72 Bronco Rebuild

[Big Red Dog]

Ok, so if you hit me over the head long enough eventually I get the point. DOH!

I've been kicking around a plan over the last few days. So here goes.... (sort of)

First overall thoughts... Since this will eventually be my son's truck I'm thinking mostly on-road. With that in mind I'm going to keep almost everything stock. This means rebuild the engine and tranny and stay carb.

Ok, overall I see this project as three phases.

Phase 1 - The tear down. I see this as mostly cheap with just my labor. This will take the Bronco all the way down to the frame with my intent on getting it sandblasted. I will send out the engine and tranny to have someone else rebuild for me. I will likely take care of the transfer case. Not sure what to do with the axles yet...TBD.

Phase 2 - The frame rebuild. This is all my labor replacing bushing, installing axles, engine, supports, brake/gas lines everything. I feel very good about phase 1 and 2!

Phase 3 - The bodywork. Ok this phase scares the heck out of me! In the end I going to send it out for finishing work and painting. But I need to get it "mostly" ready. So I'm thinking replacing some of the really bad parts (not patching) and having it sand blasted as well. Then replacing any additional body parts that may need it after blasting. The good news is I have expierence as a welder. You name it I can weld it! Gas (metal/braze), stick, flux-core, mig/tig, I've even used arc air systems!

So there is kind of my idea about how i'm going to move forward. As for budget. If I'm going to keep it mostly stock that should keep the costs down some. Bottom line "it is what it is" and if I run out of money the project will sit idle until I can get more. DOH! I'm hoping this will be a 2 year project and not a 10 year one!

I do have my work cut out for me! But the good news is I'm finding this VERY relaxing. I don't feel rushed like when I'm replaing the brakes on my daily driver. I wrench for a while, if I get tired I stop or if I run unto a rusted bolt I can't get free (stupid yankee bronco) I walk away and try again tomorrow. I can't believe how much I'm enjoying this! I guess what I'm saying is it doesn't feel like work. At least not yet.

 

[Big Red Dog]

Hey Explorer, While I'm totally loving the Bronco rebuild... I still can't help but wonder about that ol Mustang.... Maybe next time....

 

[Nightstick]

I feel the same way as you do, it's relaxing and at the same you have a sense of accomplishment. I know you're about done with tear down but if you haven't used it already get some PB Blaster, that stuff is great!!!

Sounds like you have a good plan, keep it up

 

[ep67bro]

Ha love the pics looks like a typical mid atlantic bronco. LOTS OF RUST!!! Well your plan sounds good and the fact you dont feel rushed is good too. The key is to keep moving on it I have found that if you do a little something on a project each week it keeps you interested. When projects sit for months or years it is reall hard to get started again and you will lose interest! Good luck.
PS BUY LOTS OF PB BLASTER FOR THOSE BOLTS!!!

 

[Big Red Dog]

Step ahead of you! I've been using PB Blaster from the beginning! And the funny thing is the hardware store didn't carry liquid wrench so I went with the blaster as a second choice! I love it!

 

[Explorer]

Hey Explorer, While I'm totally loving the Bronco rebuild... I still can't help but wonder about that ol Mustang.... Maybe next time....

Mine looked like yours this time last year. Only reason I finished in a year is I'm retired so worked everyday on it. It'll be good practice for a Mustang build. Just too old to get around this Mustang like I can the Bronco. Worked with VW's for years and swore I'd never tackle anything without a full frame again. Oh well, it won't happen again. Enjoy your build.

 

[Scoop]

OK I stopped by and checked out Big Red Dog's 72 Bronco this afternoon. Yeah, lots of rust on the tub, doors and tailgate but definately saveable. I went over to help him identify things. I was thinking 72 with auto must have some major component swaps over the years. Wrong.

