Electronic distributor?

[zonian]

Any suggestions on brand/price/vendor for an electronic distributor? What works for you guys?

stock 302, currently points and timing....

 

[DirtDonk]

I've had good luck with several. I run the Ford Duraspark myself, and when I go to EFI finally I'll still be sticking with the obvious Ford TFI computer controlled unit in that case.

The Pertronix, in both Ignitor retrofit form, and as a stand-alone distributor have worked well.

I've had excellent luck with MSD products, including their ready-to-run units. Several members here have not had good luck with different MSD products over the years (mostly the 6AL boxes I think?) so not everyone is happy with them.

While I've never had the chance to use one of the fancy new Mallory units, their Max-Fire and e-Fire distributors are my favorite of the bunch. They're more expensive (although not by much compared to other good ones), but include an internal computer that uses a MAP sensor instead of a vacuum diaphragm, and even allows you to program your own timing curves (both mechanical and vacuum) if the 5 pre-programmed curves don't suit your fancy.
One includes an internal multiple-spark ignition control module, while the other uses a separate external one. Just about the most sophisticated ignitions you can find short of a distributorless setup like the Compu-Tronix.
Would love to try one of those, but probably won't get the chance anytime soon.

I have to at least mention the HEI style units that many here are using. The reports are mixed, with some loving them, some hating them, and some having both good and bad luck with them.
I have not heard any complaints lately about the cheap knockoffs like we heard for awhile, but in the beginning at least, you got what you paid for. The $300 DUI models worked well, while many (too many) of the $100 to $150 units failed quickly. But not for everyone. Some are still running their first $100 eBay special and it's been working well.
Being the old GM design from the '70's and 80's, it's a good design and probably the easiest to wire up. Why I'd NEVER use one is simple. It's just TOO BIG and does not play nice with Bronco components.
You either need a pretty good body lift or you will be cutting out your hood brace. You need a smaller air cleaner housing or they won't work together.

Just like any electronic device though, all of the above pretty much require that you at least give a nod to making your electrical system as good as possible. These distributors like a good ground, and clean 12v connections.

Good luck. Lots to choose from.
Oh, and in the interest in Truth in Advertising department, you may already know I sell both Pertronix and MSD products. But thought I'd mention it anyway.

Paul

 

[americanhorses]

I got the Pertronix billet dist from WH. It was an easy pull out the old and pop in the new. I don't have any road or trail time on it to comment on dependability. But it was easy.

 

[zonian]

Thanks for the detailed info Paul, will be checking your website. I'm looking for something simple and reliable. Thank again.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Duraspark

Affordable, easy to get parts nearly anywhere, works great at a way better price than comparable aftermarket stuff.

 

[SteveL]

I've been running the DUI's in both broncos for over 15 years. No problems at all besides standard maintenance. They also clean up the wiring under the hood. Carry a spare module if you go duraspark..

 

[DirtDonk]

...Carry a spare module if you go duraspark..

That's true of any electronic device that can leave you totally stranded.
I don't care if it's a Duraspark (which never let me down yet) or Pertronix or a GM HEI module. A spare is just cheap insurance.
Literally!

For the Pertronix, instead of a spare $80 module, you simply carry your old points plate already set up and waiting to get screwed in place of the electronic one.
With the Duraspark or HEI, you simply carry a $30 spare. Although here again, as with most things, spending more even for a spare is not a bad idea. That way you can install it and leave it, and simply buy a new one to be your spare.
And a better one is maybe less likely to fail before you get home as well!

Paul

 

[hotrodtim68]

Ford Duraspark

X2 on the Ford duraspark; Just finished my installation, such a big difference from the points distributor . A very noticeable difference on start ups , and idle ; provided your fuel delivery is at optimum. I gathered all used parts from fellow members here on the forum, bought new components such as distributor cap rotor, wires, & coil. I even replaced all Ford connectors with Delphi weatherpack pin connectors. Purchased from Performanceplusconnection ; located in Charlotte, N.C. Now I have plug and play. Good luck!!!!

