A tie-rod-over question - ream from top, what to do about bottom?

[joshd1971bronco]

All,

I did a search and surprisingly didn't turn up much. I have a '76 with the stock "Y" style linkage. I want to convert to a "T" style linkage. I have found a vendor (WH) that makes custom 3 way adjustable T-style linkage that is a bolt-on replacement for the Y-style - it fits the tapers in the knuckles and in the pitman arm.

Of course, I want to run a tie-rod-over setup so I need to ream out the top of the knuckles with a tapered reamer. The guy I talked to on the phone said that I needed to buy the tapered F-150 sleeves to insert into the BOTTOM of the knuckle after I ream out the top of the knuckle. This doesn't make complete sense to me. I realize that the bottom of the knuckle will now be tapered along with the top, but I don't see how inserting the F-150 sleeves fixes this.

Any insight or help on what to do about the BOTTOM of the existing knuckles is appreciated.

(Also, any input on whether there are any CONS to doing a TRO conversion is appreciated as well - I have a trac bar riser bracket and stock pitman arm, 3.5 inch susp lift)

 

[mudstud]

You will need these and if you are using a stock replacement you will need these too and they are installed from the top. The first set can be used with an F-150 tie-rod. The second set is used with a stock tie-rod. You have to use both if you are going to use a stock setup. You can even use the Chevy one-ton setup without the bushings. I did an F-150 conversion. I have pictures in my gallery. That should be clear as mud!

 

[JohnJohn]

I have a 77 with the same setup and did the tro with the BC Bronco hemi linkage. The 76 and 77 has more meat in the knucke and you can ream from the top them bolt up and go. No need to drill and install the inserts. This was the advise i got from Chuck at BC and he knows alot more than i do.
I am very happy with my set up. The early pre 76 drum style need to run the inserts from what i was told.

 

[joshd1971bronco]

Something I didn't mention earlier which might help out, this bronco will spend 80% of it's time on the road or very mild off road and the remaining time doing some light wheeling - not extreme rock crawling. So I definitely want a street friendly setup.

I had heard that the heim joint setups while extremely strong are a little harsh to drive and wear out parts a little more quickly and of course are greasable / maintainable.

That's why I was considering a true tie-rod style TRO conversion. Am I just way out in left field here.

Also, if someone has a link to an earlier post about this (I know I'm not the first) I'd read it. I have used the search function and can't find ANYTHING with "TRO" or "tie rod over" as the search words. Wierd.

 

[ET]

I'm with you on why they told you to install the bushing on the bottom other then he misunderstood you wanting to go tro.

Eugene

 

[Dude seriously]

I've got a 76 and did the TRO with the heims. I reamed the knuckles from the top and the pitman arm from the bottom. The knuckles were easy to do on the rig, just go slow and use lots of oil while cutting. The pitman arm took a bit more precision, I would recommend pulling it off and reaming it on a drill press or Bridgeport for more control.

I used BC Bronco's tapered heim studs to bolt the heims too, it works very well. The picture taken below shows that you will need to raise the trac-bar mount at the axle to get things back to parallel. The tie rod will also contact the trac-bar mount bolt at full lock if you don’t. Overall, I am very happy with the setup and would do it again if I woke up and found that silly inverted Y snuck back on my rig.

The heims are a bit smaller in diameter than the TRE as well which helps with the wheel backspace squeeze on the 76/77 knuckles.