'72 Bronco project (Cypress, Tx)

[71 CA Bronco]

I think you need to pick the grand kids up in that Bronco, you and hubbie with a Santa and elf outfits. Throw in a bag of presents to top it off. The color just seems to blend in with Christmas well.

 

[Dne007]

Just a quick test fit of the air cleaner! oh it's awesome! waiting on the funny rectangular hose, and a 302 decal Plus need to work on the spark plug wires and make them look nice.
It's going to get cold here! gag!! lol
dne'

 

[Yeller]

Looks great!

 

[Dne007]

Hi, yeah, I'm still around We've had kids here for going on 3 weeks! Getting time to play with my bronco has really took a hit However, today I was playing with installing the

C-Bush 7 Degree Offset Bushing Kit.​

Before I wrap up installing these tomorrow, the bushings are basically the same right? only state in the rubber~ rear bottom and front top? they look so identical to the 2degrees that I removed, just don't want to make a mistake~ I hope to never have to do this again. Not that bad, just a pita
dne'

 

[Yeller]

Great when family comes and it’s great when family goes glad you got to enjoy them.

I’mno help….. I’ve never installed them, could never leave stock suspension alone long enough to change them. I just wanted to congratulate you on having the ability, time and desire to spend time with family

 

[DirtDonk]

Before I wrap up installing these tomorrow, the bushings are basically the same right?

The four sections are identical. The only thing that changes is how are you orient them based on their position in the radius arm.

The only difference between a 2°, 4° and 7° bushing is how much extra meat on one side is molded into the bushing. You should be able to see a noticeable increase in offset between a seven and a two.
A seven simply has more built-in tilt.

 

[Dne007]

Thanks DirtD I just installed them the way they were/are marked, see what happens I suppose. It'll be a couple days before I take it for a test spin. Our kids bought a 24' motorhome and it's parked in the way of course! lol

 

[Dne007]

Ok, here's an update on my 7degree c-bushings install and test drive. It's much much better! Another issue I was having was my front wheels/axle was off to the right enough to be noticeable. I have been in contact with Dirtdonk and following up here I had one hole to move for the pan hard bar and that aligned my wheels perfectly. Only issue is that it threw my pitman arm/steering gear off which gave me too much turn to the right and not enough to the left. Adjustable pan hard bars adjust from 28-30ish. I needed a 26-27. While in my search for a correct drag link, I cut mine cutting it to the correct length and welded it with strengthening tubing. It's perfect right now and steering wheel is centered. I'm confident in my welding/fab skills.
Lastly, when turning my wheels to the right, the tire tearing up the lower part of the front of the fender! grrr, I honestly don't know what to do about this other than not turn hard to the right, or buy other wheels n tires.
dne'

Pic attached is a set of personlized floor matts from Geckocustom.com with a pic of my bronco on them plus the year and mine and Garys name on em

In another pic, I fabbed up a "tire remover" using my crane. These tires are heavy for me and just need a little more help

Last pic is just back spacing, worrying that my back spacing may be off, I posted this, but I think it's ok. This was in concern of the tire eating my fender

 

[DirtDonk]

Are you sure the tire is hitting the fender and not the radius arm?
When you turn tight with practically anything but a stock size tire, they rub the radius arms with a horrible noise.
The good news is it doesn’t hurt anything.

Now to the centering of the steering wheel. That was great to modify the draglink. But something I didn’t get a chance to mention in our last message was making sure that the steering box is centered first and foremost.
If you did that, then everything else is built off of that. If not then double check that when you get a chance.
Disconnect the steering linkage and turn the steering box back-and-forth from lock to lock and then put it exactly in the center. If the steering wheel is straight at that point, then you’re in good shape.

Is that a stock steering box and Pitman Arm for your Bronco?
Later power steering boxes had a Pitman arm, pointed straight back along the frame when centered, but early ones had an offset 10° to the driver side.