 

[jckkys]

The Duraspark transistor modules had problems with heat at first, but by about 1980 they were more dependable than any after market ignition. The point about part availability is valid. Few small towns have speed shops but Duraspark parts can be found anywhere. Mine has had no problems for over 30 yrs. Plugs and wires are the only parts I've replaced. I carry a spare fuel filter and tire.

 

[DirtDonk]

The GM HEI's had a HUGE problem with heat-reduced reliability when they first came out too. Mounted inside the distributor, they were particularly susceptible to it. Especially when someone that didn't know better, installed a replacement without using the thermal compound/paste. Back then in fact (very much pre-computer) most people had probably never even heard of the concept of thermal paste.

In today's world, the issue would have probably netted a recall or fines or court battles or all of the above I'm sure. It did for Ford's TFI modules, and I'd have to say they failed much less frequently than the early HEI setups.

That was then though, and this is now. And one of the better/cooler spares to carry is sometimes an HEI module modded to work with the Duraspark setup. They're smaller and less expensive typically than a replacement Duraspark, and half the fun is from creating your own Frankenstein ignition module that works well, is easy to carry as a spare, is relatively inexpensive, can be quickly swapped out on the trail or in the mall parking lot, and best of all, you can say you made yourself!

There was another discussion about this not long ago in fact, with some good pics of what members here had done to make HEI modules work on their rigs. Sticking them inside an old gutted out Duraspark module case works well.
Pretty cool stuff.

Paul

 

[Teal68]

Lots of options, but the Pertronix ignitor to replace the points is the simplest, quickest, and easiest in my opinion. I have never had a single problem with them in three different vehicles. If you go this route be sure to connect to full 12 volts keyed and starting.

 

[broncobusted]

I just picked up the pertronix ignitor in my city. It was 96$. Going to install this weekend

 

[bronconut73]

I am using the Jegs branded Pertronix billet vacuum advance distributor.
Has been flawless so far.
Ran a mechanical advance Mallory Unilite for about twenty years but only about 9,000 miles. It never let me down but I wanted vacuum advance for better part throttle drivability and the vacuum advance Jegs branded Pertronix met my price point expectations best.

 

[adl3026]

Is the pertronix a direct swap for the unilite?

 

[clarrance]

I just left the local Speed shop. I went to buy a Petronix Ignitor II module to carry as a spare for my Flame Thrower billet distributor. Come to find out the billet distributor uses a special Ignitor. The same Ignitor is used for all Petronix Billet distributors no matter what the brand. And of course they didn't have one in stock. They had plenty of the regular igniters, II's & III's, but not the one that fits the billet distributors. I think I'm going to go back to a Dura Spark for simplicity reasons.

 

[DirtDonk]

Is the pertronix a direct swap for the unilite?

If you mean a Unilite distributor, you'll have to call Pertronix with your part number maybe. They make a direct replacement for a Mallory points type distributor, but not sure about one originally equipped with a Unilite.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

...They had plenty of the regular igniters, II's & III's, but not the one that fits the billet distributors. I think I'm going to go back to a Dura Spark for simplicity reasons.

While I'm a Duraspark fan and run it in mine, I can hardly agree that going that route is "simpler" in any regard except maybe for finding new parts locally. Which is probably what you were saying in the first place anyway, but that "simple" comment made me chuckle.
Lots of members here would disagree after fiddle-farting around with the Ford wiring!

On your original direction though, there's nothing that says you can't get a replacement module for the distributor you have, right? Just special order it and have it handy if you ever do need it. Shouldn't take but a few days I wouldn't think. Got your spare and didn't have to buy and wire an entirely new ignition system out of frustration over one spare part.
Therein lies the main advantage to using the standard Pertronix swaps in a stock distributor though. If you ever get stuck without a module, you simply swap your original points plate back in and you're back on the road. Then when you get back to town you can get a new module only.
Several of my local auto stores stock the Ignitor and Ignitor II's kits now, as do we at WH of course. Probably wouldn't hurt for us to have one or two of the "X" modules too, which are the modules alone with no kit. A little less expensive than buying a whole kit as a spare when you don't need to.

So I hear you on using something that everyone is going to have the spare parts in stock for, but I hate to see you swap all that nice expensive stuff out and go through the re-wire process (adding a resistor too) because of someone not having what you needed.
Down the road maybe, when you're redoing the engine bits anyway maybe?

