efi swap won't start

[Ourobos]

I've had that happen. Was getting fuel, spark, but wouldn't start.. My spark was an orangish color. Ohm'd the coil and it was low. New coil, and bam fired right up. Good luck.

 

[67EB_in_619]

while it might not be his problem, injectors being clogged or stuck is not the only problem you can have with fuel with good pressure. If your ECT goes bad, the computer reads that as something crazy like -40* and dumps a shit-ton of fuel in there and floods out. You should be flooding anyway if it IS squirting fuel and not starting with all that cranking.

So ... spraying the starting fluid in there tested to see if you have a LACK of fuel problem... now try this to see if you might have a OVER fuel problem:

Crank on it a couple times with no pedal..if it is flooding.. let it flood.. then crank on it with the pedal floored (EEC wont squirt fuel WOT when not running by design)... see if it catches at all by burning the fuel previously flooded but not adding more (if that makes sense)

Not saying this is your problem, but it is one more easy thing to check before pulling your injectors and trying to clean them based on a youtube video.... and since it didnt start when squirting fluid in directly, that probably wouldnt get it started anyway.

 

[EB Passed down]

i will try that. the plugs aren't wet just golden brown.

 

[EB Passed down]

so when i got home i tried holding it to the floor and cranking - nothing. this thing cranks like you unhooked the coil wire and has no chance of a spark. i ohm'ed out the coil and it passed .8 ohms primary and 8.9k on the secondary. the terminal going to the dizzy looked corroded and worn hard. even though it passed i think i might replace it looks very worn on that terminal.

 

[67EB_in_619]

pull a plug and crank it... see if you get fuel. I would have expected you to smell *some* fuel with the cranking if you had a spark problem.

Do you have a noid light? (used to confirm injectors are getting a signal to squirt)

How much starting fluid did you spray in there and where did you spray it? (ahead or after the TB?)

You can try the loosen the dizzy and rotate it to listen for the injector clicks trick to be sure the HALL effect sensor in the dizzy is telling the EEC to squirt the injectors... you will need a noid light to see it when cranking because you likely wont be able to hear it with the cranking noise.

 

[67EB_in_619]

Another way to test that the injectors are squirting is to put a gauge on the fuel rail... crank it up to pressure.. then disconnect the fuel pump and crank again.. if the pressure drops, it was because the fuel was squirted into the motor.. if not, no squirting.

 

[EB Passed down]

i don't have a noid light. i sprayed in the throttle body and i think quite a bit. i will try the fuel pressure gauge trick tomorrow and crank with the plug out. that's the weird thing i don't smell any fuel anywhere. it doesn't put or sputter or pop not a sound but cranking over. thanks.

 

[Broncobowsher]

You did use the dangerous flammable spray at the throttle body and not the safety non-flammable version, right?

You checked for spark at the plug, not just the coil. I had a coil wire go bad once and a rotor another. Had good spark at the coil. Didn't have squat at the plug.

 

[EB Passed down]

very flammable flame thrower kinda stuff and i do have spark at the plugs. maybe what i think is a lot of carb cleaner is not enough.

 

[lonesouth]

any chance the firing order was messed up in all the fiddling?

 

[EB Passed down]

i'm pretty careful, pulling 1 wire at a time. waiting for it to warm up a little to get started working on it again today. it's sitting around 28 out side and i don't have heat in my garage.

 

[EB Passed down]

so i plugged the fuel pressure gauge back on cranked and got 40 psi. then disconnected the fuel pump and cranked again and there was no fuel pressure drop. so does that mean the injectors aren't opening?

 

[67EB_in_619]

Thats what I would say.
My guess is that if the dizzy is spinning then either the hall effect in there isnt sending the signal to the EEC to tell it to squirt, or EVERYTHING is clogged shut (seems unlikely).

buy one of these... SUPER handy for diagnosing things and cheap:
https://www.google.com/search?q=efi...j7&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8

plug that into a injector pig tail and crank it.. if the light doesnt flash, dizzy... if it does, injectors... at least that is my assumption based on info provided.

 

[EB Passed down]

i just had a friend stop by and he says my carb cleaner was not flammable enough. we tried some different stuff and it tried to fire.

 

[Ourobos]

Possibly fuel delivery issue then. Do you hear your pump prime when you turn the key on, then it turns itself off a few seconds later? Still leaning on injectors if the carb cleaner made a difference.

 

[EB Passed down]

fuel pumps come on when you turn the key to start prime and shut off.

 

[67EB_in_619]

thats good!!!!!
See my previous on the noid light.. you can also do the whole "loosen the dizzy and rotate it to listen for the injectors clicking" trick if you dont want to wait..

Closing in on it... youll have her running by the weekend!

 

[EB Passed down]

so when you're turning the dizzy is that with the motor not cranking? is the hall effect sensor that thing bolted to the dizzy? can you change that without disassembling the dizzy? i ask because i have another 5.0 on the engine stand out of a t-bird with the dizzy still in it.

 

[Ourobos]

That's with the key on. Hall sensor is inside the distributor, and rather difficult to change. The piece on front of the distributor is the TFI module (Thin Film Ignition).

 

[EB Passed down]

so just loosen the dizzy and turn and i should hear the injector click. if it clicks wouldn't that mean it opened? if it opens why wouldn't it spray fuel?