74 EB Sandrunner under development

[Flash69]

You sure keep a tidy lookin workspace. The EBs looking good.

 

[sstlaure]

You sure keep a tidy lookin workspace. The EBs looking good.

Thanks. I can't stand rolling around in metal shavings & I've hurt myself before tripping over miscellaneous stuff...I try to clean up each night, mainly so that my 2 year old doesn't get filthy playing in dad's "Monster Bronco Truck" as he calls it.

It's nice to be making progress on it again. Looks like I secured a paint booth to use this winter, so things are looking up to have this sucker ready for next year.;D

 

[ZookBronc]

Hey Scott, im curious are you going to add more bracing to the drop bracket area on the radius arms?

 

[sstlaure]

Yes, there will be a tube running from the bottom of the bracket (where the curved tube and the vertical tube meet) up to the frame. It runs up into an area I already have a cage tie-in brace, so all of the loads will go into a tight cross-section. The frame is ending up braced on at least 2 sides everywhere.

Basically draw a line from the bottom of the radius arm brackets @ the rear of the tube structure up to the bottom of the frame @ the front leaf spring hanger.

I'm also going to run a brace from the middle tie-in (under the seats) forward to meet the outside of the frame inline with the radius arm mounts. So the frame will be braced on 3 sides there.

It will definitely be strong enough to withstand the punishment I'm going to put this thing through, and I'm not going to be kind to it, no matter how nice it turns out.

 

[ZookBronc]

What color are you thinking for the truck?

 

[sstlaure]

What color are you thinking for the truck?

House of Kolors Ultra Orange Pearl....Everything (frame, axles, cage, etc) that color except the leaf springs which will be black.

I already painted the column to see if I liked the color. It's going to be bright as hell.

 

[ZookBronc]

That will look sweet. People will definately see you coming if they dont hear you first.

 

[sstlaure]

Now that the radius arms are attached, I squared up the front end (moved a little when I put the brackets in, but adjustable with the heims.) and I can now cycle the suspension.

Pics:
1&2)Driver and Pass radius arms at full compressed

3) Track bar clearance @ full comp (3/8") It will never go past that with the airbumps installed, so I'm not worried about the tight clearance.

4) full compression (5" clearance all the way around new 33x12.5's, which means I'd have a full 3" clearance all the way around with 37" tires. )

 

[68ford]

looks good man! except those fenders are horrible;D . one thing i would seriously change, actually i know you should change,is the trackbar. make some kinda bracket to mount it out more by the knuckle, so its as long as possible, mines stock mounts like yours and with 13in travel, it moves an inch and a half side to side, no bueno. plus the side to side makes for tight shock clearance with the frame rails depending on where you mount your shocks.

 

[sstlaure]

thanks...steering is going over to the knuckle, so the track bar may go that way with it, not sure. I'm keeping them parallel and as close to equal length as possible to minimize bump steer.

I'm not sure how much less side to side travel I'd be able to get by moving the track bar over. With the radius arms I have, I can only move the axle track bar bracket over another 2" vs the 24" or so length. It may reduce side to side movement by a fraction of an inch. For what I'm doing with it, I don't think the extra effort would be worth the benefit.

Do you have any front driveshaft bind at full droop?

 

[sstlaure]

Here are some more pics of the suspension articulated and fully drooped out. (13" travel...my jack wouldn't go down any further.) With the shocks I have and where I'm mounting them, I should be able to get 14" travel front. I think driveshaft bind is going to determine where droop stops. Also a pic of the shocks ready to go...

 

[68ford]

thanks...steering is going over to the knuckle, so the track bar may go that way with it, not sure. I'm keeping them parallel and as close to equal length as possible to minimize bump steer.

I'm not sure how much less side to side travel I'd be able to get by moving the track bar over. With the radius arms I have, I can only move the axle track bar bracket over another 2" vs the 24" or so length. It may reduce side to side movement by a fraction of an inch. For what I'm doing with it, I don't think the extra effort would be worth the benefit.

Do you have any front driveshaft bind at full droop?

yeah i have to limit droop substantially because of the driveshaft/pinion angle. full width/highpinion axle should fix the problem. the big problem with side to side movement isnt bumpsteer, but the anlge of the radius arms changing, when the axle moves side to side the axle is not straight due to the radius arms angles changing. if i really get on it on the freeway the truck will turn to the left then turn back to the right if i let off, but it has zero bumpteer ever. blitzkrieg motorsports did a coil over conversion on an old blazer that got 16in travel with only 1/2 in side to side movement, thats what im shooting for.

 

[toddz69]

the big problem with side to side movement isnt bumpsteer, but the anlge of the radius arms changing, when the axle moves side to side the axle is not straight due to the radius arms angles changing. if i really get on it on the freeway the truck will turn to the left then turn back to the right if i let off, but it has zero bumpteer ever.

Could you elaborate on this a little more? I'm having a hard time visualizing what you're talking about. The radius arm angles changing relative to what?

Todd Z.

 

[73stallion]

the track bar is not parallel to the axle, so when the axle goes up and down it also goes side to side. the radius arms also go side to side so the axle doesn't stay pointed perfectly straight as they shift.

i bet that's what i'm also feeling since i put the softer shocks on.

 

[sstlaure]

Worked on the front bumper this weekend. it just didn't look finished without a hoop.

I'm planning on running a sway bar in the front (not on the rear), we were looking at the trackbar/steering tonight. I think we're just going to make some custom steering/tie-rods with heims and high mis-alignment bushings and leave the track bar where it is. I won't be doing that much street driving that I'm going to worry about it. Thanks for the head's up though, gives me something to think about.

The only way I can see the axle being not straight under acceleration/braking is if the suspension is articulated.

 

[toddz69]

the track bar is not parallel to the axle, so when the axle goes up and down it also goes side to side. the radius arms also go side to side so the axle doesn't stay pointed perfectly straight as they shift.

Yeah, I understand that part. I thought there was more to it than that based on the initial description of it.

Todd Z.

 

[sstlaure]

Took the bumper off to finish up the last of the welding on the hoop and added the dune flag tab

 

[68ford]

Yeah, I understand that part. I thought there was more to it than that based on the initial description of it.

Todd Z.

its because the radius arms both point outward,not parrallel to the frame, as the axale goes to the left the left radius arm becomes more angled(pulls the axle back to the rear). and the right radius arms points more straight which pushes the axle forward on that side. basically the axle is only perpendicular the the frame rails at on height up or down from there its off.

 

[toddz69]

its because the radius arms both point outward,not parrallel to the frame, as the axale goes to the left the left radius arm becomes more angled(pulls the axle back to the rear). and the right radius arms points more straight which pushes the axle forward on that side. basically the axle is only perpendicular the the frame rails at on height up or down from there its off.

10-4 on that.

Todd Z.

 

[sstlaure]

10-4 on that.

Todd Z.

I see as well.