Front end steering replacement

[kat]

Mark,
Because I'm familiar with this Bronco I know none of the ball joints are sloppy or worn so you have two options:
Option 1. Buy this drag link and you will have to cut about 3/4" of threads off each end to make it work as well as ream the pitman arm or buy a 75 or earlier pitman arm.
http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/adjustable-drag-link-t-style-66-75-early-ford-bronco-new
Option 2. Get the complete Y to T conversion and either ream the pitman arm or buy the 75 or earlier pitman arm.
http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/steering-linkage-conversion-from-inverted-y-to-t-style-76-77

The latter of the two is the better in my opinion because it is matched to work together...but a bit more expensive of course. I only mentioned option one because I know the ball joints on the existing tie rod have no slop.

Additionally, there are several comments about an adjustable trac bar. Knowing the front axle is centered already and there is no bumpsteer I would not bother with getting an adjustable trac bar.

sykanrOng,
That would be scary, but that is not welded together there even though it looks suspect in that photo.

Thanks Tyler, I ordered Option 2 and got the whole set. And since Im going to put a different lift kit on it I went ahead and ordered the adjustable trac bar. Better safe than sorry....

 

[redwards69]

Looks like the people that did my steering did yours.

 

[kat]

Doesn't look very aerodynamic

 

[C Saporito]

Looks like the people that did my steering did yours.

Looks downright Medieval! Lol

 

[Seventee]

^ ditch the stabilizer, it only "mask" real problems and doesn't do anything useful.

I used to believe this until I had a finger broken by a spinning steering wheel. Replacing a $50 part could well have saved me $3000, pins in my finger and 6-weeks without full use of my left hand.

True it shouldn't be used to fix or mask other problems, but it is there to help absorb shock loads to the steering system. Your steering box and fingers may thank you some day.

 

[broncodriver99]

I used to believe this until I had a finger broken by a spinning steering wheel. Replacing a $50 part could well have saved me $3000, pins in my finger and 6-weeks without full use of my left hand.

True it shouldn't be used to fix or mask other problems, but it is there to help absorb shock loads to the steering system. Your steering box and fingers may thank you some day.

I agree. It was put there for a reason as they still are on many new vehicles. They are not there to correct a problem but to prevent one. There is no reason not to run one.

 

[Justafordguy]

Hey kat, Don't forget the many 1 ton steering conversions available. The kit I installed is made by Extreme Custom Fab and is made to fit the 76 - 77 front end. It is super strong and really helps the feel of the steering over the old Y type.

 

[JefeAZ]

Noticeable difference with that sway bar?

 

[moses_m]

X2 on the hemi 1 ton steering linkage. Great control on the road and aggressive off road. I grabbed the ones from toms. Check your knuckles after all the new linkage is installed to make sure they dont hit the rims. I had buy spacers for my current rims.

 

[Justafordguy]

Noticeable difference with that sway bar?

Yes, way better in corners.Almost no body lean now. I did front and rear but have removed the rear because it made it a little to tight. These are the cheaper addco bars but I have heard good things about the Hellwig also.

 

[JefeAZ]

We need to see a straight-on pic while the rig is sitting on its own weight.

Heres that shot. You can see the passenger side spring is being forced towards the drivers side. Besides the adj track bar, anything else I should be looking at doing? I have never had it aligned either. Been waiting on getting the ride height set and I am just about ready

 

[Whoaa]

^...as you already knew, and I agree from looking at this pic, adding an adjustable trac bar will allow you to center the front end.

With the use of the drop pitman and trac bar riser on the axle housing, the trac bar and drag link are very parallel...this Bronco should have excellent driveability!

And FWIW these new style progressive rate [lift] coil springs commonly have a little bulge here or there. This is just the way they're made -for ride quality.
They can be deceiving. Just because it appears that one or both of the springs has a little "sway" or "bulge" doesn't necessarily mean the front end isn't centered. Although this can be in indicator.

The only sure way to know for sure is to take some measurements. Measure from each side of the diff housing to the frame, make some comparable measurements on the rear housing as a reference, and then "center" the front housing between the frame. You may need to hang a plumb bob to mark a couple of exact places to take the measurements from. Often times these old Bronco have some variance because quality control from the factory 40 years wasn't the best, and this means the front and rear diff housing most likely aren't going to be exactly "centered" in reference to each other within the frame. But you can the front housing very close and find a happy medium. Patients. Take your time and keep re-checking and double checking all of your measurements as you dial in the trac bar to center this front end.

And there isn't much magic about an alignment. Its nice to know and have a fancy print out -I have gotten them also.
-The camber is "set" based on the outter [inner] C structure that's welded to the front end housing, and to a lesser amount the ball joints can wear and affect this.
-Caster is dictated by what C bushing you're using and amount of lift.
- Which leaves only toe-in...which you can do at home just by using a common tape measure. The toe in amount doesn't have to be exact. Using a tape measure get some accurate measurements from the inside front of the wheel and inside rear of the wheel...assuming the wheels aren't bent most Bronco's are happy with about 1/32" to 1/16" of toe in.

With some patients, you can do this alignment at home w/ the tools and skills you have. And it sure is nice to take it to a proffesional shop afterwards to verify.