Paul

 

[clarrance]

While I'm a Duraspark fan and run it in mine, I can hardly agree that going that route is "simpler" in any regard except maybe for finding new parts locally. Which is probably what you were saying in the first place anyway, but that "simple" comment made me chuckle.
Lots of members here would disagree after fiddle-farting around with the Ford wiring!

On your original direction though, there's nothing that says you can't get a replacement module for the distributor you have, right? Just special order it and have it handy if you ever do need it. Shouldn't take but a few days I wouldn't think. Got your spare and didn't have to buy and wire an entirely new ignition system out of frustration over one spare part.
Therein lies the main advantage to using the standard Pertronix swaps in a stock distributor though. If you ever get stuck without a module, you simply swap your original points plate back in and you're back on the road. Then when you get back to town you can get a new module only.
Several of my local auto stores stock the Ignitor and Ignitor II's kits now, as do we at WH of course. Probably wouldn't hurt for us to have one or two of the "X" modules too, which are the modules alone with no kit. A little less expensive than buying a whole kit as a spare when you don't need to.

So I hear you on using something that everyone is going to have the spare parts in stock for, but I hate to see you swap all that nice expensive stuff out and go through the re-wire process (adding a resistor too) because of someone not having what you needed.
Down the road maybe, when you're redoing the engine bits anyway maybe?

Paul

I agree with you, I guess what I was really wanting to say (and i didn't) was on my next electronic swap I will probably use the Dura Spark. I am going to leave my billet dist alone and just purchase he "X" module just in case I need it.

 

[DirtDonk]

In your case I don't know if they designate it with an X or not. Might still have to call them. ----- So I just did...;D
As I was typing about giving them a call, it occurred to me that I should do it myself.

Good thing too, since I've been giving out incorrect info for awhile now. Memory fade at work, but the suffix is "0" (zero) instead of "X" like I was saying.
So, for someone with an Ignitor conversion, you simply add that -0 to the end of the part number and that's your module alone, with nothing else.

In your case, and for anyone with a Pertronix billet Distributor for a V8, the module part number is: D500700 so that's what you would order.
In this case, it does come with a simple plate, but it's not necessarily needed. If all you need is the new module, you simply unscrew it from the plate and drop it in your existing distributor for an even simpler installation. Has a couple of alignment pins/dowels to locate it precisely.

There ya go!

Paul

 

[ntsqd]

The GM HEI's had a HUGE problem with heat-reduced reliability when they first came out too. Mounted inside the distributor, they were particularly susceptible to it. Especially when someone that didn't know better, installed a replacement without using the thermal compound/paste. Back then in fact (very much pre-computer) most people had probably never even heard of the concept of thermal paste.

In today's world, the issue would have probably netted a recall or fines or court battles or all of the above I'm sure. It did for Ford's TFI modules, and I'd have to say they failed much less frequently than the early HEI setups.

That was then though, and this is now. And one of the better/cooler spares to carry is sometimes an HEI module modded to work with the Duraspark setup. They're smaller and less expensive typically than a replacement Duraspark, and half the fun is from creating your own Frankenstein ignition module that works well, is easy to carry as a spare, is relatively inexpensive, can be quickly swapped out on the trail or in the mall parking lot, and best of all, you can say you made yourself!

There was another discussion about this not long ago in fact, with some good pics of what members here had done to make HEI modules work on their rigs. Sticking them inside an old gutted out Duraspark module case works well.
Pretty cool stuff.

Paul

Currently running an "8 pin" HEI module on my DD '65 Valiant's 170 Leaning Tower of Power (sic). Failed one of those modules due to heat. Mostly my fault for not thinking thru the mounting. Have seen Mopar guys do the same thing, gut the mopar ign module and hide an HEI module inside it, keeping the OE connector.

I'm running the HEI in prep for converting to a TBI system and have modified a 4.3 V6 TBI dizzy to fit the Slant. Been doing that conversion in steps.

Gotta say that the engine runs better on the HEI module than it does on the mopar module, using exactly the same mopar dizzy for the trigger. If I ever have a D-S II module fail I'll probably gut the housing and convert it to use an HEI module.