Well Demon, while everyone else is pulling themselves back off the floor from the shock, I'll see if I can help.
I was going to say there should be no confusion as to why it doesn't work, because you were wiring it wrong. But with this new alternator being a non-Ford type (the reason for the previous shock) the way you have it now might actually work.
Since it doesn't, I'm going to have to say that the worst case is that your new alternator might have gotten fried in all the excitement.
I'm just wondering though, why it took two days and 16 posts before you mentioned that you've got a CUSTOM HYBRID ALTERNATOR that doesn't even remotely resemble a stock Ford type that you're using as your wiring theme?
That info would have been very helpful at the first sign of melting wires.
You don't mention it's output either I don't think. But if my search is correct, this is at least a 100 amp alternator. I see you're trying to run it through a new wire straight to the starter relay post, but what gauge is it?
It should be at least 8ga just for beginning, but could be as big as 4ga without being too much overkill. 6ga seems to be a happy medium, but using anything like 10ga or smaller might work for a short time, but could explain some of the smoke under the hood too!
What did you do with the old Black w/yellow wire from the BAT post on the alternator?
Hopefully it's safely taped up, wrapped up, tied off, or otherwise put somewhere safe.
As long as the original Black wire is still attached to the starter relay with the battery cable and your new charge wire, the end that used to be attached to the alternator is powered up hot all the time.
Ok, sorry I'm being pissy tonight. No excuse and I apologize. It was just a shock to realize what you're working with. And diagrams that are so far removed from what a stock Ford truck with gauges utilizes.
Even though they might work for your new one, nobody would know because they would not work in a typical EB setup.
So now back to the bad news. If it doesn't work after the next time Viper replies and clears up what I say next (in case I'm wrong), you should probably try to have it tested to make sure it's even still working. With so much smoke and incorrectly connected wires at this point, it's very possible that the alternator is now fried and won't work no matter how you hook it up.
Sorry to bring bad news into the mix before you try it more ways, but it's a possibility that needs to be mentioned.
I would think any auto parts store could test it, but they'd have to use older GM jumpers and methods, rather than Ford. An experienced tester should be able to see right off that it's GM based though.
But you might just call RuffStuff anyway, to clarify how to test it. Just in case.
And also tell them that their drawing you posted a link to is likely giving out incorrect info, at least as far as the trucks of this vintage are concerned.
For our trucks, the "F" or Field wire is ALWAYS Orange, the "STA" or Stator wire (when present) is always White w/black and there is no Green wire on the back of the alternators in these applications.
Again, maybe that's true of cars, and vehicles of other vintages, but no wiring diagram I have shows a Green wire to the FLD terminal.
Even if true for some, they should at least mention the possible variations and acknowledge that if you melted your new alternator, that it should be covered under warranty due to the confusion regarding their colors and locations.
I'm a total fan of TuffStuff by the way. Full disclosure says that I even used to be a sales rep for them for a short time (too short in my opinion) several years ago.
Liked their product, liked them personally, and thought they had some good ideas for this type of hot-roddy stuff.
I don't see where you mention it, but did you note in Step 5 of the instructions that if there was no S wire on your old alternator, you don't use one on the new one either?
Even though their diagrams show that one should have been present, and they have no way of knowing that your wiring is hacked, they did mention the possible differences.
As mentioned, your entire electrical system dying may be due to the old charge wire deteriorating from the partial meltdown. If the grounds were smoking, there's a chance that some of the positives were too.
Check the condition of the inline butt-connector behind the ammeter in the instrument cluster. If that one corrodes, melts, or just comes loose, you could lose all your power like you were experiencing.
So, to reiterate what Viper and the diagrams said, plus what I now think they should be with your new alternator.
Using "Bronco" standards:
1. Orange Field wire from F of the regulator to the terminal that they tell you to put it on in their new plug. Orange-to-Green then, it sounds like.
2. NO S wire on the new alternator.
3. Green w/red stripe of your old harness to S terminal of regulator.
Not sure what the Brown w/green wire is. Not one on a Bronco that I'm aware of. But as long as you test it for 12v with the key on only, you should be good.
How badly hacked is this from the PO? Could it have had new wires put in? Or could those colors be altered as a result of all the heat?
Just wondering.
4. Yellow wire in stock harness to "A" of regulator.
5. No "I" wire to regulator.
6. Ground wire from any GRD stud or any case bolt of the alternator to one of the bolts holding the regulator to the body.
Leaving your ground wire to the block is fine, but it's important that the original ground scheme be retained. And that's, as Viper said, from the alternator to the regulator so that they have the same ground potential.
7. You may have to test the new regulator too. Not sure if it could have fried in all this, but anything is possible. And if you ever attached power to it before it was bolted to the body, it could be fried.
If that doesn't work, we'll go through it again with the wiring methods that they are using in their instructions.
I know you've already done it both ways in theory, but with the slight variations it seems like you put in, would you mind trying it again? This time as written above first. Then if it doesn't work, we'll run down the other way. I'm not adding it here because my posts are always confusingly wordy anyway. So I'll leave it for another time, in case it's even needed.
Hope that gets it working.
I'm on your side still (even if it doesn't sound like it). I had to re-write it like fourteen times! Just to change the tone and to correct some of my mistakes from not reading your last post thoroughly the first time.
Good luck.
Paul
