Another Lift Question!

[BigBlueBronco71]

So since getting my ride up and running and throwing it around on the dunes it seems I really need some more travel and height. I have decided on 33X12.50-15 tires and am looking at either a 3.5in suspension lift or 2.5in lift w/ 1in body lift. My plan is to be able to drive to the trail, do some moderate wheeling, then drive home. So I would like to be able to cruise down the freeway at 65 and have decent street manners as well as a comfortable and capable offroad set up. I have a few questions for you guys,

1. Will 3.5in lift with 33s give me enough travel w/o rubbing with full articulation? (Both front and back will be cut moderately)

2. In your opinion is 2.5 suspension 1 body better or straight 3.5 suspension a better bet for my needs? (I understand the more lift the more you're messing with steering angles and driveshafts etc. I'm interested in if 2.5 is enough travel or not)

3. Which vendors lift will be the best fit/ How does yours ride?

Thanks in advance, let me know if you need more info

 

[savage]

I have WH 3.5 inch and really pleased with the ride. My bronco came with a rancho 3 inch already on it so going to the 3.5 was a easy swap. At highway speed it handle very well, but I notice reading about lifts ,it seems each bronco handle's different with the same lift. I running 33x12.50 x15 on 8inch rims.

 

[broncnaz]

2.5 suspension and 1in body would be a little better especailly for dune running and it helps on the street. Basically you want to keep the center of gravity as low as possible. So lower suspesnsion lifts help with that then you gain a little more clearance with the body lift. a 2.5in lift can work fine with 33's and no rubbing if you get the bumpstops for the lift you have. Like you know the lower lift less possible alginment issues.
For moderate wheeling you really dont have to worry much about getting max articulation with your tire size and either lift you'll have enough.
I think all the vendors kits are pretty compareable good coils and 11 pack rear leafs should do what you want in most cases its good shocks that make the real differance.

 

[BigBlueBronco71]

Thanks for the replys fellas, follow up questions
what brand lift are you running with what shocks?
Also, what shocks are best and why?

 

[broncnaz]

My lift is mismatched springs from different vendors, shocks are cheap pro comps from the vendors. Ride is way better than old worn out stock stuff but I may go with the bilstien shocks everyone raves about.
Shocks really need to be valved for the vehicle they are used on many of the shocks out there are just valved genericlly and fit many vehicles a few companies do valving based upon the vehicle or just have better valving than most of whats availible.
I run just a 2.5in lift and only get minor rubbing on the rear inner fender lip at full flex that can be fixed by bending the lip or bigger bumpstops. I like the look of 2.5in lift with 33's better than a 3.5in with 33's but thats me.

 

[xcntrk]

How are your fenders cut currently? If you're using larger flares, such as the Gorilla Warflares, then you don't need much suspension lift for a 33" tire to clear body metal.

Here's my 2.5" suspension lift with no body lift and 33x12.5:

 

[BigBlueBronco71]

Rear is cut like so, front is uncut, only painted but will be cut and I'll use standard fiberglass flares. I'm considering the duff or WH lift so far with the standard shocks, I figure I can always upgrade them later, still on the fence 2.5 or 3.5, I do like the idea of some more room under the body and a bit less suspension lift so as to not interfere with geometry too much

 

[DirtDonk]

I think either way could work, but how often are you dune-hopping compared to other types of wheeling or driving? And just how do you drive in the dunes?
I'm asking because I'm just wondering if you need that little extra travel capability of the 3.5.

What was said is true about the 2.5, and if even your dune running is mild (you're not trying to keep up with the buggies) then it would be a winner. But if you're tending to get carried away sometimes, and having more fun than the law allows on Saturday nights, hitting the base of the dunes pretty fast and trying to get some air, you might just decide you needed that little extra.

I'm guessing you're pretty sane, based on your proximity to Pismo and the relatively tame current build, but I wanted to make sure you were keeping that mindset vs trying to run with the big-dogs.
Along with high-speed 2-track running in the deserts, playing in the sand dunes is another place where even dual-shocks still have an advantage.

Just throwing a few more thoughts out there to kick around is all. The 2.5 is less hassle, less change to the rig, and less expensive unless it turns out yours is one of the ones that ends up needing the steering mods like dropped pitman arms and such. Most don't, but some do. Nature of the beast (and it's driver's!) it is.

Have fun!

