Anyone having this FiTech Issue?

[Biohazard]

There is an "HEI" distributor available that looks like the old school points units on eBay and Amazon. I know of a couple of guys that have run them and say they work fine. It uses a module similar to the HEI big cap unit but is smaller and fits under the stock hood and clears the intake. I'm currently running the big cap HEI and had to mod it a bit to get adjustment clearing the intake. I'll be swapping in the smaller one when I install the FItech.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[NYLES]

There is an "HEI" distributor available that looks like the old school points units on eBay and Amazon. I know of a couple of guys that have run them and say they work fine. It uses a module similar to the HEI big cap unit but is smaller and fits under the stock hood and clears the intake. I'm currently running the big cap HEI and had to mod it a bit to get adjustment clearing the intake. I'll be swapping in the smaller one when I install the FItech.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

good info......too bad I can ebay at work

 

[DirtDonk]

and what the adj rotor for?

I'm just guessing, but an adjustable rotor is usually so the end-user can fine-tune the "phasing" of the rotor, which lets you decide just where the rotor will be when the actual spark event occurs.
This is necessary because as the timing advances and retards from mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms, the location of the rotor tip in relation to the contact in the distributor cap changes. In some cases, this change can literally push the rotor tip well past the contact point.
This is not enough to be an issue with most ignition setups, and most are perfectly fine right out of the box, but if the base setup is skewed just enough, it could lead to problems especially with ignitions capable of lots of advance. And with a finely tuned computer controlled unit, or a high-performance race engine where precise timing events can literally mean the life or death of the engine, it can be a real lifesaver.

I'm pretty sure that with most ECM controlled ignitions, you are locking out your advance mechanisms completely so the computer does all the work. In a case like that, you use the adjustable rotor to perfectly center the tip at the contact so there is no variation and no need for the spark to jump a bigger gap than needed.

Does the timing control work like TFI, continuously adj timing, because I keep reading that You still have to do timing with a light.

Here again, just assuming, but I'm pretty sure that means you set the initial base timing with the light, and the computer takes over from there. In this case, the "base" timing might actually be the maximum advance available to the computer, then it can retard from there as needed.
Or it could be a middle ground, where the computer can advance or retard from a given point. I'd bet though, that it's a maximum and the computer finds it easier to retard as needed.
Some EFI setups with particular distributors will actually have an LED light that you watch as you are rotating the distributor. When the lights come on, this is where you lock it down.
Others that know for sure can confirm or deny those reports though.

Paul

 

[JWMcCrary]

Does the timing control work like TFI, continuously adj timing, because I keep reading that You still have to do timing with a light.

"Ignition timing can be controlled and adjusted on the fly from your touch screen controller.

 Will work with CDI box but not required to control timing.

 Use of ignition timing control is optional and not required.

Ignition timing control does not learn, and requires synchronizing distributor to engine with a timing light."

You have to use a light to get it set and synchronized. Based on the statements above it sounds like it works the same as Holley Terminator. You need to enable static timing, I used 15 degrees. You then turn the distributor until it matches the static timing (15 degrees or whatever you set it at) on the balancer. At that point you can lock down the distributor. Set a static number higher, I used 30 degrees, run the rpms to 3500 to 4000 while watching the timing on the balancer. It should stay dead on 30 degrees(or whatever amount you set), if it doesn't there should be an adjustment in the EFI software to where you can move it to synchronize. In the Holley software it's called inductive delay and is on the same screen where you can enable static timing. You need to do this so that what the computer tells it to do is actually what you see on the balancer.

 

[NYLES]

Bryce emailed me back and said MSD billet but didn't say if I had to use a msd box or not.