 

[Dne007]

Hey Dirtd I'm sure it's rubbing/grinding the fender~ you can see by the pics, I had my husband move the Bronc as needed to take the pics. I was thinking perhaps to add additional spacer to lift, but then I had to deal with the radiator/shifter/and other. I had put a 1" body lift. or see if I can loosen the body bolts and see if I can coax it forward a tad? or look at different tires n wheels? Right now to drive, just have to drive/turn cautiously. Another thought was to reduce the forward radius arm bushings to pull the radius arms to the rear?

 

[DirtDonk]

I think reducing the radius arm bushing would lead to far too many other negative aspects.
Shifting the body is certainly an option if there’s room to move and it doesn’t create a clearance issue on the other side in doing so.
Typically the most common solutions would be either more lift, cut the fenders (the most common old-school method), or smaller tires, or narrower wheels, or more backspacing.
Each of which might come with their own set of problems, but all of which are options.

 

[Dne007]

Ok then, I'll try moving the tub, loosen all the body bolts and just see if it even will move(doubt it would be enough), but I feel second option, since I already have 1", I would order the 2" bushings. just dreading the fan, shifter, and whatever else will be affected I'd really rather not buy tires n wheels, what I have are worn, but for my purposes are just fine.

 

[DirtDonk]

I’m sure you said somewhere, but what size tires and wheels are they?

And back space is measured to the inner curve of the bead and not the outside edge.

 

[Dne007]

I'm a little depressed~ I had some true 1" spacers, the hard type. The ones I had in it were quite smushy and compressed pretty good, so with the help of my brother we installed those with a 3/8-1/2 push of the body forwardly. After several hours, ( I had other things going on as well), I backed it out and it STILL DOES IT! Not as bad, but in reverse with engine torque brings the front end down exacerbating the issue, frontwards isn't as bad, but it was just me in the drivers seat and with me and Gary, it would probably be really bad.

So, do I go ahead with the 2" body spacers?

As for the back spacing, I didn't remove the tires today, so just subtract a tad

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, a tad is sufficient for reasonable accuracy at this point.

 

[Yeller]

Adding to the lift will help but not fix it, will still rub turning into parking lots. Looks like the wheels are 10” wide. Going to 8” wide wheel might be enough to get it to clear. Me, I’d carefully trim the fender to clear and paper towel a little paint on the raw edge. If it rubs with 8” wide wheels the trimming will be less

 

[DirtDonk]

I can't remember the last time I heard of a 33x12.50 not rubbing an uncut front fender. That's part of the reason that most people with rear flares did the front as well.
Not just because it looked more complete with all four fenders cut, but because they were actually needed to keep from rubbing. Even with 3.5" of lift.
So like Yeller said, another inch might not be enough, given where you're rubbing.

Wheels with less backspacing like yours also create a problem of their own, as they travel in an arc while steering. Instead of just a plain pivoting in place motion, they travel "aarrrounnndd" the ball joints as you steer. Moving the tire further forward AND rearward as you go through the motions.
Broncos just were not made to fit 33's without some additional help.

I'm guessing the rear pinch-weld area of the fender skirts/kick panels have already been heavily trimmed? Did you do that during the build, or were they done already?
Or maybe you're one of the few that is not rubbing there even with a full panel in place?

Got pics of the trailing edge of the area around front wheel well opening?
Thanks

Paul

 

[Dne007]

Well, I didn't mention what happened on one other account in moving the tub/body forward, even the miniscule amount. I forgot about the shifter on the floor; when moving the body, it pushed the 4x4 lever in between gears? When I started the engine and put in gear, it wouldn't move~ I thought I had messed something up with the tranny, but did not. I need to push the body back to whence it came, but should be easy enough.

Paul, I'll get pics in a little while for you on what you asked, and Yeller, I'll be cutting the fender and I'll post pics of course. I just can't justify going buying new tires and wheels and not fixing anything! lol

Got to get busy~ I want to get this done
thanks guys
dne'

 

[Dne007]

Hi, I'm done with this part, another thing taken care of! Thanks all, I'll have more problems to remedy soon!!!

sorry for so many pictures and kind of out of order

I would like to put some flexy fender flares, but not sure of what brand would be good or how wide(2")

 

[Dne007]

I love my lift and the low/tall jackstands really help too!