Cutting steering shaft for safety?

[Soylent]

Installing my Ididit column and one of the videos I watched mentioned that you should have about 7” of collapsibility in the shaft to reduce the risk of being skewered in an accident. I have to collapse mine to where there is only an inch or so left.

 

[nvrstuk]

So your question is? Can you cut the female end off so it can collapse on the male end of the shaft more?

I can't get 7" collapsability on my strg setup on my EB

 

[Soylent]

My question is does anyone here set it up for this extended collapsibility or just install as is? When I see safety concerns (if it really is one) I think of my boys driving the truck.

 

[nvrstuk]

I am not sure of the last part I bought that could be bolted on and have it fit without modification.

We need more info as to what you have, what you ordered it for, etc? Was this from an EB vendor made to fit for an EB application?

Does the new one fit in the stock location and only have an inch or so collapsability? You should have more than one inch which means you need to cut the female end shorter so it can collapse onto the male end farther than 1"

 

[Soylent]

Yeah. Not giving you much to go on. Got the truck back from the mechanic and was told the original column ( manual steering) was shot. Converted to power steering with the Wild Horses kit. Recently purchased a GM tilt ididit column and it fits with the 1-2” left. Purchased the kit in 2019 for the original column so I have to replace the upper yoke with a 1D/1D yoke. The collapsing issue never crossed my mind until I saw that video.

 

[nvrstuk]

More tomorrow, but why can't you just cut off 4-5" of the female part of the slip (DD) so you will have 5+ of male shaft exposed so it can slide?

Mod it to get 5 or 6+" if possible.

Am I missing something-I am not understanding why you just won't cut it if that's all that's needed.

Remember that the male part of the DD has to slide in to the feamle part of the DD to make a solid "connection".

 

[Soylent]

I can cut it off. That wasn’t the question. I am asking if anyone here sets theirs up like that or wouldn’t be concerned and install as is. I don’t see a downside so I’ll just cut it and be done with it.

 

[Yeller]

I’d cut it. No issues as long as there is no possibility that it can come apart without something else being severely broken. I’ve never measured one but I always build them with 4-8” of collapsibility.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I would have to know how much male shaft there is inside that female part.
Ididit makes a lot of universal stuff, including advise.
Also think that with 2 U-joints in the column now the shaft can kick out sideways as well, so there is more telescope action than just the slip part.

 

[67sport]

Also think that with 2 U-joints in the column now the shaft can kick out sideways as well, so there is more telescope action than just the slip part.

This. My 67 was originally just a straight shaft from the box to your chest, those are the dangerous ones in a head on. Once you add a bit of angle for a different steering box and a couple of u-joints, it is much less probable to move in a straight line to your body in the same type of accident.

 

[nvrstuk]

"Installing my Ididit column and one of the videos I watched mentioned that you should have about 7” of collapsibility in the shaft to reduce the risk of being skewered in an accident. I have to collapse mine to where there is only an inch or so left."

I can cut it off. That wasn’t the question. I am asking if anyone here sets theirs up like that or wouldn’t be concerned and install as is. I don’t see a downside so I’ll just cut it and be done with it....

So if you installed yours as is it could only collapse 1". Your question was should you be concerned if you did.

I said in two separate posts that you should cut it off so it could collapse more-pretty specific answer. I signed off saying again that you should cut more off so it would collapse more. "More tomorrow, but why can't you just cut off 4-5" of the female part of the slip (DD) so you will have 5+ of male shaft exposed so it can slide?"

Just trying to help... like mentioned also... generic advice from Ididit

 

[lskeeney]

I agree that the female part should be cut down, but what should be the recommended minimum engagement of the female rod end into the male rod allowing for the most collapse while ensuring they don't come apart while driving. I'm sure flexing is minimal, but still possible with the introduction of the u-joints.

 

[Soylent]

So if you installed yours as is it could only collapse 1". Your question was should you be concerned if you did.

