EFI first start issue thread. "Its alive!!!"

[Viperwolf1]

See post #15 above. There are only 4 ways to get 6V on the pump wire with the key off: bad harness, bad ECM ground, bad ECM, or you don't know how to use a voltmeter.

 

[beaux312]

check and make sure your jumper wire is still wear the inertia is suppose to be, if its not in good it will only send 6v to the pump

 

[rjrobin2002]

12.5 volts at my brand new battery and it is plenty strong turning the starter over. I think I will add a ground from block to frame and body to frame also.

 

[rjrobin2002]

I am going to do your test Viper when I am off Wed.

 

[rjrobin2002]

Looks like someone had the same 6.6 volt issue, I PM'ed him to see what caused his.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196148&highlight=inertia+switch

 

[ransil]

No frame ground at the moment, I grounded the battery to the block and the block is bolted to the frame, but maybe I need more than that. Where do you recommend a frame ground and do you mean between the frame and the body?

is your fuel pump grounded to the frame??

 

[rjrobin2002]

is your fuel pump grounded to the frame??

Yes the fuel pump is grounded to the frame and RJM is grounded to the motor. I am going to tie it all together with a ground from motor to frame and body to frame and recheck everything, hope I am headed in the right direction. But I grounded the pink wire at the inertia switch under the dash to the body when testing volts and got the same 6.6 volts. That is leading me to think it is the computer sending the 6.6 volts due to needing a better ground.

 

[broncoitis]

If I were you, I would Ground the Negative Battery side to the Frame and not the Engine. After that, I would Ground the Engine to the same spot on the frame as the Negative battery cable.

I drilled a hole in the frame and tapped it and got a matching bolt about 1.5inch and cut the head off and threaded that in the hole. I secured the post in place by running a nut down the bolt and snugged it against the frame and then slid the grounds over the bolt and secured them in place with another bolt on top. Grounding has been good and hopefully that makes sense. I will try and post a pic of what I mean if that helps! ;D

 

[ransil]

I ground Battery - Block-Frame-Body
The motor is the highest current draw
I use welded studs on the body & frame

For the frame I put it forward of the front pass coil spring or on the pass motor mount , the motor mount can be drilled in case you don't have a welder

 

[rjrobin2002]

I added a ground from block to frame and a ground strap from body to frame back by the fuel pump and my fuel pump still was not running, but I had 12 volts to my inertia switch. I decided I was going to replace my ground for my fuel pump and found that my fuel pump positive wire had pulled off my pump.
I plugged it in and had a functioning fuel pump and 40PSI to my fuel rail. I turned the key and it did not even at like it was thinking about cranking. I took a close look at the engine and found my harness connecter to the distributor was unplugged. I plugged it in and it fired up with a perfect idle.
I was amazed to say the least. I still don't have my O2 sensors mounted in my exhaust or put a timing light on it to fine tune it.

 

[rjrobin2002]

This is proof anyone can do this with the help of the search function on this site, so there was not another EFI thread where I was asking what a ACT sensor, what distributor to use, what MAF, and so on.

 

[beaux312]

Sweet. Glad you found the problem.

 

[broncoitis]

Sweet. Glad you found the problem.

X2 on that! Those little Gremlins can be a frustrating thing sometimes. %)