MSD-8579
MSD 84211

I want to take advantage of this....
"Timing Control: Timing Control, or "spark control" as it
is sometimes called, is available on the Go EFI System.
Unlike most systems, an external CDI ignition box is not
required. In fact, the Go System is the only throttle body
EFI with a throttle body mounted ECU that has timing
control without the need for an external CDI box. This is
a savings of at least $200. The advance mechanism of
the distributor used must be locked out. Settings are
available for idle timing, as well as complete timing control
using your Handheld Controller."

without buyin a damn box! I don't mind the sync process that's easy...jus seems to me it would be much easier if they put out a lil more info on what will work! Kinda kills the cost savings if you have to buy a box to run a msd dizzy or buy the wrong one and get to use it as a spare.

 

[JWMcCrary]

Ive got 3 MSD boxes I'm about to list in the OCBR for sale thread. Each one was sent to MSD in El Paso to be checked out and are all good.

 

[bteutsch]

No need for MSD box. But the system can control an MSD box.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JWMcCrary]

MSD 8578 does require a CD box. But you got bigger problems than that if you are planning on putting it in a 302, its for a 351W

 

[NYLES]

OK I figured it alllllllllll out call Bryce and skip the other folks..........you buy these two parts, and wire it as shown in figure 13

MSD-8579 for 302 flat tap Iron gear
MSD 84211 adj rotor

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO BUY MSD BOX!

 

[NYLES]

MSD 8578 does require a CD box. But you got bigger problems than that if you are planning on putting it in a 302, its for a 351W

what you talkin bout Willis?

 

[NYLES]

No need for MSD box. But the system can control an MSD box.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think that's where confusion came in if you look up a MSD probillet it says requires a box well up and now with Fitech ........it don't!
Then your looking all over for a dizzy that doesn't exist because it does exist you just missed out on the fact the rules changed.
Then ya get the guy asking why I want timing control and deep down your thinkin WTH am I stupid? (of course not).

Whew what a ride!

 

[JWMcCrary]

I see you changed it, 8578 is 351W, 8579 is 302.

The Fitech must have a way of doing what the CD box does??, otherwise it won't work without a CD box. Those distributors have a 2 pin plug that goes directly to a MSD CD box. You look up the specs on the distributor and bet it says it needs a CD box. No arguing by any means, just pointing out for you to make sure before you buy. Distributors are not cheap.

 

[NYLES]

Ive got 3 MSD boxes I'm about to list in the OCBR for sale thread. Each one was sent to MSD in El Paso to be checked out and are all good.

You should hang on to a least one! Never know jus sayin............

 

[JWMcCrary]

I own 5, willing to sell 3

 

[NYLES]

I see you changed it, 8578 is 351W, 8579 is 302.

The Fitech must have a way of doing what the CD box does??, otherwise it won't work without a CD box. Those distributors have a 2 pin plug that goes directly to a MSD CD box. You look up the specs on the distributor and bet it says it needs a CD box. No arguing by any means, just pointing out for you to make sure before you buy. Distributors are not cheap.

yes, it has timing control........that's what I been pulling my hair out about.......Why have timing control if you cant use it? Fitech requires a a 2 wire dizzy,

"To utilize FiTech Timing
Control, the advance
mechanism on the distributor
must be locked and
inoperative."

with or without a box that the only way you get to use the purple and green wires that go straight from ECU to dizzy.....its gotta have it!

 

[JWMcCrary]

Understood. Pretty clear after I read Fitech instructions, I never had a reason to read their instructions.

Mine is different. Holley has their own distributor

 

[NYLES]

I own 5, willing to sell 3

I might want one might not......I wanna see how Fitech runs without one.

 

[bteutsch]

The FITECH unit has a two wire plug for the distributor no need for MSD box.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JWMcCrary]

I might want one might not......I wanna see how Fitech runs without one.

I switched to a 6201 digital when I swapped distributors, keeping one of the 6200s as a spare.

 

[NYLES]

Understood. Pretty clear after I read Fitech instructions, I never had a reason to read their instructions.

Mine is different. Holley has their own distributor

Its clear as mud!, if you read the dizzy requirements. Holley new Sniper looks just like it! but aint available till OCT.