1971 Stroppe Bronco rebuild

[House]

Gotcha, that makes more sense. Thanks for the link.

 

[C_Man69EB]

Updates coming in hot. Drive-train restoration pics

Dear friends, I'll be more diligent about regular updates. Been working on the Stroppe quite a bit lately! so.. lets get started with updates. Here are some progress pics from late 2018. Last post, I did have the chassis in black paint. I slowed down some in January, the shop doesn't heat really well so the winter just took the energy out of me. But in late January I got the axles painted.

As a reminder, the truck was largely "mechanically" restored when I got it, and I have been able to verify this through p.o. documents and visual check. We have clean assembly lube, brand new brakes and seals on the rear end, etc. so much of this was paint only. Here are the front and rear axles and suspension drying from epoxy spray.

Sorry for the rotated pic. I didn't know it was going to do that.

 

[C_Man69EB]

by the way, I had read that people find their VINs in other places. Here is the second place I found mine.

 

[C_Man69EB]

I got lots of parts brushed, wire wheeled or blasted and then prepped and painted. I was kinda anal about Driver or Passenger, even if they looked symmetrical so I stamped "D" or "P" and Front / Rear "F or R" with my punches. They were tiny but it let me put the same pieces back in the same place. Somehow, I slept better at night.

 

[C_Man69EB]

Transmission prep and clean!

One of the things I struggled with the most, was how to properly clean the transmission. I was told by the PO that it had been rebuilt, and had receipts, but the outside was dirty. I didnt want to take it apart just for the case cleaning so I researched "wheel acid" which is a mix of phosphoric acid and hydrofluoric acid. very popular for brightening natural aluminum. I was very hestitant because I didint want to hurt the tranny, but after trying it on a small spot...then getting braver and cleaning the whole thing with a brass brush and power washer for several rounds, it really cleaned up nice. I'm very pleased and there were no consequences. Just wore a ventilator and used good gloves and goggles to be safe.

 

[C_Man69EB]

Engine Time!

Now on to the motor..so again, completely new motor. After further investigation, its a crate motor, but I dont know who built it. I pulled the intake, valve covers and pan. It had clearly never been fired. it still had assembly lube on the crank. It has "warranty void if removed" tags on the freeze plugs. (which I immediately removed because they looked dumb, LOL) I assume its a stock cam. Timing chain looked brand new. New seals, etc. So I blasted the covers and pan off the motor, washed them all thoroughly and painted them separate with DE 1601 Ford Blue. ( it was the WRONG color of Ford blue before, but after asking Andrew and others here, we definitely got the correct color now. )

I masked the motors sensitive openings, and then spent hours with assorted die grinder wire wheels and brushes to get good tooth, and painted the motor and reassembled.

Here are some pics before paint.

 

[C_Man69EB]

NEW BLUE on the motor

and now on to fresh blue!!

I studied up on factory motor painting methodology..its funny how the factory just painted them as a long block... right over the timing cover, gaskets, bolts etc..but I wanted to convey some original accuracy here..so here you go! I left the old plugs in and will get new ones. I think it turned out good, I'm happy.

 

[C_Man69EB]

Chassis assembled

By the way, prior to actually restoring the engine and transmission, I did assemble the chassis.

New black urethane bushings from WH, for C's, radius arms and leaf springs. I pressed out the factory black rubber bushings in the leafs and shackles, and greased up the new bushings and installed. Also, the rear diff got the center section painted with red oxide and clear coated for durability/ finish. The red is a bit glossier than I prefer, and even used matte hi-temp clear...but I'm probably going to leave it.

I also researched as much as I could, and asked the forum on a different thread, about proper chassis and major component colors. It was VERY hard to get a consensus, but I've landed on my own personal opinion that a surprising number of components left the factory "unfinished" meaning, they would eventually rust. Transfer case, some suspension drag links, tie rod ends, brake drums, etc. So I have implemented a strategy that Ive seen others use. All of these parts I am painted in "cast iron" so they get a visually different "natural" finish treatment...but wont rust. I can't imagine ACTUALLY letting them rust, even if that was the most "OE" thing to do. So, there you go.

 

[C_Man69EB]

Transfer Case refinished

So, in keeping with the cast iron paint concept, the T-case got wire brushed, masked and painted.

