FiTech EFI pre-order info

[mritchy1]

Any tips on how to get the iac valve down

 

[68stang73]

http://youtu.be/2Wq9KdIbilM. this will explain alot.

 

[bteutsch]

I would like to suggest That you make sure your butterflies are adjusted closed. There is a an adjustment screw on the back left as well as right front. When they are adjusted closed the IAC will be able to control idle better. Return to idle will be faster. I think if air is able to go around through the throttle plates the IAC can't control that. I'll see if I can find the email I got from Bryce about IAC idle steps. I'll go out and look at mine also and see if it's any different than yours in case you've already adjusted the throttle plates.

 

[bteutsch]

You may be fine read this from Bryce, I was having trouble with my return to idle.
The TPS reading will zero out every time you key off and allow the EFI save. What you are trying to achieve is to be at idle at operating temp with the IAC position between 5 and 10. To achieve this follow the steps below.

1. Bring engine up to operating temp. (around 180)
2. On the handheld go to Dashboard
3. Observe the TPS, IAC Steps, and Coolant temp readings
4a. If IAC Steps is zero and RPM is above target slowly close primary throttle blade screw (1/8 turn at a time) till IAC Steps start to raise to target 5-10 range.
4b. If IAC Steps are anything above 10 slowly open the primary throttle blade screw (1/8 turn at a time) until IAC Steps lower to the target 5-10 range.

NOTE: If TPS reading is 1.5 or higher the EFI doesn’t think the engine is in IDLE so it will raise IAC as a follower feature. To reset TPS just key off an allow EFI to power off. When EFI has saved the handheld values will go blank.


Bryce Cegielski
FiTech Fuel Injection
12370 Doherty St. Suite A
Riverside, CA 92503

Phone – 951-340-2624
bryce@FiTechEFI.com

 

[mritchy1]

Thank you guys I will give it a try

 

[Knuck]

Curious if this distributor will work with the FiTech system?

Mallory 4755101

 

[DirtDonk]

You might call FiTech if you haven't already, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.
After all, if you're talking about having the computer control the timing, the things you have to make sure of are that the advance mechanism can be locked out, and the trigger signal is compatible.

If I remember, it's just a 2-wire distributor. Red for power, and Green for triggering the coil directly (no external ICM). So as long as the computer can see and read that trigger signal, it should be able to change the timing.
Granted, I haven't read up on all the little ins-and-outs of having the different companies ECM's working with the different distributors, but it seems like it would work.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[tony-runner]

You might call FiTech if you haven't already, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.
After all, if you're talking about having the computer control the timing, the things you have to make sure of are that the advance mechanism can be locked out, and the trigger signal is compatible.

If I remember, it's just a 2-wire distributor. Red for power, and Green for triggering the coil directly (no external ICM). So as long as the computer can see and read that trigger signal, it should be able to change the timing.
Granted, I haven't read up on all the little ins-and-outs of having the different companies ECM's working with the different distributors, but it seems like it would work.

Good luck.

Paul

It should work but call tech support just in case. Another issue you have to figure out is a way to phase the rotor. Thats why they like the MSD or MSD compatible (TSP) distributors that you can install the phasable rotor add on.

 

[Knuck]

Ok, thanks. After posting that, I saw that some folks have been using a TSP distributor, so I may end up going that route since its over $100 cheaper.

 

[TDubya]

Yes, turns out we already have the 400's on order. That was the third part number I saw last week, but thought it was another version of the Command Center.
So they're in the pipeline.

Any reason (other than the obvious cost savings) that you don't want the computer to control the timing too?
On the fence at all?

Thanks

Paul

Cost savings and maybe one less thing to go wrong...I'm still using the stock Duraspark distributor with a Crane ignition box.

 

[68stang73]

anyone have an idea on which MSD distributor to use with the fitech? I thought I saw a part number somewhere but I cannot find it. running a 351w.

 

[smokinjoe]

Reading all 19 pgs of this thread among others I think concludes my research. I'm pulling the trigger on the 400 HP kit w/ the fuel command center. More than likely it'll first go in the Stang but eventually I'll probably grab a second kit for the EB as well.

One last question, was anyone ever able to figure out ECU replacement? I know the TPS, IAC, 02 Sensors were all discovered to be GM off the shelf but was about the ECU, was this proprietary to FItech, would they be our only resource should the ECU fail?

Oh BTW, post #1,000, I'm a chatty cathy %)

 

[Knuck]

I was leaning towards using the Fuel Command Center and still may end up using it. The reason is that FiTech support has stated that in off camber situations the motor can starve for fuel due to the needle/seat/float configuration within the Command Center. Exploring other options at the moment. Still going with the 400hp system, just not sure about using the Fuel command center at this point. The Pros of it may end up outweighing the Cons, just not 100% sold on it yet.

 

[RedLeg0811]

I had the fuel commander Mustang conversion I was going to do. I sent it back on the advice of FItech just as Knuck said. I bought the inline pump from them.

I pulled the trigger on the 600. I just decided it made it simple and less money than the Mustang conversion. My time is limited and I want to be able to use the bronco and not have it down forever.

The ECU is from their parent company. They provide ecu for Third world car manufactures, and startup car manufactures. I can understand that as we deal with the big boys at my company and they are a pain. We are going away from Delphi who is a big pain. They would want 100s of thousands of dollars for a flag change. I had heard 1 million, but not sure if that was an exaggeration. Anyway I can see why 3rd world and start up would have to go some place else.

 

[Knuck]

I have factory dual tanks and am considering using an F250 electric fuel supply switch and either a single or dual high pressure pumps. I am thinking a single pump after the switch should be ok if I put the switch close enough to the tanks.

 

[RedLeg0811]

I was going to use the Low pressure ->accumulator ->high pressure, but after reading a bit I am going to try the single HP pump. I will then try different tests and if it works cool. If not I will build an accumulator.

My aux tank I am just using a LP pump to transfer the fuel to the main. I then don't have to worry about a return to the Aux.

 

[Knuck]

I was going to use the Low pressure ->accumulator ->high pressure, but after reading a bit I am going to try the single HP pump. I will then try different tests and if it works cool. If not I will build an accumulator.

My aux tank I am just using a LP pump to transfer the fuel to the main. I then don't have to worry about a return to the Aux.

I had thought about this and may still end up going this route. Aux tank is only 8gal anyway, so the low pressure transfer pump does make a lot of sense.

 

[MikeKC130J]

I have came to the conclusion that I'm going with the Fitech 400 hp going in my 75, sold on summit with a 75$ mail in rebate and free shipping. Now to find a used 23 gal efi tank?

 

[work765]

If I plan on upgrading down the road to a larger gas tank. I'm wondering what is the best fuel situation for the fitech 400? Pump in sump, inline from fitech or the command center? Someone mentioned one wasn't good on off camber stuff. I will never be crawling my bronco, but lite trail ridding yes. But it's mainly a daily driver.
Is one scenario optimal?

 

[DirtDonk]

Either the Fuel Command Center or an inline pump on the frame would allow you to set up your delivery system now, and then change tanks later without having to modify your existing setup.
I'm still a fan of in-tank pumps however, and feel that this is the way to go when it's an option.

So in your case, while it's certainly still an option to go with an in-tank pump when you change tanks, it's more work and cost to you. If you need to set up your fuel system well before the tank purchase, then go with door #1 or #2.
It's not what's best for the FiTech system. It's what's best for you.

Paul