Getting amp gauge to work after one wire alternator install

[kayakersteve]

I recently switched to a one wire alterantor that is working great, but I presume due to the one-wire design, have lost my gauge. Anyone know a fix for this???. I left my existing VR in place and the old wires are taped - Can I somehow tap into this for the gauge??

 

[Broncobowsher]

Is the new alternatoer more then 60 amp? if so then don't try to use the stock wiring.
If the new alternator is only a 60 amp unit then all you need to do is remove the wire that goes from the alternater to the battery and attach it to the heavy gauge wire that was on the original battery.

The gauge will only show +-60 amps. The thing is the stock wiring really shouldn't be running that much current muchless what an upgraded alternater can put out.

Generally we ignor the stock gauge and put in a volt meter. Really slick is converting the stock amp meter to be a volt meter. There are instructions on this site somewhere.

 

[Steve83]

The stock amp gauge is inductive - it doesn't run off the IVR. And it's not particularly accurate, or even informative if it's exactly accurate. Install a voltmeter and either delete or ignore that amp gauge.

 

[kayakersteve]

Voltmeter

Is there a replacement voltmeter that will fit the existing gauge cluster?? Supplier??

 

[DirtDonk]

Just out of curiosity kayakersteve, which alternator are you running? And how did you wire it up to the battery? Direct, or with the old alternator's output wire (Black w/yellow stripe)?

Paul

 

[kayakersteve]

1 wire - 200 amp

DirtDonk = Got through BG and it is hooked directly to battery positive via 4 gauge wire from alternator. Has been working great so far, but would love to have some gauge to monitor in case somthing goes wrong. Will switch to voltmeter, just need to determine witch will fit in factory gauge cluster.

 

[DirtDonk]

Several are using the standard Auto-Meter/Auto-Gauge type volt-meters I think. There are a couple of good threads here about it. Maybe even a tech-article over on the left there?
And there is also a thread going on right now about refurbishing gauge clusters that's pretty active over in Chat. (edit: oops, meant right here in Tech)
Try a quick search and see if you can come up with something of use to you.

Good luck. Personally, I love ammeters, but wouldn't try hooking the stock inductive type back up with your alternator, and will eventually go the volt-meter route too.

Paul

 

[Viperwolf1]

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142957

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105291

 

[Steve83]

...would love to have some gauge to monitor in case somthing goes wrong.

The ALT light will tell you that. You do have an ALT light, right? It's simple, effective, & reliable if you wire it the way Ford did.

 

[kayakersteve]

nope

No alt light.

 

[Steve83]

So you have a resistor on that circuit? It should be wired like this:



The S circuit might be external, but it doesn't affect anything.

 

[kayakersteve]

Everything is inside the new alternator

I have it directly wired to positive on battery as instructions say to do.

 

[bmc69]

I have it directly wired to positive on battery as instructions say to do.

Sneaking a volt meter in somewhere is the best way to get an accurate read on what your alternator is doing. And that is true regardless of what alternator setup you are running. I'm sure you've noted that for the last 20 years, vehicles have only volt meters..never ammeters. There is a really good set of engineering reasons for that

 

[kayakersteve]

Did he just wink at me??

BNC - We barely know each other!

 

[DirtDonk]

Nah, he was probably winking at me, for still saying I like ammeters.
While I agree that voltmeters are good, and that there are good reasons to NOT snake that major wire all over the place, I still like what an ammeter can tell me.
Just a resistance to change rearing it's ugly head I guess.

Paul

 

[Steve83]

I have it directly wired to positive on battery as instructions say to do.

There needs to be a few hundred Ohms resistance on the LG/R circuit, as that diagram shows. Try wiring a small bulb in, at least temporarily, to see what's going on. The factory uses a 194 bulb.