C Bushing install problems, help needed

[demo0211]

I have a 1974 bronco that had stock springs and C bushings that were shot. I bought 2.5 inch lift coil springs and 7 degree bushing kit from Tom's. I have spring and bushings removed from passenger side only and trying to install new C bushings and barely getting two bolts to start and don't see any way the radius arm and front cap are going to come together. I have the bushings mounted properly for front/rear bottom, what am I doing wrong? Is there a driver and passenger difference in the bushings?

 

[onpier55]

Goto ace and buy a couple of longer bolts to get it squeezed in then get the other ones started.

 

[demo0211]

the problem is i don't see any way they are going to tighten far enough to bring the radius arm and front cap together

 

[bax]

Goto ace and buy a couple of longer bolts to get it squeezed in then get the other ones started.

This works good. Do you have the axle out or are you trying to do it under the truck? Under the truck is a little harder. The longer bolts make getting started easier.

 

[bax]

the problem is i don't see any way they are going to tighten far enough to bring the radius arm and front cap together

They will. have faith they have no where else to go.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, X3. I couldn't do it without longer bolts. I don't remember if I left them on, or went back to the original bolts when they would finally grab. Good luck

 

[demo0211]

Axle is still under bronco. I have the radius arm bushings installed and nut on loose. Just trying to get front cap on and tightened. All four of the C bushings look to be interchangeable as they are marked front bottom and rear bottom on each one.

 

[Bronco4x4]

Suggestion >> Look up Bronco lean in the search engine. You may have a hard time getting LH and RH equal doing one side at a time.

 

[blubuckaroo]

I have a 1974 bronco that had stock springs and C bushings that were shot. I bought 2.5 inch lift coil springs and 7 degree bushing kit from Tom's. I have spring and bushings removed from passenger side only and trying to install new C bushings and barely getting two bolts to start and don't see any way the radius arm and front cap are going to come together. I have the bushings mounted properly for front/rear bottom, what am I doing wrong? Is there a driver and passenger difference in the bushings?

Several things:

Make sure the bushings are installed properly. Sometimes the top and bottom markings aren't very clearly marked.

A bit of bushing lube on the bushings, and anti-seize on the bolts makes things go together more easily.

As previously recommended, a set of longer bolts for assembly is a good investment. This isn't the last time you'll use them.

I'm shocked that Toms went to 7 degree bushings even with a little 2.5" lift.?:? I'd certainly check my pinion angle after this install.

 

[jray]

I used 4 degree bushings on my 2 1/2 inch lift. Use plenty of lube on the bushings and bolts.....and as stated already, look up Bronco Lean for more guidance.

 

[bronconut73]

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/bronco_lean/tech_faq

 

[demo0211]

I'm following Tom's Bronco installation instructions which says do one side at a time and doesn't require removing trac arm or brake hose. Wild Horse instructions say to completely disassemble front diff from the bronco and place radius arms parallel on the floor. Has anybody followed Tom's instructions with success?

 

[Timmy390]

Guess I'm lucky. I've changed 2 sets of C bushings on my rig (from stock to 4 degree then to 7 degree) and only removed the T-bar as I recall. Used the stock bolts. I had the Bronco suppored on jack stands under the frame so the front tires were just off the ground. It's been years but I think that's how I did it.

I cleaned the surfaces really well and used LOTS of soapy water.....more soap than water. Went together like a glove....

Tim

 

[JWMcCrary]

I have spring and bushings removed from passenger side only

This is surely not helping. Especially going from rubber bushing and different degree.

I would disconnect both sides, get the arms reattached to the axle and then attach to the frame. That's how I have always done it and never had any big issues. I use dish washing liquid as lube on the bushings, very slick and washes off when done. I also keep a few longer bolts to help with getting them started and then swap back to the right length.

Good luck.

 

[jagbucket]

to be safer use longer studs when you go to ace get all thread and nuts to match that way you avoid the chance of cross threading the arms or rolling the threads .

 

[blubuckaroo]

I've done this job several ways. One side at a time , and complete disassembly. I've even left the radius arms installed when I was just changing the "C" bushings. I've never had a lean issue with any of the methods.
I really think it depends on if you're working alone or not. If you have help, complete disassembly would be the way to go. But I've done that alone too.%)
It seems to me that when you do one side at a time, the side with the new degreed bushing would be fighting the old stock bushing. I certainly wouldn't attempt to tighten the caps until both sides are assembled.

 

[demo0211]

Well C bushings installed and they tightened up no problem, greased'em up. Passenger side radius arm is 1/4 to 3/8 inch off the floor with the driver side arm touching the floor. I've tried everything multiple times cris-crossing etc and can't get them to line up perfectly. Is that close enough or will I have the dreaded lean?

 

[Muddy1966Bronco]

Lean can be other things. I set my radius arms perfectly (and they drew together first time that way using the provided lube) and my bronco leaned as soon as all the weight went back on. Worn suspension and the fact it had a minor hit on the side it leans are my two biggest possibilities. I had your same issue with my ‘66 long ago, though I can’t remember if we lubed or not. It makes the difference. Using a board or whatever that was the thickness of the gap, my husband and I set the one radius arm on it and the other on the ground through the tightening. I think I even had to stand on the one end throughout the tightening process. That took out the 1/2” or so gap we had and my bronco sat perfect. You gotta make sure your floor is perfectly level though. Even the small slope of most garage floors could explain that 1/4”.

 

[demo0211]

I just can't get radius arms to be parallel on the floor after trying several tightening combinations. Passenger is always off the floor while driver side is on the floor. My radius arms and caps were very rusty and a lot of scale build up, chiseled away what i could. Could that be the problem and need to grind them out smooth as seems the smallest build up could cause an issue at the end of the radius arms.

 

[Muddy1966Bronco]

Demo0211, mine also had ridiculous amounts of scale. I swear the previous owner drove through salt water and then let the bronco sit. I used a needler extensively and some chunks of scale came off that cleaning with a grinder didn’t get. And the grinder got some small bits that the needler missed. But I’d highly suggest investing in an air needler. Maybe $50-$75 at Harbor Freight. Get all that scale off. IMO, It could very likely be causing misalignment if you have big chunks.