Explore SERP question

[joshua]

Are both of these pieces needed to be removed?

 

[DirtDonk]

I’ve never heard of the deflector needing to be ground off the inside of the cover, but I might be remembering wrong.
However you absolutely have to remove the fuel pump eccentric cam or the cover will not fit.

 

[DirtDonk]

There was a discussion on this just the other day where it was mentioned about the differences in bolt length and such.
Apparently some can be used as-is, while some have to cut the bolt short. While still others need to shorten the alignment dowel pin.
I don’t know the percentages, so you’ll just have to play it by ear.
Just make absolutely sure that your retaining bolt does not bottom out while it’s being torqued.

 

[joshua]

I’ve never heard of the deflector needing to be ground off the inside of the cover, but I might be remembering wrong.
However you absolutely have to remove the fuel pump eccentric cam or the cover will not fit.

The retaining bolt threaded all the way down by hand. Should be good to torque right?

Also smeared some grease on the cam bolt and dry fit the timing cover. No grease transferred to the new cover. So I should be good there as well right?

 

[DirtDonk]

Sounds good from here. Maybe wait for some more experienced confirmation.

 

[lars]

The deflector remains on the back of the timing cover. An Explorer timing cover will bolt to any small block Ford engine block without modification.

As DirtDonk wrote in post #3, as long as the cam dowel pin doesn't extend beyond the gear and the bolt threads all the way down, you are good to go.

The first half of this is a visual inspection- you can see the dowel pin.

For the second half, find a longer bolt with the same thread (3/8-16 if memory serves) and screw it into the cam until it bottoms. Mark the bolt where the thread disappears into the cam (file mark, Sharpie, what ever) and then remove it. Compare that to the distance the actual cam bolt projects beyond the washer. As long as the latter distance is less than the former, you can use the cam bolt as-is. Something that can be done in less time than it took me to type this, assuming you have a longer bolt handy.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Sometimes the thickness of the cam bolt head and washer are greater than the available space inside the timing cover. It would be wise to check that before you tighten any cover bolts down.

 

[joshua]

The deflector remains on the back of the timing cover. An Explorer timing cover will bolt to any small block Ford engine block without modification.

As DirtDonk wrote in post #3, as long as the cam dowel pin doesn't extend beyond the gear and the bolt threads all the way down, you are good to go.

The first half of this is a visual inspection- you can see the dowel pin.

For the second half, find a longer bolt with the same thread (3/8-16 if memory serves) and screw it into the cam until it bottoms. Mark the bolt where the thread disappears into the cam (file mark, Sharpie, what ever) and then remove it. Compare that to the distance the actual cam bolt projects beyond the washer. As long as the latter distance is less than the former, you can use the cam bolt as-is. Something that can be done in less time than it took me to type this, assuming you have a longer bolt handy.

I think that looks good. I torqued that bolt to 41 ft lbs. It tightened all the way down by hand first.

 

[joshua]

Sometimes the thickness of the cam bolt head and washer are greater than the available space inside the timing cover. It would be wise to check that before you tighten any cover bolts down.

Viperwolf

I put a dab of grease on that bolt in picture above and then fit timing cover on. No grease transferred to the cover. That would mean I’m in the clear correct? Well as far as I have explained. I take full responsibility if this thing implodes!

 

[joshua]

I also removed this slinger. Lmk if that was wrong

 

[DirtDonk]

Did the explorer engine that you pulled all the stuff off of have a slinger?
My guess is that it does use one, so it should remain.
Or you can look it up somewhere I’m sure. But the bottom line is that if the explorer used one, you definitely want it in place.

 

[joshua]

I didn’t pull this. I bought it off a member. I’ve been reading it’s not needed with later timing covers. I thought it may cause an issue if left in place..

 

[DirtDonk]

Gotcha. We’ll see what the others have to say about it.
I’ve got two of them, but one was installed by another member here and the other is still a pile of parts waiting to be found and organized.

 

[joshua]

Gotcha. We’ll see what the others have to say about it.
I’ve got two of them, but one was installed by another member here and the other is still a pile of parts waiting to be found and organized.

I just put it back in.

 

[DirtDonk]

Just to be clear, my last comments were meant to convey that I did not know if it was used or not.

 

[joshua]

Just to be clear, my last comments were meant to convey that I did not know if it was used or not.

Ya. I found some other posts that convinced me to put back. Apparently on the newer motors the slinger is some sort of counter weight on the camshaft. Not sure if that’s true or not. But it wasn’t in the way of anything so I left it.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I would keep the slinger if it fits. Helps direct oil splash off the timing chain from being driven straight into the seal.

 

[joshua]

Can anyone tell what thermostat housing I should order for this? Also I can’t seem to find a picture of where the dip stick is routed and if I need to find an explorer one to make it work. As I still have the boat oil pan in this.

Last thing Is I don’t have a radiator. I should be ordering the reverse style Not the stock one correct?

 

[Broncobowsher]

The 80s and newer 90° housing will probably be the best fit.
What block do you have? Mid 80s and up have a dipstick hole in the block on the driver's side just above the pan rail. If you have that hole you will need to use it or plug it.
Does the boat pan have a dipstick tube provision? dipsticks can be done at least 3 different ways from the factory depending on year and application. No universal answer.

The dipstick and tube have to match each other and where it is mounted at on the engine. Can't tell you what to use because I don't know what options exist for your mix of parts. With just the wrong mix of parts, there might not be any provision for any dipstick.

 

[joshua]

The 80s and newer 90° housing will probably be the best fit.
What block do you have? Mid 80s and up have a dipstick hole in the block on the driver's side just above the pan rail. If you have that hole you will need to use it or plug it.
Does the boat pan have a dipstick tube provision? dipsticks can be done at least 3 different ways from the factory depending on year and application. No universal answer.

The dipstick and tube have to match each other and where it is mounted at on the engine. Can't tell you what to use because I don't know what options exist for your mix of parts. With just the wrong mix of parts, there might not be any provision for any dipstick.

I know the marine tube isn’t going to work.

See image.

It looks like the plugged the vehicle one with a press in plug. I’m trying to figure out how to get that one out.