Turns out it's not a 72. Gas doors and power Ford disk brakes would indicate it's definately a 77. Only thing not 77 was no inverted Y steering. Looks like a stock 302 (w/ceramic coated headers), C4 and J-shift D20. And the all stock goodies. The frame seems to have lots of surface rust but I didn't see any rot areas. Has what looks to be an old school 4 inch lift in front and blocks in the rear. Also has an aftermarket 20 or 23 gallon tank.

It will be a lot of work but doable in the timeframe with the plan he has laid out.

Cliff - good luck and keep us posted on the progress. If you need anything just let us know!

 

[Big Red Dog]

72 (77) Rebuild

Well looks like Scoop beat me to the punch! LOL Looks like it has to be a 77 for all the reason Scoop mentions. The glove box indicates it's a 72 but I guess the glove box (panel) must be from an old 72. So when I get the tub off I'll check the frame and "hope" I can still read it. The funny thing is I have a clear VA title for a 72! Now if I can actually figure out what the correct VIN is and get a correct updated title!! Imagine my joy of sitting in the DMV for hours trying to solve this issue! I guess now I know why I have power steering and power brakes!

Here are a couple pics of the gas doors. And one of a SN plate I found on the transfer case.

BTW, it was great meeting Scoop and his wife. He is a wealth of knowledge and I learned more in 30 mins with him than I have since I started!! AND to top it off I got to see his 66 live and in person!

Thanks so much Scoop for taking the time out of your day to stop by! I'll be looking to join the MAEB group!

Cheers,
BRD

 

[Explorer]

If that title matches the frame vin you better leave well enough alone. A glovebox plate can be had thru Marti Autoworks. You don't want to open a can of worms you can't close.

 

[Big Red Dog]

OK, I did some homework today and that raised more questions.

I looked up a rebuild kit for a 302 and found a bunch. Prices vary ranging from $325 to $450. I also talked to my dad's shade tree mechanic. He's going to charge $600 in labor to rebuild the engine. That's the good news, the bad news is he doesn't do transmissions. He will inspect the heads and if they need work (ground) that's an additional $150 per side. So a rebuilt engine looks to cost about $1,300 with head work. A motor head from work suggested I just buy new heads (think they are expensive have not looked them up yet) and new intake manifold (again have not checked prices).

So I'm wondering how far I should go. I want the engine block painted Ford Blue so it will need to be cleaned. Does it need to be blue printed, balanced or anything else? I did a little research into the balancing process and it's quite involved (and expensive I think). Is that something I need to worry about? I guess I figured balancing was something done to high performance race cars.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
BRD

BTW, this shade tree guys does great work. I priced a new timing belt and water pump locally for my 01 Civic and the cheapest quote was $850. He did it all for $260. Needless to say it was worth a day off and $20 in gas!

 

[G's Baja Bronco]

DUDE, do you have any wrecking yards near you? I pulled and engine and AOD trans from a 1991 cougar, it is a HO 5.0 and paid 225 dlls.

I suggest you look for an engine at a wrecking yard, they offer warranties down here.

 

[Big Red Dog]

72 (77) Rebuild

Ok, I'm back at it. My little brother got married this past weekend and I was busy with the goings on..... So I lost a week of work time and $800. Doh!

I ordered a pitman arm puller from Northern and it arrived. Just tried to remove the pitman arm and it didn't fit. First the puller would not fit around the pitman arm because it was too close to the frame. So I loosened the steering box and moved it over a tad so I could get to the arm. Then the puller turns out to be too small. I can't get it to slide over the pitman arm or around the steering box linkage (big ol rod). So I tried using a pickle fork and that failed and so did the pitman arm puller. That's two strikes. Any suggestions?

I was able to drop the drive shafts tonight. Not too difficult.

Looks like it's shopping time at Northern. I need a decent floor jack and transmission jack.

Few pics...

 

[deltarat]

Place a sledge hammer or other large hammer on one side for the pitman and strike the opposite side with another hammer. It may take several hits, but it will fall off. Leave the nut started on the threads so it doesn't fall off on you. Works on the tie rods too.

