distributor install on new engine - 351W

[saxman]

got my new MSD distributor today and am going to try and get this into my new 351W that I am putting together.

I know about proper alignment when taking a distributor out to make sure you know how to put it back. However, this is a brand new engine that has never be started. any suggestinos about this install? any ideas would be great. i have read about putting some grease on the end of the distributor as well...

I am also aware about the dist not going all the way down and engaging with the oil pump.

thanks for the advice....

 

[broncnaz]

If you still have the timing cover off make sure the 2 dots on the timing gears are lined up then drop in the dist. If the timing cover is on and you havent turned the engine over since installing the timing gears just drop the dist in.
If your not sure and the engine is all together put the timing marks on the balancer on TDC pull a valve cover turn engine in normal direction and if the exhaust valve starts to open reverse the engine back to TDC and drop in the dist.. that should cover it all. I think.

 

[saxman]

timing cover is on already. i also have to put a new harmonic balnacer on, one with a 3-bolt so it will work the 302 pulley system.

should i put the dist on first or do the harmonic balancer?

 

[dpmerrill]

Put the balancer on first so you'll have timing marks to work with when you install the distributor.

Also, before you install the distributor would be a good time to put an electric drill on the oil pump shaft with an extension and run it for a few minutes to get the oil started.

Turn the engine to 0 degrees TDC on the compression stroke. Apply lube to the distributor gear and point the rotor to the #1 contact in the distributor cap and install.

 

[saxman]

thanks for the info. i also have to put a new oil pan on so the engine will fit correctly. should i do that first above everything else.

order or operations:
1. oil pan
2. harmonic balancer
3. distributer?

 

[74bob]

order or operations:
1. oil pan
2. harmonic balancer
3. distributer?

Oil pan then balancer then distributor or just cover the distributor opening with a rag and install engine. Prime the pump before your ready to put some fire to the beast then install the distributor.
Bob

 

[Madgyver]

This is what I always do.

• Make sure engine has new oil and oil filter in it.
• Prime engine oil using an oil priming tool or a gutted distributor and a drill. To use an old dizzy just remove the inners and the cam gear.
• Make sure there is oil pressure.
• Remove #1 spark plug.
• Using a starter switch on the solenoid, jog engine over while priming the oil pump a couple of times.
• Now place your finger close to the #1 spark plug hole and jog engine over. You will feel air pushing out the hole on every other stroke.This is the compression stroke and where you what to start as your baseline.
• Find the compression stroke and look at the timing marks. Use a breakerbar and socket on the crank bolt to line the marks up about 8-10 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke.
• Your distributor cap should be all wired up with your plug wires. If not, set it up where you want the #1 plug to start. Fit cap on the dizzy and mark position of the #1 plug on the dist. bottom half.
• Now drop that dizzy in while trying to land the rotor pointing in the area of the #1 mark you made. You may need to use the oil pump priming tool or gutted dizzy to turn the oil pump shaft for the new dizzy to drop in where you want it.
• Now you got the dizzy in. Line up #1 mark and rotor. Double check crank timing marks, it should be at 8-10 degree BTDC on the compression stroke. Reinstall #1 spark plug and wire, Lock down dizzy.
• Add fuel, make sure trans is in park, parking brake on, timing light ready, fire exstinguisher close by and charged. Wire up everything like you should and start engine. This baseline position with crank and dizzy will get motor started, if not, then you have other problems
• This is what I always do...........
  
  Good Luck,
  madgyver

As a matter of fact I will be doing this today on a customer's EB

 

[Madgyver]

Here is a picture of a couple oil pump primers made from gutted dizzys.

Top one is for 351's the one on the drill is for the 302.

 

[WheelHorse]

This is what I always do.

• Make sure engine has new oil and oil filter in it.
• Prime engine oil using an oil priming tool or a gutted distributor and a drill. To use an old dizzy just remove the inners and the cam gear.
• Make sure there is oil pressure.
• Remove #1 spark plug.
• Using a starter switch on the solenoid, jog engine over while priming the oil pump a couple of times.
• Now place your finger close to the #1 spark plug hole and jog engine over. You will feel air pushing out the hole on every other stroke.This is the compression stroke and where you what to start as your baseline.
• Find the compression stroke and look at the timing marks. Use a breakerbar and socket on the crank bolt to line the marks up about 8-10 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke.
• Your distributor cap should be all wired up with your plug wires. If not, set it up where you want the #1 plug to start. Fit cap on the dizzy and mark position of the #1 plug on the dist. bottom half.
• Now drop that dizzy in while trying to land the rotor pointing in the area of the #1 mark you made. You may need to use the oil pump priming tool or gutted dizzy to turn the oil pump shaft for the new dizzy to drop in where you want it.
• Now you got the dizzy in. Line up #1 mark and rotor. Double check crank timing marks, it should be at 8-10 degree BTDC on the compression stroke. Reinstall #1 spark plug and wire, Lock down dizzy.
• Add fuel, make sure trans is in park, parking brake on, timing light ready, fire exstinguisher close by and charged. Wire up everything like you should and start engine. This baseline position with crank and dizzy will get motor started, if not, then you have other problems
• This is what I always do...........
  
