Electronic choke

[Chester allen]

Hello trying to connect my electronic choke i have gone with a 1 wire alternator so the voltage regulator is removed now wjere can i find a key on 12v position to plug this wire into im having trouble finding a key on 12v wire thank you.

 

[Oldtimer]

Green with red stripe (GR/RD) that went to the voltage regulator is 12v key ON power.

 

[DirtDonk]

Also, what type of 1-wire alternator? FORD or GM? Or maybe semi unique aftermarket?
Just wondering if you can splice into an existing stator wire, even though it’s an internally regulated alternator.

Otherwise, what Oldtimer said. Since you got rid of your old regulator, the old Green w/red wire is no longer used.
And it’s only powered when the key is in the ON position and not in the ACC position. So you can listen to the radio for extended periods and not warm up the choke prematurely.

 

[Chester allen]

Green with red stripe (GR/RD) that went to the voltage regulator is 12v key ON power.

I have a volt meter hooked up to it and that small green with red stripe wire only reads about .3v with key on and off

 

[Chester allen]

Also, what type of 1-wire alternator? FORD or GM? Or maybe semi unique aftermarket?
Just wondering if you can splice into an existing stator wire, even though it’s an internally regulated alternator.

Otherwise, what Oldtimer said. Since you got rid of your old regulator, the old Green w/red wire is no longer used.
And it’s only powered when the key is in the ON position and not in the ACC position. So you can listen to the radio for extended periods and not warm up the choke prematurely.

Im not to sure it’s a power master off summer racing

 

[Broncobowsher]

I don't remember wire colors for stock stuff.
But it is the wire for the "I" terminal on the stock fender mounted voltage regulator. Keep in mind it is only hot in run, not accessory. Just in case you are trying to do voltage checks in accessory position.

 

[DirtDonk]

Im not to sure it’s a power master off summer racing

Nice. Got a part number handy?

 

[DirtDonk]

I don't remember wire colors for stock stuff.
But it is the wire for the "I" terminal on the stock fender mounted voltage regulator.

You mean it’s the “S” terminal. The “I” terminal is the one that’s blank on Fords with an ammeter.

Keep in mind it is only hot in run, not accessory. Just in case you are trying to do voltage checks in accessory position.

Good call. Hopefully that’s the issue here.

 

[SLOWnEASY]

But isn't the S terminal only hot during crank?

 

[DirtDonk]

Not the S terminal of the regulator. Only the S and I terminals of the starter relay.
Remember to keep those separated in conversation. Voltage regulator is one thing, starter relay is another, with the two lettered connections having completely different functions.

 

[Broncobowsher]

That is probably where I got confused on the I-terminal as well. Thinking of the starter circuit and just translated that straight into the regulator circuit.

Back to the basics. The stock voltage regulator has 4 connections. The most important and often forgotten is the body is grounded to the inner fender. That leaves 3 wires.
One wire goes to the field on the alternator. That is the throttle and controls the alternator output.
Another wire goes to the battery. This is what actually reads the battery voltage. Actual alternator output may be a higher voltage than the battery voltage due to voltage drop in the wiring. To get the battery charged fully, it looks at the actual battery voltage, not charging system output voltage.
Third wire is the subject of the matter. This is tied to the ignition switch. It turns on the charging system. When you turn the key to run it wakes up the regulator.

The stock charging system and choke setup was pretty trick. By using the stator post to run the choke, it only had power if the alternator was actively charging. Key on, no power to the choke. You could leave the key on and the choke won't start opening. You have to have a running, and warming up engine, for the choke to to be opening. If you are doing something with the key on, but the engine not running, choke will stay closed. Where going straight to a switched source the choke will start warming up right away. Even without a running engine that is warming up. In today's hobby car world, this isn't that big of a deal. Not too many people are daily driving this stuff in wicked winter conditions. Working on stuff under the hood with the key on trying to solve some issue just to get to work in the morning.

 

[Chester allen]

Nice. Got a part number handy?

I want to say it is 8-57141

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks. I’ll check it out.

 

[jamesroney]

That is probably where I got confused on the I-terminal as well. Thinking of the starter circuit and just translated that straight into the regulator circuit.

