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engine cranks but no spark

laserfish

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2015
Messages
130
Helping a friend with his 74 scout. Suddenly we are not getting any spark at the plugs or points. Replaced the coil with a known working unit and still no spark. Having an HEI on my Bronco, check my memory here. The wire going to the +side of the coil should be 12v with key on, correct? We get 0v at the +side of the coil. Can we jump directly to the pos battery terminal to get power? Negative side of the coil goes to the points, correct?
What to check next? Thanks guys, seems I am always working on someone else's problems!
 

suckerpunched

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2006
Messages
882
you need voltage to the + side. you can jump it from battery. most likely there is either a resistor or a resistor wire cutting the voltage to approximately 9 volts with engine running but you can run it on 12v for a bit to test it.
if it runs with a jumper wire then you need follow your power source back towards the ignition switch to find why there is no voltage to coil.
bad switch, bad wire, bad resistor, bad connection. etc
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,371
Is it a purely stock ignition system? Or could there be something like an MSD control module connected? If so you will not see voltage at the positive side.
But yes, if it's remotely stock in it's layout, you would need power there.

Just remember when jumpering the positive of an ignition, to even stop the engine you need to pull the wire. The key won't do it obviously.

Paul
 
OP
OP
laserfish

laserfish

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2015
Messages
130
This is a totally stock distributor and 345 V8. Thanks for the memory prod about having to pull the wire to kill it.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,371
Hah! Yeah, lots of stories about doing this and then in the heat of the moment trying to figure out how to turn it off!

Not sure if the Scouts used a ballast resistor mounted on a ceramic base (like Chrysler and others) or a resistor wire like Ford and GM did on most vehicles.
But possible failure points for not getting power to the coil might be:

1. Ignition switch. Wire should run direct from switch without stopping anywhere other than a possible resistor.

2. The wire itself, perhaps being broken where it runs through the firewall. Or at a connector. Most of the OE's tried to do without many, or any connectors on that circuit if they could avoid it. But even our Broncos had the one at the firewall, and then some years had a connector not far from the ignition switch so you could replace the resistor wire as a package if it ever failed.

3. Look closely under the hood at the wire or connectors, as that's where the "weather" is the worst.

4. If he's not had the vehicle that long, hunt around for the wire and follow it all the way to make sure there are no kill-switches installed by the PO at some point.

5. Make sure the key was in RUN/ON rather than ACC position. Ignitions and voltage regulators are typically not hot in ACC.

6. Even without a voltage signal, don't forget to check under the distributor cap and all that other stuff. He might be fighting more than one issue.
Not that our beloved old trucks would ever do that to us!%)

Good luck. Get it runnin'!

Paul
 
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