302 Rebuild checklist

[Jdgephar]

Ok, so this has probably been asked a thousand or more times. I'm having my 302 rebuilt at a reputable speed shop. I've done a ton of reading and want to make sure I've covered everything for a reliable buildup. It's a 5.0 hydraulic roller block from a '89 lincoln. I'm looking for reliability and street driving. The bore is good on the block, so going with standard bore. Reusing the crank and rods. New forged pistons. Heads are iron and were ported by the previous owner. They have been rebuilt with no lead fuel in mind (stainless exhaust valves, hardened seats, etc). Already have roller rockers. So for the rest of the lower end, what things do I need to check for to make sure I have a reliable motor? Other info, if needed: Edelbrock performance dual plane intake, autolite 4100 carb (480 cfm), long tube headers, rotating asm will be balanced.

I don't really need recommendations, as the shop I'm working with is very good. I just need to make sure I discuss everything I need to with them for a reliable build.


- The block had an aftermarket cam, waiting for recommendation from builder
- Cam will affect what distributor gear to use.
- double roller timing chain setup
- Cam timing - I know in the 70s they were retarded, normal practice is???
- Piston rings
- brass freeze plugs
- with the internals balanced, what does that mean for flywheel and harmonic balancer? Still 28oz?
- NO Fel-Pro 1250 intake gaskets

I think that covers everything, but I know many of you have more experience with this.

 

[airbur]

Pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft, harmonic balancer, and flexpate/flywheel should all be balanced at the same time by the same person. Go 28oz if at all possible.

 

[rguest3]

Since the 89 5.0 Block is a Roller Block you will need a steel distributor gear to be compatible. I would suggest Comp Cams for a complete "K-Kit". Would take all the guess work out of what will work with new cam and would include Timing Set as well. Comp Cams are usually installed Straight Up which with Comp would have the advance already in the Cam. Below 220' Duration at .050 would be street friendly, just depends on if you want a little lope of not. I had a carbed Comp Cam that was 215,215 duration and .533 lift and was very street friendly with LOTS of torque. Magnum 270 - Maybe?

Got forged pistons, I would go with Moly Rings.

Balance - The 89 5.0 has a 50oz. Balance from the factory. If you are re-balancing the whole rotating assembly as stated before, it may be changed to the 28oz. But, I kinda question why you would change it???

Edelbrock Performer and 480 cfm 4100 would be a VERY good match.

Sounds like you pretty much have it.

 

[Jdgephar]

Thanks for the advice. I have no intentions of changing the balance. Must've confused that with the 351. Cam I have now is comp cam 35-000-8. .513 intake and exhaust. 224 intake and 230 exhaust. I'll see what my builder recommends also.

 

[needabronco]

If your NOT boring the block then there's no reason to buy new pistons, the early 5.0's (at least every one I've torn down) had forged pistons to begin with. Unless your pistons are trashed I'd reuse them and use moly rings. Your engine is for roller cams so you need a steel cam gear.

As for the intake and cam you need low RPM ratings, I'd suggest a regular Performer intake and a cam similar to the performer as well.

 

[broncnaz]

The cam makes or breaks the engine. I'd get recommendations from a cam company or two. Not saying your builder doesnt know anything but they tend to build more for light weight cars where you can get away with more cam. Usually in a bronco staying with the stock roller cam or a explorer cam are good choices. but a lot depneds on the rest of your setup.

 

[Jdgephar]

I'll double check on the cam recommendations. This builder is good. He knows the application is for a truck build. He's pretty well known for boat motors, especially before Mercury started making 500+ HP motors stock. Maybe someone here knows him? Norm Beerhorst at Ultra Tech racing.