Aftermarket ignition problems? Help

[Viperwolf1]

Another question though:

Isn't the resistor wire typically between the switch and connector in the engine compartment? I'm getting batt voltage in "run" at the engine connector but only 5ish at the coil. This seems to indicate the resistor wire is the red/green section from firewall to coil (which would screw up the full voltage starting provision, yes?....though I haven't had starting problems). I have a '73 pretty much all original, would this be a normal possibility? Also, the connector is toast...anyone know where to get a new factory type connector?

The reistor wire is under the dash near the switch. You should get full voltage when the switch is in the START position. The brown wire from the starter solenoid I terminal is connected directly to the red-green wire to supply full voltage, but only when the starter is engaged.
Try napa for the connector.

 

[Explorer]

Maybe I got lost in this thread but here is what I would do.
I would not throw parts at it or add parts or change parts the I have no idea what they are for.

Disconnect the connector power connector from the module on the fender.
Disconnect the Starter wire.

Here is a drawing:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/DurasparkII.html

Get a volt meter.

turn the key to and hold in the start position.
the volt meter should read battery voltage or close to it.

turn the key to run position:
The red wire will now read battery voltage or close to it.

Find the Batt side of the coil.
Read the voltage again in the start & run position.

report you findings.

Just wired a Centech harness w/Duraspark and had to put the ballast resistor in. Used a 1.5 ohm. As stated, it needs 12v to start and mine drops to about 9 volt in run position, but my batt is a little weak. Constant 12v will toast the coil. Here is the diagram in quote. Also my coil was out of limits by the Autozone repair guide. I thought it was close enough, but changed it anyway and fired right up.

 

[Swaayze]

The reistor wire is under the dash near the switch. You should get full voltage when the switch is in the START position. The brown wire from the starter solenoid I terminal is connected directly to the red-green wire to supply full voltage, but only when the starter is engaged.
Try napa for the connector.

Thanks, that's what I thought, but mine is apparently not that way. Key in "run", engine off, I have batt voltage (11.xx) at the engine compartment connector and about 5v at the coil with only a stretch of red/gr wire in between (which isolated has about 1.5-2.0 ohms resistance). Voltage is low for start too (8-10v cranking). Voltage at coil goes to approx. 10v engine running which seems perfect for my Pertronix ignitor (8-16v spec). I have an Accel SuperCoil (140001) showing 0.9 bench primary resistance (spec is 0.7 and some info I've read indicates this would be a bad coil). Truck runs ok for a while then starts sputtering and dies, followed by a restart a few minutes later, then the process repeats.

I've read for hours on this subject and I'm not sure I'm not more confused on my specific issue. Though I now have a pretty good grasp on "how do it work". Troubleshooting skills need development I guess.....I think I'm gonna replace the coil and see if that helps.


Thanks

 

[jspurl3]

Ok so I changed the fusible link and added the resistor; however, I still have no power, for anything... I feel I have a short somewhere but cant find it. Any suggestions?? thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

Swaayze, it sounds like you have a bum wire or connector somewhere in that section of Green w/red coil wire. Your original resistor wire could certainly have been bypassed by a PO, or it could have failed. Or, more likely, you're just getting the full voltage reading (between the key and the firewall) with your meter because you're not putting any real load on it so it's not heating up and reducing the resistance. You should be able to achieve a full batt voltage reading even on a resistor wire if there's no real load on it.
That's what I believe anyway, I think Viperwolf had talked about that at one time, so he might have some insight for you in this regard.

Showing resistance between the connector and the coil just doesn't sound right. Try running a jumper wire straight from the connector, or battery, to the coil.
And try disconnecting any radio noise supressors that are still hooked to the coil's positive side. If you have one and it's going bad you could be losing some power through it.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[Viperwolf1]

Ok so I changed the fusible link and added the resistor; however, I still have no power, for anything... I feel I have a short somewhere but cant find it. Any suggestions?? thanks

Ok. I'm getting confused. When you say you have no power for anything what does that mean? No power in ignition circuit, headlights, radio and heater? If you clearly state all the symtoms it's easier to narrow down the problem.

 

[VBH289]

It sounds like he has no power to the dizzy- and after replacing everything on the positive side of it, I would start checking the negative side. Check all your connections on your starter solenoid, then start chasing grounds....

BTW, what makes you say you have no fire? Did you pull a plug and check or are you checking right off the coil?

 

[ransil]

Maybe I got lost in this thread but here is what I would do.
I would not throw parts at it or add parts or change parts the I have no idea what they are for.

Disconnect the connector power connector from the module on the fender.
Disconnect the Starter wire.

Here is a drawing:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/DurasparkII.html

Get a volt meter.

turn the key to and hold in the start position.
the volt meter should read battery voltage or close to it.

turn the key to run position:
The red wire will now read battery voltage or close to it.

Find the Batt side of the coil.
Read the voltage again in the start & run position.

report you findings.

Did you do any of this??

 

[jspurl3]

Sorry Viperwolf, No power meaning headlights, brakelights, ignition, anything.

I didnt pull anything. Just when I try to use anything its all dead, and the battery is fine. I will start checking grounds again. thanks

Ransil is that post for me or Swaayze? Sorry this thread got a little confusing when two different issues were brought up... thanks

 

[Viperwolf1]

Ok. No sense in even looking at the ignition system until the power is fixed. Check both ends of the battery cables. Corrosion or loose nuts/bolts will stop current flow. Also follow the black-red wire from the battery side of starter solenoid back through the firewall. The connector at the firewall usually gets pretty nasty and causes problems like this.

Did you replace the fusible link I mentioned earlier?

 

[jspurl3]

Ok. No sense in even looking at the ignition system until the power is fixed. Check both ends of the battery cables. Corrosion or loose nuts/bolts will stop current flow. Also follow the black-red wire from the battery side of starter solenoid back through the firewall. The connector at the firewall usually gets pretty nasty and causes problems like this.

Did you replace the fusible link I mentioned earlier?

I will check that wire. it had a curcuit breaker on the loop. I replaced it with a new one.