I would normally agree that this would be the simplest and quickest solution, but consistent with your measurements of how much lift you got, your trackbar angle is way too severe to be a happy camper on the street. So instead of removing the dropped pitman arm in this case, I would go ahead and use the drop bracket.
If you continue to use Duff parts, ask them if they have two styles and lengths. I've seen their heavy duty one and it's very nicely made, but is not long enough to match your very deep drop on the pitman arm.
And speaking of which, unless you make other tweaks or changes to an EB, you ALWAYS use a trackbar drop with a dropped pitman arm. Your bars were basically parallel when it left the factory, but by changing only one of the two matching items, that mismatched angle was created.
A riser definitely IS the stronger method, but as was mentioned there are two considerations. Lift height (clearance) and changing the geometry. Your lift height seems sufficient (looks like 3.5 as you were saying) but unless you change your tie-rod to TRO, you're not getting the best geometry you can.
Yes, a riser will work with stock tie-rod orientation. It's just not optimal. And while some have messed up frames due to the added leverage of the drop bracket, 90% of us using them have never had an issue. Every Bronco is different, as is every Bronco's use.
Whichever way you go though, you must get the two bars back to as close to parallel as possible. And as shallow of an angle as possible. You might temporarily improve things slightly by putting your stock pitman arm back on (if you have it still?) but you won't be optimizing it for your lift until you do both the pitman arm and the drop bracket.
Oh, and after you bolt the drop bracket on, you need to weld it. You can drive with a bolted arm, but it flexes more and you will see it in a slight wandering over the road that would not otherwise be there.
Good luck.
Paul