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Distributor install

Joined
Apr 18, 2013
Messages
39
Loc.
Buckeye
Are the distributors on the 302's keyed? Or can you actually install a distributor one tooth off? For some reason I thought they were keyed so they either go in correctly or 180 off.
 

savage

Bronco Nut
Joined
Apr 18, 2007
Messages
2,483
Loc.
Renton
They are not keyed,but they run the oil pump so the hard part is lining up the shaft for the pump.
 
OP
OP
M
Joined
Apr 18, 2013
Messages
39
Loc.
Buckeye
Okay now I must be missing something. Just to check, I cranked it over until the pointer is right at zero. I pulled the cap to see where the rotor was pointing and it was pointing exactly opposite of cyl 1 on the cap. Is there a different mark on the balancer for TDC? Is it possible for this thing to run 180 out?
 

Ourobos

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 7, 2008
Messages
1,225
Loc.
Big Island Hawaii
Yes, it could be 180 out, if it's not on the compression stroke. It's a 4 stroke engine. Just pull it, and move the rotor button 180, or rewire #1 from where the button is pointing.
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,348
Are the distributors on the 302's keyed? Or can you actually install a distributor one tooth off? For some reason I thought they were keyed so they either go in correctly or 180 off.

The only ones that need to be clocked correctly are the TFI distributors on an EFI engine. Any others can be clocked as you need or want to as long as the #1 wire and rotor is timed with the #1 piston on compression.
 
OP
OP
M
Joined
Apr 18, 2013
Messages
39
Loc.
Buckeye
The dizzy is setup correctly....confirmed it...I am just having some part throttle miss/bog issues. I am thinking it's the secondary circuit on my 1406. I may rejet it this weekend.Though it seems to run better with the vac advance removed and plugged.

It appears this Bronco has a after market ignition...I think its a duraspark. No points, has a coil but separate box to it.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,465
You may already have seen this if you looked down the hole at any point, but to add to the mystery, your terminology of it being "keyed" is not far off.
The 180 degree one way or the other thoughts are likely from GM products (if you've ever worked on or read about those) that simply use a "blade" like a screwdriver on the end of the shaft that slips into a matching slot in the oil pump shaft.
Ford uses a hex-shaped shaft, instead of a slot, so you can get it one tooth off on the gear and not quite be able to seat the female distributor shaft in the male pump shaft.
To make it work for you then, you can either stick a tool down the hole to spin the pump shaft slightly, or rotate the engine slightly until they line up, then backtrack to the marks. Whichever way works to get you lined up and working is fine.

Obviously, you got that figured out and it's in and running. I just wanted to mention that in case you had not had a chance to look down the hole and see what was going on. Or needed to do it again to get a better distributor body/cap alignment for your particular setup.

And like was said, in a 4-stroke/cycle engine, the cam, and therefore the distributor, rotates at half the speed of the crank. So your TDC marks come up twice for every one rotation of the distributor.

That's what is meant by getting the distributor 180 out, or off.
But if your timing light shows your marks lining up and you're running, you're at least in the ballpark and not 180 off.

Paul
 
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