AN fittings

[Broncobowsher]

"I'm Not A CROOK" comes to mind... lol

James- it's all marketing. Hoses are labeled "trans hose" or "pwr strg hose" for marketing purposes- in the auto field anyway. NOT A SINGLE guy walking into Auto Zone is going to know he needs a "SP 560-39DL" hose for use in his particular application. But the marketing guys at AutoZone know that the specs on "that hose" qualify it for use in those applications.

That's why hoses in Auto stores are labeled that way- not the way you and others in the industry do.

I've walked into a parts store and asked for a couple feet of transmission cooler hose. The parts guy cuts off a couple feet of fuel hose and hands it to me. We got into a discussion about that is the wrong hose, not what I asked for. The manager comes in and agrees with me. Shows the parts monkey the other roll of hose and explains the difference. I left with the correct hose. Not all parts stores are that good. Some flat out don't even have the trans cooler hose and will only sell fuel hose telling the customer that is what we sell for that application.

 

[nvrstuk]

Yup, always lots of examples of clueless parts guys who are asking you when you request 2' of tranny hose if you're car has AC or not!!
That's marketing also-not having to stock more inventory, helps keep costs down.

 

[jamesroney]

James- it's all marketing. Hoses are labeled "trans hose" or "pwr strg hose" for marketing purposes- in the auto field anyway. NOT A SINGLE guy walking into Auto Zone is going to know he needs a "SP 560-39DL" hose for use in his particular application. But the marketing guys at AutoZone know that the specs on "that hose" qualify it for use in those applications.

That's why hoses in Auto stores are labeled that way- not the way you and others in the industry do.

You are killing me...

Yes, I understand that you can buy power steering hose from Autozone. And I know that it is labeled and printed with the name "P/S return" I have a brand new Edelmann 70551 in my garage. I opened the package and took pics just for you. That hose costs $16.99 at Autozone for 3 feet of hose, = $5.66 per foot. It says "032222F-2" and "AIT 3219" and "3/8 - 9.65mm ID"

BUT AIT 3219 is the designator for a Gates Rubber Industrial hose meeting SAE J-2076 CT

Which happens to be the Gates Industrial Hose #350010 which you can buy in bulk on Amazon for $40.78 for 25 feet, or $1.63 per foot. EXACT SAME HOSE!
Continental also makes a J2076 hose.

J-2076 gets you a hose that can handle 175 psi working, and -40 to 300 degree temperature. On a 3/8 ID hose, it has a 5/8 OD.

So YES. If I go to Autozone, I ask for a "Duralast 70551" and they give me 3 feet of PS hose.
If I go to Summit, I buy 25 feet of Gates 350010.
And if I go to Hoses Unlimited Industrial, and buy a spool, I tell them I need SAE J-2076. (actually, they would normally recommend a slightly higher spec hose, with a lower cost.) And I would get it for about $.50/ft.

 

[nvrstuk]

All I'm saying is the parts store doesn't care. Industrial supply stores do.
It's about marketing-they have no demand for 5 very specific types of hoses like you're quoting-they dont care and can't afford it so they sell a "once size fits all" hose.
All I'm saying.

 

[CopperBronco]

All I'm saying is the parts store doesn't care. Industrial supply stores do.
It's about marketing-they have no demand for 5 very specific types of hoses like you're quoting-they dont care and can't afford it so they sell a "once size fits all" hose.
All I'm saying.

Back to the topic, I’ve had a small ripple… my radiator coolant plug put in my parts store appears to have been cross threaded… I pulled it out to put in a zinc anode. Do I just re-thread the hole a bit larger and go get a larger anode?

Also, my 1/8” NPT TO 6 AN fittings snapped inside the NPT side… I was told torque on those was 12-16 ft lbs, was only at 14 ft/lbs and snapped right off… whoops… it’s so thin in there, can I use a screw extractor to get it out? Or any recommendations?

First time I’ve had something cross thread and first time had a fitting snap flush with the threads… good fun!

 

[CopperBronco]

Back to the topic, I’ve had a small ripple… my radiator coolant plug put in my parts store appears to have been cross threaded… I pulled it out to put in a zinc anode. Do I just re-thread the hole a bit larger and go get a larger anode?

Also, my 1/8” NPT TO 6 AN fittings snapped inside the NPT side… I was told torque on those was 12-16 ft lbs, was only at 14 ft/lbs and snapped right off… whoops… it’s so thin in there, can I use a screw extractor to get it out? Or any recommendations?

First time I’ve had something cross thread and first time had a fitting snap flush with the threads… good fun!

K, extractor for the AN fitting out, had to be so gentle, but got it to go without cracking the fitting in there.

Still would love advice on cross thread… tap it at same size and just clean it up? And how do I avoid getting metal bits in my radiator? Or just pour bunch of water through top and let it drain out?

 

[nvrstuk]

Glad the first fix worked. I don't want to recommend any threading or cross without actually being able to see the part but the flush the bits & pcs out from up above and you 'll be fine. The problem with just sticking a tap in to clean the threads is will the threads "match" when you start chasing new threads in to the old threads.?

Sounds like a real mess.

 

[CopperBronco]

Glad the first fix worked. I don't want to recommend any threading or cross without actually being able to see the part but the flush the bits & pcs out from up above and you 'll be fine. The problem with just sticking a tap in to clean the threads is will the threads "match" when you start chasing new threads in to the old threads.?

Sounds like a real mess.