I spent a lot of time making slight adjustments to mine to get a modern "4 wheel alignment". A very sharp young tech at our local alignment shop helped educated me on what I wanted to do. Basically, in a perfect world, you want the front and rear axle housing's to be exactly the same distance apart when comparing measurments from inner & outter, and exactly square to each other, and have both of them exactly centered in relation to the frame.

-When you really think about this, its an oxymoron and the front axle housing can *never* always be exactly centered because the design. Everytime the suspension is compressed or unloaded the trac bar shifts the front axle housing one way or another with the scissor effect of the design. Keeping this in mind, don't be fooled into thinking the front end is not "centered" just because one of the coil springs has a little bulge/sway. Because the exact center measurements can and do change everytime the suspension is cycled. The best you do is a find a happy medium within an acceptable range.

Wow...that was long winded, sorry

 

[KBUCK1]

I think you meant adjustable trac bar. The trac bar centers the diff, when the lift is installed it stretches the angles which in effect moves the front diff to the R. The adjustable trac bar allows to center the diff and dial it in to your set up.


For superior driveability the trac bar and drag link need to be parallel. With these series of pic's I can't tell how parallel your set up is. We need to see a straight-on pic while the rig is sitting on its own weight.
That said, one easy solution to making a slightly adjustment to this angle is to move the tie rod to the top of the knuckles (TRO)...this is an easy job. Buy a reamer for under $50 bucks, remove your tie rod end, chuck the reamer in your rechargable drill and ream the hole from the top down -takes about 5 minutes, then put it all back together. This moves the tie rod up about 2-3" and effectively changes the drag link angle in relation to the trac bar, making it more parallel...if needed. Notice in my pic's the tie rod is on top of the knuckle.

However, taking into consideration you're at 3 1/2" of lift, drop pitman arm and using a trac bar riser welded to the housing you may not need to put the tie rod on top...unless you wanna go back to the stock pitman arm

I think he meant to say it shifts the axle left. Towards the driver side. That would make your spring curve that way. Adjustable trac bar is the fix there

 

[Rustytruck]

Kat,

I think you should have a call to arms with some experienced Bronco owners in your area. Kind of a meet and greet. Have a good consensuses on what your Bronco really needs and where you want to take it. Could save you some money and not have to redo stuff as you get further down the road on your project. There are allot of warning signs in the work of this Broncos previous owners.

If they cobbled up this crap where else did they cut other corners. I would pull the drive-shafts and lube them while they are down and check for proper engagement length. I would also check the linkage between the steering box and the column. these are all areas where people cut corners and can lead to safety issues.

We all want you to be safe and here for along time.

 

[Teal68]

Rusty,
Kat bought the Bronco from me. We actually spent time with our backs on the gravel in the driveway. I took the time to point out all the faults from the previous owner. Lift, steering/suspension, body lift, floor repairs, horn, passenger seat latch, the list goes on. I could have missed something, but I feel like I hit it pretty hard and pointed everything out so he knew what he was getting. I even explained his options on the front steering mess. Crazy thing is the previous owner drove it this way for 11 years! As hard as this is to admit the thing drove amazing. No problem doing 70 down the road, and was very tight. I had already started fixing some things before he got and intended to fix all of them before I sold it. In the end though, he wanted it as is to do the work himself and make it his Bronco. I can respect that as I tend to be the same way.

I changed the clutch out so at the same time I cleaned up the tranny, t-case and bell housing and fixed leaks. after I did that it ended up being the only Bronco I have ever had that did not have a any leaks. I also changed out the leaky power steering pump.

Anyhow, I just put that out there so you all knew I was up front with him. We also continue to communicate about any questions or advice he may have. We hope to do some wheeling together in the future! He explained his goals with it, and I look forward to seeing his Bronco transform as I'm sure everybody else will here too.

Along the lines of your excellent advice....Recently I have met a couple more members on here that are great folks, and you make a really good point of him meeting some local members for help and advice. There is about an hour or hour and a half between us. There so many good people on here that are so helpful. That help, advice, and knowlegde is a true asset!

Tyler

 

[Justafordguy]

Kat signed up with our local Bronco group here in Tallahassee, Any of us would be more than happy to give him a hand/advice.

 

[Teal68]

Cool!

Any of you Tally guys going to the sowega fun in Feb? I mentioned it to Kat....you'll pester him some too!

 

[Rustytruck]

I am glad you guys have him covered. Makes for a great bunch of guys/gals.

 

[kat]

There truly is a great bunch of guys on here. And like Tyler said he showed all the good and bad on the truck. Just hoping he can get another Bronco soon...I promise I wont buy that one from ya Tyler..=)
I have already purchased new suspension (delivered) and front linkage (should be here next week). My 21 year old son should be at the house the middle of next week and my plans are for me and him to work on the truck together. He has a Jeep he is real proud of, so going to show him how the other half live and maybe one day he will get a Bronco...I would like for some of us local to hang out one weekend. I don't know if the Georgia meet in Feb, Ill have to do some more research on how far it is...

 

[JefeAZ]

Well lucky me, WH put them on sale this week

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Adjustable_Trac_Bar

Anything else I should add to the order?