 

[G's Baja Bronco]

I have seen a pick fork like took that you hammer at the joint.

congrats on your Bro's Wedding

 

[fordtrucks4ever]

yeah the windshield is a pain. you have to drill out a lot of spotwelds

Why not just remove the hinge pin?

 

[Big Red Dog]

72 (77) Bronco Rebuild

Played around the last couple nights. Took apart a few more parts. Bailed on the pittman arm and disconnect the pittman to a steering rod. Then removed the steering box WITH pittman arm! Also removed the proportioning valve and associated brackets. Made plenty of room to remove the driverside header. Looked over the passenger side header but it is TIGHT!! Tried to remove the starter but can't reach one of the bolts.

Need to drop the transfer case but I'm worried about the weight. I need my little brother but he's on his honeymoon. Stupid little brother! It'll have to wait until next week.

The weather is getting better and it's actually nice working on the Bronco. Not looking forward to the winter months and freezing my butt off!

Still have not dropped the gas tank. Not looking forward to having it lay around the garage stinking up the place. Guess I'm a little worried about having a fire.....

Took a crack at the front two bolts holding the body on and they broke loose easily. Hoping the rest follow suit.....

 

[Big Red Dog]

72 (77) Rebuild

Did a few more small items..... Removed (cut out) the passanger side header, starter, transmission cooler lines, transmission dip stick and drained most of the transmission fluid. Found this on my gas tank. I was able to drain all of the gas out. I'm SO glad I did. There was about 11 gallons in the tank. I'm guessing I saved about 90'ish lbs or so on the weight when I go to drop the tank. Thats the good news. Bad news is I wasn't paying attention and overflowed my 5 gal gas can. Nothing like gas all over the floor!!

So I've been reading some older posts on the transfer case. I was hoping to drop that too. I'm kind of stuck. I'm waiting on my brother to get back from his honeymoon so he can give me a hand. I'm still not sure if I should drop the tranmission AND transfer case or attempt to remove the transfer case.... I was able to loosen the passanger side bolts on the transmission support bracket but can't get to the top of the driverside bolts. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[mp]

The transfer case is not too heavy. I would suggest keeping the tranny/tcase adapter mated to the transfer case when you pull it. There are 13 pills (part of the bearing) that become loose and easy to lose if you full just the t-case. Its not THAT big a deal, as you can pack it with grease on the install and keep them all in place.

You just have to be creative on stuck bolts. I ground a couple out and replaced on my projects. You are on the right track.

 

[RustyShackelfor]

for pitman arm pullers, you have to be patient and look for old (20+) pullers. I have a great one that is older than me.

Also, you are dressed awfully nice to be working on the Bronco.

 

[HGM]

Looking at your pic's and going through the same process myself, I'll give my take on your direction based on what I'm finding on my first frame off. Your plan sounds good overall, but your body is much worse than mine and mine is a huge project.. Being that you can find good tubs for under $600 from time to time, I'd definitly look for a solid tub, if it were me.. Still might even go that route if I come accross one right... The problem is that you can easily get over $600 in sheetmetal, then the actual cutting and pasting needed to replace it takes some serious time due to the spot welds.. The only issue I see with that is you've got a '77 (even the TC tag indicates that). But, it would be much easier to cut out and french in your filler doors than the rest of the work..

Now, for the engine, I'm mechanically inclined and have done engine and trans work professionally, so its not something I would pay to have done.. But, being a cheap bastard and prefering newer technology, I decided to go a different route. I stalked craigslist and finally found my donor.. I bought a complete, running '96 Exploerer (5.0l w/ 4R70) for $500.. It does need a trans overhaul, but its also a 4x2 and I'll need to go into it to convert anyhow.. Bottom line, thats my story and direction. Being that you've decided to go the stockish route, it would be much easier to simply find a '70 some donor vehicle with a running 302, maybe even with a C4.. That shouldnt be tough for less than $800.. You could do some lipstick work to it as you go and if needed at a later date, have it built..

Good luck with it, looking forward to your progress, keeps me motivated..