I got the AN fitting out, but my aluminum female thread for draining radiator is cross threaded… any advice? It’s the first photo above.

I also thought I could easily make this worse since it’s aluminum… should I just put some anti seize and Teflon tape around zinc anode and force it back in and just hope it holds?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Teflon paste would be better for the anode. The tape can make an insulation layer.

 

[CopperBronco]

Teflon paste would be better for the anode. The tape can make an insulation layer.

Would you re-tap the hole, or just not bother? Long term I worry it will just get worse each time I drain or replace anode…

 

[nvrstuk]

Without really being able to see ALL the threads inside the hole IF I chased the threads and it sealed I would probably never use the hole again. Pull the hose to drain it and buy a radiator cap that hangs the sacrificial anode from the cap. Both potential problems in the future solved and you wouldn't have to have someone TIG a patch over the existing plug hole.

I won't try to tell you what might or might not work and then potentially ruin your radiator. It will be your call. Try chasing the threads and if it doesn't seal then tig a patch over it with new threads but that's the last resort.

Hope it works out for ya.

 

[CopperBronco]

Without really being able to see ALL the threads inside the hole IF I chased the threads and it sealed I would probably never use the hole again. Pull the hose to drain it and buy a radiator cap that hangs the sacrificial anode from the cap. Both potential problems in the future solved and you wouldn't have to have someone TIG a patch over the existing plug hole.

I won't try to tell you what might or might not work and then potentially ruin your radiator. It will be your call. Try chasing the threads and if it doesn't seal then tig a patch over it with new threads but that's the last resort.

Hope it works out for ya.

Thanks for this… gonna have to decide… radiator should have come with brass reducer in it like my trans cooler line fittings on the radiator… do they make 1/4” NPT helicoils or thread repair kits? I don’t see much in way of NPT.

Could have shop tig fill hole and retap?
Retap 1/4” NPT… see if it helps?
Look into 1/4 to 1/8 hex reducer, and glue/seal the crap out of 1/4 side… then I’d have brass to brass fitting always instead of brass to aluminum trying to reuse all the time…but will 1/8 zinc anode be enough?

 

[nvrstuk]

I run an anode off my rad cap.

 

[lars]

I'd say that as long as you can get the tap to start into the remaining threads, run the tap in a little deeper. It's taper pipe, so you can cut fresh threads. Been there, done that. Be sure to use tapping fluid. For tapping in aluminum, I'm a fan of Tap Magic Aluminum, though anything is better than nothing. And what broncobowsher said about teflon paste rather than tape. This, for example.

 

[CopperBronco]

I'd say that as long as you can get the tap to start into the remaining threads, run the tap in a little deeper. It's taper pipe, so you can cut fresh threads. Been there, done that. Be sure to use tapping fluid. For tapping in aluminum, I'm a fan of Tap Magic Aluminum, though anything is better than nothing. And what broncobowsher said about teflon paste rather than tape. This, for example.

How did I not think of this! Just runs 1/4” NPT tap in a bit deeper… I will try this first… would really love a brass fitting in there more permanently… but possibly too cost prohibitive… only if I were a TIG welder, one day.

 

[jamesroney]

How did I not think of this! Just runs 1/4” NPT tap in a bit deeper… I will try this first… would really love a brass fitting in there more permanently… but possibly too cost prohibitive… only if I were a TIG welder, one day.

You are playing with fire here. You are only going to get about 1 more chance on that threaded bung, so whatever you do...do it right, and stop fiddling with it.

If it were mine, I'm 100% with @nvrstuk I would run the anode in the cap. I hate finding secret crap like that in some obscure location that someone installed 5 years ago, and forgot.

I would take a 1/4 pipe tap, and see how much thread I can get into that bung before I run out of tap. Then get a brass pipe plug with a socket hex and run it deep. The socket head plug will allow you to tighten it even if it is deep in the hole. There are a couple of different height brass socket hex plugs. Get the tall one. Then don't ever take it out or touch it again. I don't ever run a drain in my radiator. If I need to drain it, I just pull the lower hose. If it needs draining, it's probably coming out anyway.

If that doesn't work, I would go the next standard size and drill it smooth, and thread it with straight threads, countersink the bung, and install an o-ringed stainless plug. And then make sure no one ever touches it again.

 

[CopperBronco]

NPT tap worked! Going to put a 1/4” male to 1/8” female NPT hex reducer in there with some JB waterweld… make that permanent and just put in a 1/8” NPT zinc anode. Hoping it works… can avoid aluminum to brass going in and out in the future.

 

[lars]

I love my expen$ive brass radiator. In which, like James, I installed a plug instead of a drain petcock (there, I got to use that word). When I need to drain it, off comes the lower hose. Which is messier but way faster.

 

[nvrstuk]

.03 more cents... lol

I plugged my lower drain/peacock with the intention of never using it but after pulling the radiator two more times I installed a peacock & now use it to drain since pulling the lwr hose on the DS with the much larger radiator and strg box jammed against the grill.

It just makes it easier & I don't get nearly as wet!

 

[CopperBronco]

.03 more cents... lol

I plugged my lower drain/peacock with the intention of never using it but after pulling the radiator two more times I installed a peacock & now use it to drain since pulling the lwr hose on the DS with the much larger radiator and strg box jammed against the grill.

It just makes it easier & I don't get nearly as wet!

Yeah I’m hoping the NPT reducer I sealed int will not leak… and found 1/8” anodes online… can just pull anode and it will drain, now brass to brass… no more risk of cross threading the aluminum.