Another beat to death topic.......Disk Brakes

[Nathan43]

Before I start please excuse my young inexperience, and the inherited will to save money but at the same time live by "You get what you pay for."

Now I have a 74 that has at one point had a power brake booster added to it, and I'm wanting to add disk brakes. After searching quite a bit it seems you can use the 78-79 full size Bronco/ 76-79 truck parts or a chevy setup. I personally don't want to do the chevy way, which finally leads me to my question that I haven't found the answer to. "A couple Q's more will tag along too."

1.What is preventing me from just ordering the assorted disk brake parts for a 76-77 bronco when they were an option for those?

2.I'm wanting to do both front and rear disk so what will I need as far as the master cylinder, will I have to get a different one?

3.Can someone make a general parts list for the front and rear separately, as the lists I've been able to find all varied on a few parts and made it kind of confusing?

Greatly appreciated!

 

[Jeremy0201]

http://www.emotoman.com/disc/discbrake1.htm

 

[JSmall]

Here is a list of parts I purchased for my rear swap.

 

[Jeremy0201]

http://classicbroncos.com/disc-list.shtml

 

[Timmy390]

1.What is preventing me from just ordering the assorted disk brake parts for a 76-77 bronco when they were an option for those?

Nothing....however I don't think the caliper mounting bracket is reproduced. It doesn't show up in the available parts at Oreilly's. I bought 78/79 parts off eBay. Look for used knuckles and caliper mounting plates only. The rest you can buy at the local parts store. Got all my stuff at Advance.

2.I'm wanting to do both front and rear disk so what will I need as far as the master cylinder, will I have to get a different one?

My suggestion is keep the rears drums. With power disks on the front, I damn near go through the windshield if I hit them hard. I'm running 32's. If you go disk/drum, you can keep the stock 74 master and H -Block. Just remove the RPV (residual pressure valve) from the port feeding the front disks and your all good. That's what I'm running. In fact, most new masters come without an RVP in them even if it's for drum brakes. The last one I bought didn't have them.

3.Can someone make a general parts list for the front and rear separately, as the lists I've been able to find all varied on a few parts and made it kind of confusing?

I bought knuckles out off a 78/79 Bronco.
Reused the lock out hubs, master, and H-Block
Used Break hoses off a 76 F100
Tie rod end bushings from Wild Horse
Napa Prem ball joints
Stock tie rods

Tim

 

[surfer-b]

My suggestion is keep the rears drums. With power disks on the front, I damn near go through the windshield if I hit them hard. I'm running 32's. If you go disk/drum, you can keep the stock 74 master and H -Block. Just remove the RPV (residual pressure valve) from the port feeding the front disks and your all good. That's what I'm running. In fact, most new masters come without an RVP in them even if it's for drum brakes. The last one I bought didn't have them.

I agree with this, unless you are just really set on the rear disc you will have no prob stopping with the PWR disc/drum setup.

 

[boogie]

Im thinking about ordering these http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/16466

 

[StnePny]

Chevy Disc set - cheap work very well and easy to put on than 76/77

If you want 1 step up go with T-bird Calipers

I you must go rear disc. Good thing you havery a '74 (-'75), 2nd Gen Explorer is pretty much bolt on ( you will have to drill the rotor to
5 X 5 1/2).
This and the Chevy DB are pretty easy.

I have both on my Bronco

My $.02 this would be best bang for your buck or the (High) dollar Wildwood setups

 

[Nathan43]

Nothing....however I don't think the caliper mounting bracket is reproduced. It doesn't show up in the available parts at Oreilly's. I bought 78/79 parts off eBay. Look for used knuckles and caliper mounting plates only. The rest you can buy at the local parts store. Got all my stuff at Advance.

Boy I couldn't ask for better help! Thanks. I may just keep the rear drums.
One last question why would I need the knuckles as stated above by Timmy?

 

[thegreatjustino]

Chevy Disc set - cheap work very well and easy to put on than 76/77

If you want 1 step up go with T-bird Calipers

T-Bird calipers won't work with the Chevy conversion

 

[jmangi62]

Right now I have the drum D30 Brakes with my power booster,master cyl, and pro valve for my D44 I plan on using (eventually) and it will put me thru the windshield if not careful LOL

 

[Timmy390]

Boy I couldn't ask for better help! Thanks. I may just keep the rear drums.
One last question why would I need the knuckles as stated above by Timmy?

Ford disk knuckles are different than the ford drum knuckles. Off the top of my head I don't recall what the differences are but you need the disk knuckles with the Ford Conversion. I think (someone will correct me if I'm wrong) you can use the drum knuckles with the Chevy conversion.