  Good Luck,
  madgyver

As a matter of fact I will be doing this today on a customer's EB

great explination of finding the compression stroke. This is important so you do not installt he dizzy 180 off.

 

[saxman]

thanks for all the info. i plan to do this in about 2 weeks. work is busy, but that is a good thing. will let you know how everything turns out.

 

[num]

good info on this thread...

It's all about finding the compression stroke on cyliner "1". I've used the "screwdriver test" by stuffing a screwdriver in the spark plug hole in the head and feeling for the top of the piston - not while cranking of course. Also paying attention to the harmonic balancer the whole while. Then installing the distributor in the most convenient position with the rotor pointing to where I want the "1" plug wire to reside. Then wiring the rest of the plugs in sequence as per the manual. It's rather easy after the first time you do this. There's a lot of little things all mentioned prior such as priming the oil pump - and I love the pick of the gutted old distributor main shaft and plugging it into a drill. I've made one hell of a mess doing this with the drill on too fast a setting with the valve covers off on a roller motor with a high pressure pump, hah. Another important bit is to put the assembly lube on the distributor to cam gear... and making double sure your distributor gear matches the material of the cam.

If you're replacing the distributor on an already running motor, it's a little bit of a different story.. i.e. marking where the rotor is pointing prior to extraction of the old dist while keeping the wires connected to the old cap. installing the new distributor to the previously made mark and plugging the wires onto the exact terminals in the same location as on the stock cap.

The only pisser with my 351 is the oil pump input shaft is somewhat hard to align with the new distributor, i.e. getting a 6-point socket the right size to spin the oil pump input shaft ever so slightly till it's lined up perfectly. Some times it's taken me 30min just to get the new dist in right (possibly because I'm a tard) and others fits the first time.

 

[saxman]

ok guys, I am adjusting the valves before I set up the dizzy. I know that I have been told that I should install the dizzy 8-10 degrees BTDC. however, when adjusting the vlaves, should I make sure that all the valves are closed and that each piston is at the highest point on the compression stroke? this would mean that for #1, it should be almost at 0 degress on the harmonic balancer....right? once that is done, go ahead and find 8-10 BTDC and line up the rotor with my #1 spark plug.

this is a brand new engine btw...

thanks for the help...

 

[74bob]

should I make sure that all the valves are closed and that each piston is at the highest point on the compression stroke? this would mean that for #1, it should be almost at 0 degress on the harmonic balancer....right? once that is done, go ahead and find 8-10 BTDC and line up the rotor with my #1 spark plug.

this is a brand new engine btw...

thanks for the help...

Yup you are correct to make sure all valves are closed to adjust. Good luck.

 

[Madgyver]

ok guys, I am adjusting the valves before I set up the dizzy. I know that I have been told that I should install the dizzy 8-10 degrees BTDC. however, when adjusting the valves, should I make sure that all the valves are closed and that each piston is at the highest point on the compression stroke? this would mean that for #1, it should be almost at 0 degress on the harmonic balancer....right? once that is done, go ahead and find 8-10 BTDC and line up the rotor with my #1 spark plug.

this is a brand new engine btw...

thanks for the help...

Find the compression stroke for #1, TDC should be 0 degrees on the timing marks and you can adjust the intake/exhaust valves for the #1 cylinder per your specs. Hand crank the motor exactly 1/4 turn, now adjust the valves for the next cylinder in your firing order. Repeat this step till you do all eight cylinders. Now you're done baseline adjusting valves.

 

[Madgyver]

Someone needed this info.......................TTT

 

[DirtDonk]

...Then installing the distributor in the most convenient position with the rotor pointing to where I want the "1" plug wire to reside. Then wiring the rest of the plugs in sequence as per the manual.

The only pisser with my 351 is the oil pump input shaft is somewhat hard to align with the new distributor, i.e. getting a 6-point socket the right size to spin the oil pump input shaft ever so slightly till it's lined up perfectly. Some times it's taken me 30min just to get the new dist in right (possibly because I'm a tard) and others fits the first time.

You got that right num. This might help though, the next time you do one.
When you've got the distributor almost there, and it won't quite line up with the pump shaft, keep a slight pressure downward on it and turn the crankshaft with the other hand.
When the cam is turning, it will turn the partially engaged distributor gear until the shafts line up and it pops right in.
Sometimes turning the crank one way is better than the other, but you'll probably have a feel for which way as you've been fiddling with it for so long anyway.

Once you're lined up and the distributor has popped the rest of the way down, rotate the crank back to TDC and twist your dizzy accordingly.
I found that even if you're off a tooth on the gears, when you pull it out and re-align the gears, you're still good to go with the shafts. Even if not though, you can manipulate it pretty good with the crank-turning method.

Works on a 302 anyway. Should work for a 351 too.

Paul

 

[SteveL]

If it doesn't want to seat all the way down you may need an aftermarket oil pump shaft. Some of the stock ford ones weren't consistant and are too long not allowing an aftermarket dist. to go all the way in. I had this problem when I swapped to a DUI.

 

[Madgyver]

TTT again..........................