Paul

 

[bronconut73]

2.5" sl with a 1" bl is a really good set up.
Get the WH kit with the Bilstein option. Do it once. Do it right.

 

[savage]

That's one reason, I stayed with the 3.5inch lift, we run the dunes in Winchester bay Oregon, and when one of those buggies pull up next to you, it's hard not to gun it!!!!!!Love running the dunes, started with a 700 raptor, and a tt500 Yamaha. The last 2 years built the bronco for the dunes. What ever you pick get a complete kit, that way you have every thing.

 

[FlogginHarvey]

Little taller tire and lift (35" and 4.5 SL) but the plan for your build and mine sounds similar. Street, sand dunes, & trail/rocks. Went with the WH coils and leaf kit with King 2.5 ressies with adjusters. (Battlement fab arms, custom front shock mounts, Cage rear shock mounts) Was thinking 2" shock was enough but had some input from a couple of people suggested with the sand use I should at least consider 2.5 shocks with singles at each corner. So I spent an extra $200 per shock and went 2.5 with reservoirs with the compression adjusters.

Found a bad motor 2 weeks after the suspension & lockers were complete so no offroad yet ... But it feels awesome - supple, but well controlled on the street with the clickers at full "hard." Actually had a couple people working on it comment how surprised they were in the ride when testing driving for other issues. LOVE the WH spring setup on the street and highway!

 

[a74ranger]

Here is mine with 2.5" suspension and 1" body. If I went with the 3.5", I would want larger tires.

 

[BigBlueBronco71]

Thanks for the help guys,

I don't plan to be catching air in my bronco ha! Id like to push it and run some decent offroad trails but no rock crawling or anything too crazy

I'm leaning toward the 2.5in lift, so my new question is, will the 2.5 in limit me in any way vs. the 3.5, Is there anywhere I couldn't go in with a 2.5 that I could with a 3.5?

 

[bronconut73]

Nah....
The 3.5", like the 4.5" and 5.5" will simply provide another inch or so of droop in articulation.
I say stay with the 2.5" sl & 1" bl with your set up/expectations.

 

[DirtDonk]

I agree with bronconut in the basics. For what you're trying to accomplish I think that's a good way to get there.
But for literal maximums, a taller suspension lift allows the use of longer shocks, which, by definition in most cases (not all shocks are created equal), will allow for some additional wheel travel.
Here though, it's not just the shocks and springs that define "maximum" usable travel, but the combination of those and other parts. At some point you'll have to modify a host of other things to take full advantage of that extra potential travel. And with 3.5, some of those additional parts are mandatory to keep decent street manners. With a 2.5 they're still optional.

Things like driveshafts, brake hoses, brake cables, shock mounts, radius arms, etc. In other words, you're in pretty good shape either way, but the 2.5 + 1 is a killer combo for mild to almost-slightly-wild;D setups. A 3.5 might actually give you more potential, but adds a host of other things you have to do to get there.

Paul

 

[savage]

Hey Paul,even with a body lift, don't you have issues with the rag joint,clutch rod if you have a stick.Some time the shifter levers,filler hoses,and wirers.

 

[DirtDonk]

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. That definitive enough for 'ya?;D

With a 3" body lift, and sometimes even a 2", most of those things you cited will come into play and may have to be modified. With a 1" however, most of those things either aren't effected at all, or are minimally.
Where it gets even more vague though, is that not all Broncos will need to deal with all of those items. Some, like mine, don't need to deal with any of them.

A rag-joint does NOT want to be what changes the angle. It's meant for vibration reduction only, and is not the same as a u-joint/yoke. With most EB's however, the stock yoke is more than enough to compensate for a 1" lift with no distress and no modification needed. Not always of course, but for about 95%+ of EB's sporting a 1" body lift, no attention is required to the steering shaft.
Of course, a swapped-in box and/or shaft can easily put you in that other 5% of owners. There's just no guarantee.

The more common issues among those are the clutch rod, shift rod (if an auto) and radiator fan shroud. About 40-50% of owners will have enough adjustment in the rods to take care of 1" lift. About 75% of owners won't have to modify the fan shroud.
But the rest do.

The shift levers, filler hoses and wiring are typically not effected at all with 1". Only 2" or more.
This is only true for about 99% of EB's however, so as always... "Your results may vary" was never more true.

Even those percentages may vary slightly, depending on my memory's accuracy that day.;D But at least it gives you the basic picture.

Paul