Dana 44 high pinion narrow and install

[stupidboy]

I keep thinking about putting 7 degree bushings in upside down to get better pinion angle and then turn inner c’s but I don’t think it will be enough correction on the pinion angle

 

[Broncobowsher]

I keep thinking about putting 7 degree bushings in upside down to get better pinion angle and then turn inner c’s but I don’t think it will be enough correction on the pinion angle

That's likely to create more issues. Pretty close to 0 degrees of bushing to straighten the pinion U-joint angle. The high pinion should do wonders for the CV angle as well. I'm thinking of how 6 degree wedges in the rear axle swing the driveshaft angle about 9 degrees since the pifot point of rotation isn't in the center of the U-joint. 7 degree bushing installed backwards, with a lift, would rotate the pinion up roughly 20 degrees above original ride height. But the front driveshaft (with a high pinion) would be pretty close to a stock angle.

You can zero out poly bushings by flipping one over. I would run a 2 degree bushing and flip one bushing per side so all the fat sides are facing up.

 

[stupidboy]

I didn’t realize the bushings would rotate the pinion up that much, so I will give that a try and rotate the c’s.
Hopefully this gets it driving better till I do something with the hp

 

[stupidboy]

http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/
Anyone ever use this place?

 

[stupidboy]

HUH???

Bushings have absolutely nothing to do with pinion angle on a 78-79 Cast wedge housing...if you rotate the C's. The wedges are married to the C. This is the reason why no sane person wants a cast wedge housing in a Lifted truck.

Or did you change subjects on me and are you now talking about your stock EB 44?

And whose long arms are you running? Jim Cole's arms (Cage off road, Bloddy Knuckle Garage, James Duff) have 4 degrees of caster built into them. Most of the time.

I want to fix the pinion angle on the original 44 by putting the radius bushings in backwards with the AFF long arms. Then cut the c’s loose and turn them to correct the caster.
Seems like it will work without cutting the wedges loose and turning the pinion up. What do you think??

 

[Oldtimer]

You can zero out poly bushings by flipping one over. I would run a 2 degree bushing and flip one bushing per side so all the fat sides are facing up.

?
Theoretically, No
Practicality, Maybe. Does poly conform to missalined angles, and give you zero?

 

[stupidboy]

What’s the idea behind a tiny bit more caster on the drivers side.

 

[toddz69]

What’s the idea behind a tiny bit more caster on the drivers side.

To compensate for road crown.

Todd Z.

 

[stupidboy]

To compensate for road crown.

Todd Z.

Thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

You'll see it on some alignment sheets as "cross-caster" in addition to "cross-camber" readings.
As said they are introduced to improve straight line driving on most roads.
If I remember it's not a big number usually. Hence the "tiny bit" specification.

Paul

 

[stupidboy]

I already have 2 78-79’s but I guess I should look for an earlier hp44

 

[DirtDonk]

Just to be sure that they are both what you think they are, do both of them have the cast ends on them?

 

[Broncobowsher]

?
Theoretically, No
Practicality, Maybe. Does poly conform to missalined angles, and give you zero?

View attachment 892800

There is enough variation in assembly it won't matter. Think of how much misalignment you can get if you don't dial out the "Bronco lean" as you bolt stuff together. That's just with which bolts are tightened first.

 

[bax]

I am currently building another HP44. I look for 44's out of 76 F100's . 1/2'' thick tubes with weld on wedges. I do take the 5/8'' off the short side. I have to take the C off anyway and I like running the stock EB length axles.

 

[stupidboy]

Just to be sure that they are both what you think they are, do both of them have the cast ends on them?

Yes they have the cast wedges

 

[stupidboy]

I am currently building another HP44. I look for 44's out of 76 F100's . 1/2'' thick tubes with weld on wedges. I do take the 5/8'' off the short side. I have to take the C off anyway and I like running the stock EB length axles.

This is what I’ll do

 

[bax]

Here are a couple pictures. The wedges are loose, but the radius arms are attached. You can take a jack and put it under the pinion to get your pinion angle. Then tack you're wedges. Then set your C's to what you want. ( make sure you are at ride height when doing all this )

 

[stupidboy]

Thanks bax, I like pics, looks good. Can you get some pics of setting the caster on those c’s??

 

[stupidboy]

Also, do I notice some machine work on the tube ends for the c,s or is that just cleaned that good?

 

[bax]

Also, do I notice some machine work on the tube ends for the c,s or is that just cleaned that good?

Flap disk on a grinder works great. I try and smooth out the tubes where the wedges go. It helps them slip on the tube when you rotate the pinion into place. The grinding on the tube where the C installs is a little more tricky. You want to clean them real good but you really dont want to undersize the tube. You want them to be a tight fit. Not a bull on hammer fest just some tapping with a 2 pound hammer will do it. Or you can heat them but I dont.