I went all Ford.....

Tim

 

[akafrankcastle]

Ford disk knuckles are different than the ford drum knuckles. Off the top of my head I don't recall what the differences are but you need the disk knuckles with the Ford Conversion. I think (someone will correct me if I'm wrong) you can use the drum knuckles with the Chevy conversion.



I went all Ford.....



Tim

Correct. The Ford drum and Chevy disc knuckles both utilize a 6 bolt spindle to attach to the knuckle. The Ford disc knuckle uses a 5 bolt spindle. The spindles are nearly identical otherwise.

So, you can keep your Ford drum knuckle with the Chevy disc parts.

 

[Pa PITT]

.. As Normal I get to the party late. But the Chevy conversion is the best. Some will disagree but . I disagree with them.. I ran a parts store for about 30 years. I had lotsof defective Ford rebuilt Calipers.. No Chebys .
.. With the Cheby swap you don't change the Knuckles you use your ford ones.
... So my list is
no.5492 hub & rotor ass. these are 1980 up & they come with the inner races installed so you only need the bearings. But most of the time the Set bearings are cheaper than the bearing only. Set 37 7 Set 35. and seal 4250S... and THEN spindle bearing kit SBK1. I say get this one from NAPA theirs has 4 pieces .. OTHERS only have 3 items in the kit. Yes & just use the cheapest D52 SHOES.
.. I'm sorry but I say the only years spindles that work are 1973 1/2 & 74 .4x4 1/2 ton pickup or Blazer. Dana spindle no is 706528X. ..
... Calipers are 18-4123 & 18-4122 A1 Cardon ..
.. Sorry I say use your stock 1973 Master Cylinder .. Don't buy a pro-partition valve. Don't waste your money. Keep the STOCK H valve ..
.. Caliper hoses use the stock chevy 4x4 1974 hoses .
... And I forgot the bracket that holds the Calipers .. I saytry & finde the 73 & 74 chevy bracket . But the 75 ups will work . later models have a piece of sheet metal as a Dust cover.. Earlier are a big old cool thick plate.

 

[Pa PITT]

.. You can search my post I've posted this up a hundred times. But just a several days ago I POSTED up a good list .
.. This one has all been from memory .. About a week or 2 ago I had a good list of all of it.... Sorry but I SAY ABOUT HALF OF WHATS BEEN POSTED ABOVE IS NOT TOTALLY CORRECT. .. as the later model spindles have to be turned down.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I will also go with stock master and skip the proportioning valve. There are so many variables in a Bronco braking system that a one size fits all package doesn't fly. You need to get the brakes installed and try them. If there is a balance issue, that's when you can start adding extra parts.

I've done a few disk brake conversions. Some were real nice as-is, some needed a little proportioning to dial the back down.

 

[sykanr0ng]

I'm going to disagree with those recommending the Chevy disc conversion.

The Chevy knuckles and spindles like the early Ford drum knuckles have a hole through them smaller than the later Ford.
This means that the larger and much stronger shaft U-joints barely fit, if one breaks and the end of the shaft spreads you will be disassembling the side from the knuckle out, probably while you are on the trail.

 

[akafrankcastle]

...as the later model spindles have to be turned down.

A very good point. I think this is what makes a lot of people hesitant about doing the GM swap; trying to find the right year to pull parts from. I was guilty of it myself. Wound up pulling stuff from a late 77 only to get home and be half way through the swap before I figured it out. That's also why, if I am hunting additional GM swap parts, I just stick to 73-76 as there is no second guessing whether or not it meets the cut off for manufacturing.

 

[akafrankcastle]

I'm going to disagree with those recommending the Chevy disc conversion.

The Chevy knuckles and spindles like the early Ford drum knuckles have a hole through them smaller than the later Ford.
This means that the larger and much stronger shaft U-joints barely fit, if one breaks and the end of the shaft spreads you will be disassembling the side from the knuckle out, probably while you are on the trail.

This is assuming, of course, that the OP is planning to be out hitting trails or conducting activities likely to break a U-joint. But no less a valid point.

If economy and ease of install are the desired end state, I still vote for GM swap. There will be no potential interference issues if aftermarket wheels are currently installed and no need to swap out or modify existing steering linkages.

 

[ntsqd]

If you're working the truck hard enough that broken steering joints are a major concern then I contend that you should be looking for the best price on some Crane etc. 'C's and gathering up D60 outer parts.

Only advantage that I see in the Ford swap is IF you go with the rare bigger piston T-bird calipers, and I'm not convinced that they're absolutely necessary. And they will mess with the pedal feel, so you could be opening up a can of worms there.