170ci EFI/swaptions

[Tremelune]

I'm looking around for my first early Bronco, and the prices are pretty wild in California. It seems like the straight-six trucks are $5-10k cheaper than a comparable V8 example, so I'm trying to run some numbers in my head a bit.

My goal is to have a reliable motor that always starts and never stalls, and to me that means fuel injection. It would be nice to have a bone-stock 5.0L HO motor in there, but I think I would be fine with 100hp until the motor started causing problems. I would want a manual transmission as well.

Where would you go from there? EFI on the 170? Is there more pain going from an I6 to a V8 than just cutting and welding motor mounts?

 

[bamabaja]

Check out Bronco vendors web sites, most have tech article on 6 to 8 swap, including parts needed. Also check out current Coyote thread in Chat for coyote swap. IMHO don’t waste money on 170 unless going original or happy with 6 cylinder. I have both 6 and 8 motors in different rigs, and both work great for that specific rig. And folks here rock crawl with 6s, think gearing and torque, so decide your intended use, them motor that best fits that use. Good luck.

 

[chriskent85]

you can get the holley sniper 2 barrel.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/sniper_2300_2bbl/parts/550-850

 

[toddz69]

These guys also make a nice TBI kit for the 6 cylinders.

https://www.affordable-fuel-injection.com/product/ford-optimum-series-tbi-kit/

Todd Z.

 

[needabronco]

The stock 1 barrel carb is dead simple and probably the most reliable carburetor ever. I'd rebuild the stock carburetor and run it.

 

[bmbm]

six options

Autolite and Carter carbs can be very reliable. Ford made a 200 and a 250 six that you can get to replace the 170 and performance mods are possible. The transmission is something you may want to plan on swapping for a better driving experience. Look into a five speed for the best results.
Check out fordsix.com

 

[CraigS]

Remember the 200 should be a direct replacement for a 170, the 250 is not.

 

[blubuckaroo]

There's a really good Ford six cylinder performance book out. If you've got a 144/170/200/250, you need this book.
It's a bit outdated in the areas of electronic ignition and fuel injection, but still a lot of good build info.
One thing they show, is modification to the intake for two barrel use. They use either a Autolite 2100 or a Weber progressive two barrel.
I can't see why you couldn't bolt on a Sniper or FiTech two barrel throttle body injection system.

 

[Tremelune]

Interesting. Seems like making due with a good, clean stock carb would be viable in the 40-90°F we see in LA...and if more power was desired, well, wallet's the limit with a V8 swap!

Thanks, folks.

 

[1strodeo]

Interesting. Seems like making due with a good, clean stock carb would be viable in the 40-90°F we see in LA...and if more power was desired, well, wallet's the limit with a V8 swap!

Thanks, folks.

I'm guessing you don't logon very often??!? ;D

I am currently, and have been for some time, battling in my own mind whether or not to swap a V8 onto my 66...and what makes it so tempting is that the body is off the chassis! Tub is being completely redone, will have fresh paint and everything...so why not make it mine?

I very much want to put in a 289 to make it period correct (they started installing the 289 in the Bronco roughly a month before mine rolled down the line) but it will still have the 170 VIN of course. While the 289, I think, will give plenty of power and vroom to the top-heavy brick known as the EB, why not go 351? 408? It's that "while you're at it" mentality/rabbit hole that so many folks like us go down...I just think it's overkill, especially for a mostly STREET Bronco.

In other words, I've narrowed it down to 289 or keep what I got, sorry for the lengthy post!

 

[Tremelune]

I wound up buying a CJ7 "test" rig, so I kinda fell out of research at that point. My plan with the CJ was to spend a year figuring out if I'm a complete idiot to buy a 40-year-old truck with no top/doors that barely drives straight at 75mph and can't haul much (without spending $10k+). After a month with the CJ, I've come to realize that I'm actually a true genius and I should never be without one of these trucks again...but my Bronco plans are now deferred until Fall at least.

My Bronco plan is perhaps similar to yours—build something to keep for a looong time. Engine out, body-off, top-notch parts, etc etc...I just need to make some garage space...and there's also this damn '69 Mustang idea...Employment is having a really bad effect on my project schedules, but it's also what allows for projects...

From what I've found searching the market, originality doesn't necessarily win over a well-done restomod. You see Broncos going for $60k+, and they're rocking Coyotes, aftermarket axles, heated seats, and cut rear fenders...A lot of the value seems to be in a truly rust-free frame and tub with good paint, so you're (likely) ahead there regardless.

Originality certainly doesn't hurt, but I wouldn't sweat it too much. The way to really get value out of a car is to enjoy it as much as you can. If you build it well, the money might come back if you do sell. The value of these cars is crazy-clean originality, or literally the cost of parts and time/talent of the work performed.

 

[okie4570]

I wound up buying a CJ7 "test" rig, so I kinda fell out of research at that point. My plan with the CJ was to spend a year figuring out if I'm a complete idiot to buy a 40-year-old truck with no top/doors that barely drives straight at 75mph and can't haul much (without spending $10k+). After a month with the CJ, I've come to realize that I'm actually a true genius and I should never be without one of these trucks again...but my Bronco plans are now deferred until Fall at least.

My Bronco plan is perhaps similar to yours—build something to keep for a looong time. Engine out, body-off, top-notch parts, etc etc...I just need to make some garage space...and there's also this damn '69 Mustang idea...Employment is having a really bad effect on my project schedules, but it's also what allows for projects...

From what I've found searching the market, originality doesn't necessarily win over a well-done restomod. You see Broncos going for $60k+, and they're rocking Coyotes, aftermarket axles, heated seats, and cut rear fenders...A lot of the value seems to be in a truly rust-free frame and tub with good paint, so you're (likely) ahead there regardless.

Originality certainly doesn't hurt, but I wouldn't sweat it too much. The way to really get value out of a car is to enjoy it as much as you can. If you build it well, the money might come back if you do sell. The value of these cars is crazy-clean originality, or literally the cost of parts and time/talent of the work performed.

The original crowd is very small one imo. 99.9% of folks buying Mecum and BJ auction broncos for $60k+ have little to no clue what was/is original and what's not.

 

[EB70]

I have mentioned this before, but a guy up the road a few hours had a couple of really nice Broncos. I think he sells one a year or so.

He said, lifted and cut, 35's with nice current wheels, really nice driving and healthy V8's sell all day long. He says that most buyers don't care about a Dana 30 or any of that. Just a safe, good driving Bronco to go and get ice cream is what he sells.

Personally I think it is refreshing compared to some of my other interests and the whole numbers matching thing etc. I like a tasteful restomod myself.