dumb question for engine gurus

[phred]

What is the purpose of the engine plate. The thin plate that goes between the engine and bell housing.
Reason Im asking. The truck Im currently working on doesn't have one. Im sure the lazy shop that screwed everything else up on this truck just left it off in a rush to get the truck out.
Should I be concerned that the plate is missing?
Yeah I know the flex plate is now partly exposed.

 

[DirtDonk]

Well, I have to admit that, other than the initial protection from the outside environment that the lower part provides, I don't remember ever hearing a difinitive reason for it.

It's entirely possible that is it's only function. From a standpoint of casting the blocks, maybe it was simpler/easier/cheaper/stronger/more consistent to cast the blocks without a lower portion on them. The plate would then have been a simple add-on to cover the rest of what was a necessarily full-roundish bell housing.

As far as exact spacing for things like the clutch and pilot bearings, the only other thing I can think of that they do for sure is to protect the clutch friction surfaces from direct contact with engine oil that might come out of any of the oil/cam gallery plugs and, perhaps even the rear main.

Will an engine run without it? I've never done it, but know for a fact that many people have left them off before. Though never anyone that was diligent about re-assembling something that they took apart, or that wasn't racing and wanted to leave it out for their own reasons. But they are out there, and I've never actually heard of anything happening because of it.

That's just my minimal experiences with the subject though. I hope others have some better info.

Paul

 

[73azbronco]

Engine plate keeps oil off the rear seal from fouling the clutch.

No real reason on an auto. However, I think it is a good idea as it act like a gasket so you can pull them apart. Imagine twenty years of a cast iron bellhousing being stuck to a cast iron block, you would never, ever be able to separate them.

 

[bmc69]

I've seen trannies completely destroyed by the simple bad bounce of a rock off the roadway...going through that large gap and getting trapped and zapped.

Also..I was wheeling with a fella once that left the inspection/access cover off the bottom of that plate. A 2" sapling popped up and went in there...tore his stuff all to hell.

 

[Ourobos]

Actually it's a starter shim.. It was designed to orientate the starter out the proper depth.

 

[DirtDonk]

There 'ya go!

Maybe that's why Ford starter shims are so common on the HELP! racks in parts stores these days. To fix the issue for those that left the plates out!

Paul

 

[phred]

well all those are ideas i had and feared. I'm fixing a lot F-ups on this truck done by a "real repair shop". I don't think the owner is gonna be too happy to hear that I (we) think the engine needs to come out to fix this problem.

Its like an onion. the deeper i look theres another layer of shoddy work covered by shiney paint!

 

[Ourobos]

Well if it's not a big deal to him, you can simply shim the starter. Not having the block plate won't really effect anything else. Use shims the depth of the plate, I can go measure a plate for you if needed, I have a few in the shop.

 

[Fairlane514]

Also effects the input shaft on the 3 speed transmission ……there is only so much depth to the pilot bearing hole in the crank.

 

[Ourobos]

Surely it's more than 1/16"..

 

[matts460]

If something came apart or off the torque converter or any debrise got in there id rather it hit that plate than the back of the block! Or the rear cam plug or freeze plugs!

 

[Ourobos]

If something came off the converter or apart at 3000 rpm, it's cutting right through that plate, and possibly the bellhousing.

 

[Viperwolf1]

That plate has the hole that precisely orients the starter. The starter nose is machined to fit tightly in that hole in order to keep it the correct distance from the ring gear.

 

[baddad457]

That plate has the hole that precisely orients the starter. The starter nose is machined to fit tightly in that hole in order to keep it the correct distance from the ring gear.

X2 on this. It indexes the starter to the flywheel/flexplate. Without it, starter engagement can be "hit or miss"

 

[Ourobos]

^ Yeah, see post #5

 

[baddad457]

Iy's not the depth that's the most important, but the distance away from the center of the flexplate/flywheel so the teeth mesh correctly.

 

[bax]

Not to mention end play in a front pump on an auto trans. It's a must.

 

[mcknight77]

Surely it's more than 1/16"..

Sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't.

If the front shaft is bottomed in the pilot bearing it will put pressure against the crank and crank bearing thrust surfaces, destroying them and putting metal in your oil. That crank has to be able to move back and forth a bit.

I've run them without the plate and had no damage. I put them in now.

 

[Broncobowsher]

X2 on this. It indexes the starter to the flywheel/flexplate. Without it, starter engagement can be "hit or miss"

X3 (or 4)

It is located on the dowel pins and has the indexing hole for the starter.

Secondary is a debris shield, get a rock kicked up into the bellhousing and bounce around a little can make a huge mess when it wedges between the flywheel and something like the snout of the starter.
With a clutch it also is a splash shield. Clutches work better when they are not soaked. I have known a few drowned clutches that scattered the disk after going underwater. The water soaking the disk flashing to steam blowing the friction material apart is what has been told to me. If you dry it out without flashing to steam it is OK, amazing what engine heat can do.

 

[matts460]

I have had a starter nose come apart and fling little needle bearings and a small chunk of alum inside bell housing area! It stopped some pretty nasty debris from hitting back of the block, plus its technicaly for the starter. Damn reman starters!!!