Back to the basics. The stock voltage regulator has 4 connections. The most important and often forgotten is the body is grounded to the inner fender. That leaves 3 wires.
One wire goes to the field on the alternator. That is the throttle and controls the alternator output.
Another wire goes to the battery. This is what actually reads the battery voltage. Actual alternator output may be a higher voltage than the battery voltage due to voltage drop in the wiring. To get the battery charged fully, it looks at the actual battery voltage, not charging system output voltage.
Third wire is the subject of the matter. This is tied to the ignition switch. It turns on the charging system. When you turn the key to run it wakes up the regulator.

The stock charging system and choke setup was pretty trick. By using the stator post to run the choke, it only had power if the alternator was actively charging. Key on, no power to the choke. You could leave the key on and the choke won't start opening. You have to have a running, and warming up engine, for the choke to to be opening. If you are doing something with the key on, but the engine not running, choke will stay closed. Where going straight to a switched source the choke will start warming up right away. Even without a running engine that is warming up. In today's hobby car world, this isn't that big of a deal. Not too many people are daily driving this stuff in wicked winter conditions. Working on stuff under the hood with the key on trying to solve some issue just to get to work in the morning.

Here's another way to say the same thing:

The Voltage regulator has 5 connections. I, A, S, F, and GND:
"I" is for Indicator Lamp (not Ignition) If you have an ammeter, there is no Indicator bulb and this terminal is not connected.
"A" is for Armature.
"S" is for Switched Ignition (nothing to do with the Stator)
"F" is for Field.
"GND" is for Ground

The factory electric choke is wired also as you say...but with a caveat. The stator post is connected inside the alternator prior to the rectifier. This means that the stator outputs AC voltage. AC voltage works great on things like light bulbs, and resistors. (and choke heaters!) Totally useless for any electronic purpose. Do not be tempted to connect your Stator post to anything that wants 12VDC.

Ford uses the same part number regulator for cars with ammeters, and charge light bulbs. So it can be confusing if you are working on a Mustang with an idiot light, and move to a Bronco with an ammeter.

 

[DirtDonk]

"S" is for Switched Ignition (nothing to do with the Stator)

Unless, of course, you are wiring a vehicle with an indicator lamp. And since you were talking about both types here...
In which case, the S wire position on the regulator is literally wired to the STATOR post on the back of the alternator.
On later vehicles with the electric choke, it does both by splitting the wire into two. With one going to the choke, and the other going to the stator terminal of the regulator.

The "official" names aside, that's why I mentally remember them as "switched hot" and "always hot" just for the sake of easy remembering what does what.
But the "S" does stand for stator and the "A" for armature, as you said.

Paul

 

[jamesroney]

My dad always told me that the letters meant different things whether you had an “idiot” light or a gauge. And yeah, with a bulb it was “Idiot, Armature, Stator, Field and Ground.”
Gage it was “Ignore, Armature, Switch, Field and Ground.”

He had some less than polite ways of remembering resistor colors as well…Bringing back fond memories.

 

[Chester allen]

Green with red stripe (GR/RD) that went to the voltage regulator is 12v key ON power.

howdy old timer i have a question that wire that is green with a red stripe does not reed 12v with key on or off I'm only getting .3v on my meter any idea why or another source i can go to? thank you

 

[DirtDonk]

Probably, but I would first find out what’s wrong with that wire. It might lead you to other potential issues.
And you are reading that wire where it’s sticking out of the harness, and not coming off of the old voltage regulator. Correct?

 

[Chester allen]

Probably, but I would first find out what’s wrong with that wire. It might lead you to other potential issues.
And you are reading that wire where it’s sticking out of the harness, and not coming off of the old voltage regulator. Correct?

yes where is directly off the harness my voltage regulator has been taken off

 

[Oldtimer]

Looks like you have a 75 with a 351W (please update your profile with pertinent vehicle information, and City/State you live in).

In a stock harness (non-molested) with the key in ON, the GR/RD wire gets 12v.

There is a RD/YL wire spliced to it to activate a "carburator valve control solenoid". If your Bronco has this circuit, it should be near the carb, and could be used to controll choke heater.
There is also a BL wire spliced to it to power the Duraspark II control module, another source for choke heater.
Both of these splices are labeled S-203 on seabiscuit68's attached schematic. The splice(s) are probablly somewhere in harness between ignition switch and fire wall? Not sure how the 75 routed these wires to engine compartment.
The GR/RD wire then goes thru a connector, C-206, before continuing out to voltage regulator plug.

My guess is that C-206 is a bulkhead connector, but my foggy memory says the the 75 does not have bulkhead connectors?

As DirtDonk points out, you need to figure out why you only have 0.3 volts on GR/RD wire, as other components may not be happy.