I said in two separate posts that you should cut it off so it could collapse more-pretty specific answer. I signed off saying again that you should cut more off so it would collapse more. "More tomorrow, but why can't you just cut off 4-5" of the female part of the slip (DD) so you will have 5+ of male shaft exposed so it can slide?"

Just trying to help... like mentioned also... generic advice from Ididit

I appreciate your input. It was late and I think we weren’t on the same wavelength. I probably should have said how many of you guys would cut this shaft down if it was your rig. There is 10-12” of the male shaft covered so I can cut 5” and not worry about loss of integrity of the shaft.

 

[nvrstuk]

I agree that the female part should be cut down, but what should be the recommended minimum engagement of the female rod end into the male rod allowing for the most collapse while ensuring they don't come apart while driving. I'm sure flexing is minimal, but still possible with the introduction of the u-joints.

Longer the better (to a point). Just make sure you have it "gooped up" good with antisieze or whatever is recommended.

 

[jamesroney]

So if you installed yours as is it could only collapse 1". Your question was should you be concerned if you did.

I said in two separate posts that you should cut it off so it could collapse more-pretty specific answer. I signed off saying again that you should cut more off so it would collapse more. "More tomorrow, but why can't you just cut off 4-5" of the female part of the slip (DD) so you will have 5+ of male shaft exposed so it can slide?"

Just trying to help... like mentioned also... generic advice from Ididit

Longer the better (to a point). Just make sure you have it "gooped up" good with antisieze or whatever is recommended.

So are you saying that it should be cut down?

 

[Broncobowsher]

I appreciate your input. It was late and I think we weren’t on the same wavelength. I probably should have said how many of you guys would cut this shaft down if it was your rig. There is 10-12” of the male shaft covered so I can cut 5” and not worry about loss of integrity of the shaft.

Don't forget to cut the male part as well. When it bottoms out it won't matter if the male side bottoms in the hole or the female side bottoms on the joint. When it is bottomed, it is bottomed out.

 

[73azbronco]

Didn't have room for one on my stock shaft, since I am not using original rag joint, oops. We drive a truck that if rolled without a rollbar installed, the roof will collapse to the height of the seat. If T boned, the vehicle hitting you will end up inside your opposite hip. I drive a motorcycle, I keep "room to live" as a way of life, I do the same with an EB. I'd rather be in the EB in any form of accident over a motorcycle.

 

[jamesroney]

Didn't have room for one on my stock shaft, since I am not using original rag joint, oops. We drive a truck that if rolled without a rollbar installed, the roof will collapse to the height of the seat. If T boned, the vehicle hitting you will end up inside your opposite hip. I drive a motorcycle, I keep "room to live" as a way of life, I do the same with an EB. I'd rather be in the EB in any form of accident over a motorcycle.

Me too! I had the same problem with my stock shaft. And I didn’t want to modify my inner fender. So I shortened my column, moved the bearing support, and went ahead and milled new 3/4-36 splines, and installed the fail-safe rag joint, then installed a Saginaw collapsible double d shaft with the nylon shear pins and connected it using a factory Spicer 1000 series u-joint, and the fail safe pinch bolt.

It worked OK.

 

[nvrstuk]

Me too! I had the same problem with my stock shaft. And I didn’t want to modify my inner fender. So I shortened my column, moved the bearing support, and went ahead and milled new 3/4-36 splines, and installed the fail-safe rag joint, then installed a Saginaw collapsible double d shaft with the nylon shear pins and connected it using a factory Spicer 1000 series u-joint, and the fail safe pinch bolt.

It worked OK.

... but how much overlap?

 

[nvrstuk]

Me too! I had the same problem with my stock shaft. And I didn’t want to modify my inner fender. So I shortened my column, moved the bearing support, and went ahead and milled new 3/4-36 splines, and installed the fail-safe rag joint, then installed a Saginaw collapsible double d shaft with the nylon shear pins and connected it using a factory Spicer 1000 series u-joint, and the fail safe pinch bolt.

It worked OK.

James- if you removed your inner fenders you wouldn't have to modify them!

(just trying to help) lol