Dana 44 high pinion narrow and install

[stupidboy]

Has anyone pulled the tubes out of a center section without ruining them? If so what was the method?

 

[Broncobowsher]

No...

And why would you want to anyway?

 

[stupidboy]

No...

And why would you want to anyway?

I have a high pinion 44 I want the tubes pulled from but don’t want to ruin them

 

[stupidboy]

No...

And why would you want to anyway?

I want to build a high pinion 44 for my bronco. I have skill

 

[stupidboy]

Yes. Plenty. Burn out the rosette welds, and then press out the tube. Dynatrac used to pull them for you, and they would machine the rosette welds. Very elegant, but usually you end up galling the tube when you press them out. Also, the inner plug welds get kind of close to the seal bore in the housing. When you get done, you need to weld and finish machine the tube to plug your holes, otherwise the stupid housing leaks at the tube OD. Also, the rosettes are mild steel, but they draw carbon from the cast steel housing, and they will harden up. Carbide will cut them, but you gotta go slow, and you need flood cooling.

I've built a fair number of High Pinion rear 60's, and would re-tube the short side to make a centered rear. Easy as pie. Burn the rosettes thru, and then burn the tube, and then split the tube with the torch. And they "fall" out.

It's hot, miserable, and you are going to get cooked. If you don't have skill, you will scarf the housing bore, and that's generally bad form. I think I could do it better with an Air Arc gouger...but I'm lazy.

Go back and answer @Broncobowsher question above. Probably worth answering twice...

What’s the press method? Porta-power?

 

[stupidboy]

Turnbuckles, good idea and long althread thanks

 

[stupidboy]

Is the left tub in the high 44 the exact length of the early bronco with the radius wedges in the right spot?

 

[Broncobowsher]

I want to build a high pinion 44 for my bronco. I have skill

What are you starting with?

For the most part, leave the short side alone (close enough) and shorten the long side to length. Cut off the outer C and wedges and move them. Tube stays in the center section.

 

[stupidboy]

I’m starting with 79 f150/bronco 44

 

[stupidboy]

What are you starting with?

For the most part, leave the short side alone (close enough) and shorten the long side to length. Cut off the outer C and wedges and move them. Tube stays in the center section.

What is meant by close in fractional measurements?

 

[bax]

Is the left tub in the high 44 the exact length of the early bronco with the radius wedges in the right spot?

5/8'' longer on the 150 axle

 

[stupidboy]

Wait, so the 78-79 bronco 44 and 150 44 have different wedges?

 

[stupidboy]

https://downtofab.com/
This might be a better start.

 

[Broncobowsher]

This is where the trouble begins. @bax is exactly correct. 5/8 longer on the F150. Problem is that it’s 5/8 inch on the short tube side. So you have to make a choice. Run the F150 left side, and shorten the right side an ADDITIONAL 5/8, and get a custom shaft, or run the right side at factory bronco width…and use an EB shaft.

If you use the EB shaft on the right, and the F150 shaft on the left, then the pumpkin gets shifted over toward the oil pan by another 5/8 inch. And that’s trouble. As you go wider, the pumpkin shifts to the left side, and that’s the better direction. This is why many people will recommend going full width. Because then the pumpkin gets shoved over 2 inches to the left…and pretty much clears everything.

Have fun!

Not 5/8"
split the difference, 5/16" per side with the diff shifted over 5/16". Since you are talking converting low to high pinion, any diff clearance you are looking at in stock for is meaningless in high pinion form.

The only way the diff would move over 5/8" is if you did a long side custom 5/8" shorter than bronco length and did a true stock bronco track width.

FYI, in the 70s it was common for track width to be off by multiple inches between front and rear axles. I think square bodies it was 4" difference(?)

 

[stupidboy]

FYI, in the 70s it was common for track width to be off by multiple inches between front and rear axles. I think square bodies it was 4" difference(?)
I have seen this.

 

[DirtDonk]

The Dana 60 in a ‘79 F350 is about the same way.
Makes any normal tire/wheel combo look a little bit odd with the body style.

 

[stupidboy]

So are the tubes the same diameter on 76-77 and 78-79 housings? I see that the 76-77 has weld on wedges, I didn’t know that.

 

[Yeller]

Since you already have the Disc outers from the 78-79…you can also use any of the high pinion Drum brake housings from either the F100 or the F250.

This saves the heartburn of pulling tubes as well. Have done it, more than once never again.

 

[stupidboy]

I’m so unsure which way to go with this.
With 5-1:2” of lift, my pinion angle on the front shaft is horrible and maxed out at the transfer case.
Plus, even with the long arms and 2 degree bushings I have maybe a degree of caster.

 

[bmc69]

I pulled the long side tube on the first D44 I ever narrowed. Never again. In addition to the PITA getting it out, it was after it was out that I discovered that machining was required on the OD and ID of the tube if I cut the 6" off the end that was in the center section.. Good thing I own a machine shop.


Soooo much easier to deal with removing the outer (and separate wedges if pre-78).