 

[C_Man69EB]

The big finale, motor IN the chassis

Then, just this weekend, I hit a milestone and got the motor and trans, back home in the chassis.

Thanks everyone for the encouragement. I've got good momentum and I'm moving forward after this with dressing out the motor, tightening up bolts, brake and fuel lines, new front steering linkage to be installed, drive accessories, etc.

I kinda breezed through the last 90 days here in a quick summary. I could easily included more info in verbiage than anyone wants...but I really do appreciate all the words of wisdom.

More to come!!

 

[toddz69]

Looking really good!

Todd Z.

 

[green61bug]

What a great build and good pics to boot!!!

 

[C_Man69EB]

Looking really good!

Todd Z.

Thank you Todd! Appreciate all you do. You are on my list of "Guardians" of irreplaceable history and truth.. its a short list!

 

[77Bronco636]

You are making great headway....looking really good man!! Can't wait to see the body mounted to the chassis!!!!!

 

[bamabaja]

Very nice !

 

[75Denver]

Why am I not working on mine?? This thread is stoking a fire.

 

[C_Man69EB]

Hello friends and good evening.

As usual, I've been quiet and haven't engaged The Forum on my build and several weeks, but I have been working on the truck. Latest developments are Parts purchases, including electrical harness and brake items, and I've been spending some important I'm refinishing the power steering box and sorting the front engine drive accessories.

The body is on the rotisserie, and I've been working underneath. As a recap and reminder, I did not strip and repaint the entire truck. The poppy red was just too good and it was worth saving. So I repainted all of the Wimbledon white, the astral blue, and the satin black hood. Also the engine bay was repainted. But the majority of the exposed poppy red remains in place from the previous owners work.

Because I did not blast or dip the entire truck ahead of time, now I'm dealing with restoring the underside of the truck by hand. The end game is red oxide top coat per OEM. I have previously asked if there was any possibility this undercoating was Factory install or even Stroppe installed in the general consensus was no, even though this truck is one of the rare Seattle District bajas. The Seattle District Baja's had a few differences as I have learned from Andrew and the research. The Seattle District Baja's were typically 3.50 ratio gears. In my mind, I postulated that the dealer applied the undercoating due to the climate of that region but nevertheless, I've been working to get it all off the truck. The red oxide is clearly visible underneath.

After I get the majority of the undercoating off and the pan wire brush down to bare metal, I'll apply the red oxide top coat.

Fuel lines, brake lines and a few suspension touch-ups need to go on the chassis while they're easy to get to.

Not long after that, I plan to set the body on the chassis!

Any suggestions for red oxide top coat? Keeping in mind this is not the same thing as the more porous red oxide primer. Eastwood has a product that has good reviews. I was thinking about going that direction.

 

[T-Bird]

Looking Great!

 

[Hopstr]

Great job!!!! Nice to see you really doing it right.

 

[C_Man69EB]

Baja Bronco L22491 Update

Time for an update. Looks like its been since, gulp...JULY since I've posted. But I want you all to know I have been working quite a bit on L22491. Today was a milestone.

First I'll bring you up to speed on whats been done since the last post:

1. Finished out the accessories, power steering and drive assembly.
>> according to records L22491 was a non-power steering truck from Stroppe. I presume the system was installed by a previous owner. With the truck being so early, and pre-consignment (individually ordered) and it was like the second one built, I even wonder if Stroppe installed it before it left the shop, but who knows. Nevertheless I decided to keep it installed for driveability, along with power brakes. I have a zinc plated Bendix factory style booster, so it will look OE.


2. Restored and finished the Stroppe Transmission Cooler.

3. Front steering linkage installed.
>> even though it departs from OE, I wanted the adjustability and duty so I ordered the fully adjustable model from WH. This will allow me to fine tune the front end and keep the steering wheel level.

4. Rigid brake lines and fuel lines installed.
>> I used the SS dual line clamps from WH and decided to upgrade to a 3/8" stainless fuel line from from to rear in lieu of the factory vinyl. The plastic line felt sloppy and unsafe. I was able to install the line clamps in the factory holes along the inner frame rail, in all locations, so I didn't drill a single new hole in the frame.

5. New OEM style rear tank, straps and sending unit.
>>Found a rust hole in my original. UGH. BOO!