most kits come with drop pitman arm and...
The primary issue is your tire size. I'm building a fairly significant rig and sticking with the 44/9" combo, but I also plan on staying with 36" tires. And building both axles as STRONG as possible 35sp for the 9 and yukon (sp?) axles and joints for the 44. If you plan on 38" tires or bigger...
Minimal Progress
Well I've been saving money and working on rockjock's 70. I finally bought my 35 spline True Hi9 Third Member a couple of months ago. We reworked the Klune / D20 clocking and now have to build the 3 shifters for the Dana 20 twin stick and the klune.
Once the weather warms up...
I just bought mine from a local shop at a very good price. They are suppose to arrive today, but I'm not holding my breath. The shop owner is a friend of mine and might be interested in talking with Cage on a mass buy. I'll give him a call and see what he says. I would suspect the price for 10+...
It is originally molded into the kick panel. It was probably rusted out and replaced from some other rig. You would have to buy a replacement pan from one of the vendors to replace it.
OK now I feel REAL stupid. What a simple idea and I have a chunk of 3/4 copper pipe in the garage already!! I do tend to over complicate things at times. %) ;D %)
THANKS!!!
Yes, you should install 'BOTH' the drop track bar mount and the drop pitman arm to prevent bump steer and use your existing track bar and drag link. You can barrow a pitman arm puller from AutoZone or buy one from Harbor Freight or your local parts store. You should also spray it with either PB...
I have been looking for a piece of copper to try this trick with, but have not found a source so far. I never considered that brass might work, I could get that at the local hardware store. Can anybody recommend a source of copper so I can try this method?
Your stock T-Shift allows you to shift 2-High, Neutral, 4-High and 4-Low.
The twin stick allows: Rear-High, Front-High, 4-High, Neutral, Rear-Low, Front-Low, 4-Low.
Yep, wait for the weight. ;D I would also consider putting a raised track bar mount on your axle. Off topic, would you post a side view pic I would like to see the radius arms from the mount forward.
Avg Frame Off Cost
I don't think there is an Average. It depends on what needs fixing and what modifications you do. I'm sure mine will be at least $20,000
Here's the link for the T-Shift: http://www.wt4x4.net/tech/twinstick.htm You might want to get a rebuild kit while your at it. I got my kit from Wild Horses.
The link gives a partial solution to the 'popping out of gear' issue.