351w/ZF-5/Dana 20

[bobbiey27]

Hello,

Wondering if there is some help out there. I've got my FULL restoration going pretty well. I am curious what you all are doing with this setup and I'll try and provide all of my questions below. I've got a rebuilt 351w with a ZF-5 Ford transmission. Along with that is the Dana 20.

1. I'm curious about what shifters you all are using- part numbers would be great for both transfer and transmission?
2. What does the mounting entail for the body? My research on this says .5" of body lift is sufficient.
3. Any pictures of how this setup will look inside the Bronco? I'd just like to get a feel for what we will be cutting/fabricating to make this work.

That's probably all for now- any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Brad

 

[.94 OR]

I'm interested in this setup as well.
EFI or Carb?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Half inch of body lift may or may not be enough just for the engine. The 351 gets tall really quick.

 

[1969]

The ZF5 will require a 2” body lift, or you have to modify the transmission tunnel. I chose to run a 1” BL and modify the tunnel. The stock shifter works fine, but I wanted something a little more dressed up so I got a shifter from JB fab.
Are you off-roading with bronco? What is its primary purpose? Depending on your goals with the bronco you could go a different route with the transfer case and save some money on the expensive $500 adapter.

 

[Galt72]

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/never-ending-12-yr-build.322854/

Take a look here, I've got a pic of the ZF shifter from JB. Also, farther down the page I go into some detail about the set up

 

[bobbiey27]

Thank you all for the comments. I am going carb- need some of that in my life. I will order the JB shifters and go from there.

Side question on the Dana 20 J style. In order to create dual shifts is all you have to do is grind/cut the transfer case shift rail? Can it really be that easy?

 

[Bitch'nBronco]

The ZF5 will require a 2” body lift, or you have to modify the transmission tunnel. I chose to run a 1” BL and modify the tunnel. The stock shifter works fine, but I wanted something a little more dressed up so I got a shifter from JB fab.
Are you off-roading with bronco? What is its primary purpose? Depending on your goals with the bronco you could go a different route with the transfer case and save some money on the expensive $500 adapter.

Agree here, I went with an NP205 to save money and its stronger than the Dana 20. Another vote for JBFab shifters and if you go with the 205, the JBFab adjustable shift detents are a nice add. You're also going to have to modify both driveshafts as the yokes will be further back than the stock bronco setup.

 

[Timmy390]

Thank you all for the comments. I am going carb- need some of that in my life. I will order the JB shifters and go from there.

Side question on the Dana 20 J style. In order to create dual shifts is all you have to do is grind/cut the transfer case shift rail? Can it really be that easy

You just cut the flags on the J shift......Quick and easy.

Tim

 

[Viperwolf1]

I would recommend a heavy duty rear output shaft for the D20 with that 351w/ZF combo. The stock rear shafts are pretty weak and you'll have more than enough torque in low range/1st gear to twist it in two.

 

[nvrstuk]

I ran a 351W/ZF/203/D20 back in '99.

I didn't want to spend the bucks and have a long drivetrain w/o the benefits of having a doubler. So I made the 203 bolt up to the ZF with a couple parts from W/H as there wasn't a kit back then. I drilled and tapped holes from the 203 to the D20. Worked great for 12 yrs.

Started off carb'd.

Use whatever body lift you want but unless you go 2" you will need to cut the tunnel and modify it. EZ

BEND the ZF shifter, makes it fit perfect and EASY to do

Do what Viperwolf said. You NEED to upgrade the output shaft of the D20. In fact, the entire D20 will have trouble surviving behind the low gears of the ZF if you actually wheel in HIGH traction situations. If you never go off road you will probably be ok, but the D20 is a LIGHT duty tcase. If you are a wheeler then put a 205 behind it or an Atlas to solve all the D20 problems and you can save some money.

Put a shifter boot over the shift tower and it will look like any other shifter sticking out of the middle of the tunnel.

 

[.94 OR]

Any speculation on the longevity of the D20 behind a stock 351/ZF, mostly on the street and woods roads use?

 

[1969]

Any speculation on the longevity of the D20 behind a stock 351/ZF, mostly on the street and woods roads use?

How often would it be in 4wd ? If not often and used lightly I’m sure you wouldn’t have a problem for a long time.

 

[m_m70]

mostly on the street and woods roads use?

It'll be fine.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Tire size and axle gears will matter as well. Running low axle gears is actually good for the transfer case. Less driveshaft torque for a given wheel torque.

 

[4x4man514]

i had that set up in my old bronco with no problems. but i was no rock crawler. just hunted and played in the mud. of course that was a wore out stock 302 as well. def need the body lift that tranny is tall. my new one was a major ordeal to get dropped in the hole.

i bent the zf shifter as well. easy peasy

 

[bobbiey27]

Thank you to everyone this is very helpful. My chassis will be completed in the next couple of weeks and the body goes to the shop today. This will not be a rock crawler- just a Sunday driver, or any other day for that matter. Really do appreciate all comments and any more that'll come in the future.

 

[.94 OR]

Use whatever body lift you want but unless you go 2" you will need to cut the tunnel and modify it. EZ

What modifications to the tunnel would this require with minimal body lift?

 

[nvrstuk]

With WH's upgraded output shaft you should be fine.

Torque multiplication will destroy them.

I went thru 4 cases, output shafts (until I went 300M), cluster gear teeth peeled off, thrust washers were worn out 2x. That's with a LOT of wheeling with a doubler.

You will need the output

 

[1969]

What modifications to the tunnel would this require with minimal body lift?

If you are 0” body lift you will need to raise the tunnel 2”.. if you are 1” body lift you will need to raise the tunnel 1”..

 

[TAC71]

I've had a Dana 20 behind my 203/ZF/ 393 on 35s since 1997 with zero issues. It does have the HD output shaft because that WILL break.
It's been driven everywhere and up many trails.
If you're a rough and abusive on the throttle you can break anything no matter what it is.