Header ball flange leak

[latrucker]

I'm having a problem getting the ball flange to seal on my BC Broncos shorty headers. Does anyone know of any tricks or anything I can use to get them to seal better. One is leaking no matter what I do, just had exhaust redone and it's still leaking. It's causing my Fitech to run rich with the false reading due to the leak.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Vendors marketed those things as an answer without a problem. I've never had a leak on a good old fashioned three bolt flange. The trick it so avoid overtightening it.
To fix yours? You could cut off the ball connections and weld on three bolt flanges. This really shouldn't cost much at a good muffler shop.

 

[latrucker]

Vendors marketed those things as an answer without a problem. I've never had a leak on a good old fashioned three bolt flange. The trick it so avoid overtightening it.
To fix yours? You could cut off the ball connections and weld on three bolt flanges. This really shouldn't cost much at a good muffler shop.

They are shortys so they would have to come off to have it done, major PITA... I am hoping to find some type of gasket or sealant.

 

[Bruners4]

I don't have any experience with header ball flanges yet but always used wheel bearing grease on the cast iron manifold mating surfaces. This was the manifold to head surface and the manifold to exhaust pipe surface. I've even used grease on the fiber gaskets that slip on the pipe at the manifold. Long story but I had spent hours trying to seal up a manifold pipe leak and a co-worker told me to grease the joint. Reassembled it and no more leak!

 

[zman1971]

look and see if there is a thick spot or run from the coating on the ball that might not let it seal

 

[unimogger]

did the ball assembly come with the headers? If so, I'd be on the phone with BC.
The whole idea behind the ball/ socket design is that it's not supposed to leak.
That said, the right way to design it, would be to use a dense conical compression gasket, like what you would find at the manifold connection of millions of production cars. It works.
If they could get away with a cheaper stamped steel ball socket connection, they would have.

 

[pcf_mark]

I've abused my ball collector headers quite a bit and they have never leaked. There must be something on the pipe flange or the ball itself to cause them to leak. Even when they start to stretch (the pipe flange) they keep sealing. Any chance it is just way off axis and the pipe flange is exposing the pipe?

Not trying to be an a$$ but how do you know it is leaking? Is it ticking or hissing from the joint? Or is the FitTech giving you info that is illogical?

 

[DirtDonk]

There are exhaust joint sealing compounds available, similar to a high-temp silicone that you could use to possibly reduce the leaking. Never used it myself, but considering it as I get into those modern stainless tube clamps for the rest of the system.
Something I used to see Edd use on Wheeler Dealers a lot on exhaust joints and junctions.

I can't remember the last time (if ever?) anyone talked about a leaking ball flange. On the other hand, the forums and magazines of old are chock full of never-ending leaky 3-bolt gasket flange stories. And tricks of the trade for making a leak free install. Some of which were not all that permanent either.
In fact, even though Stage-8 fasteners were invented due to a motorcycle header coming loose, it was auto header, and header flange bolts that really put them on the map way back when.

The ball flanges on older stock cast-iron manifolds are not known for leaking either I don't think. And those are sometimes a slightly rough surface too. Smoother than the rest of the manifold perhaps, but not glass smooth. Still no leaks.

In your case latrucker it sounds like it leaks all the time, even immediately after tightening it down? Or does it start out leak free but then work it's way loose?
If the latter, then something like one of the different locking fasteners might do the trick. But if it's just leaking all the time that won't help.

Are you able to determine the exact point of leakage? Or is it all the way around? Either way maybe you can still get in there and massage the female side a little to better conform.
Or even install some Grade-8 bolts to really cinch it down tight to better form the extension tube to the ball that last little bit?

If the extension and female end were supplied with the headers I would also give BC a call to see if they have a solution. At least if yours is just bolted/clamped to the rest of the exhaust.
If it's already fully welded however, then changing is a pain and maybe you can try one of the sealers.

Sorry to hear you're having the problem. Hopefully you can do something that does not involve removing anything!
In the end though, if you have to cut one off and weld in a new one to avoid leakage, it will be worth the extra trouble for the EFI especially.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[latrucker]

Not trying to be an a$$ but how do you know it is leaking? Is it ticking or hissing from the joint? Or is the FitTech giving you info that is illogical?[/QUOTE]Removed the exhaust to install my 4R70W and found this.

 

[latrucker]

After looking at the picture, looks like the socket part isn't true. Might be the whole problem.

 

[pcf_mark]

Solid proof it was leaking!

Agreed the ball is probably bent or dented.

 

[langester]

Pictures are awesome, they tell the story for sure. I bet a little massaging the flange to get it trued up and smooth out the ridge from the pipe seam and it will seal up. When you get it fixed post up what ended up fixing it for sure.
Good luck with it!

 

[red 69]

I've got the ford motorsports gt40 p headers with ball. I cut .03 copper sheet into gasket shape with tin snips and punch. Then heat them cherry red with torch to get them soft. install and torque down. Unbolt 1st one to check final size and contact ring. This does not seal complete ball, but a band going all around. You will have to experiment a bit with dimensions as they will stretch and pucker bit. Bolt holes had to be made as slots.

 

[bax]

I like the copper covered ball idea, even aluminum. could not be that hard to make a copper gasket.

 

[zman1971]

first off start with a quality flange, why spend the money on b.c. headers and then use that?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Probably got dropped at some point, putting a dent in the ball. Manufactur, shipping, installation, who knows when it happened.

 

[Apogee]

My WH shorties included Ø2.5" starter tubes with O2 sensor bungs, and they're much nicer than that flange. While you could beat that into some semblance of workable, I'd just start fresh and make or buy a new one.

 

[latrucker]

Think I'm going to start fresh and order some pre-made sockets to hopefully fit the ball better instead of trying to band-aid as some of you suggested. Im sure the muffler shop made these themselves and that could be the whole problem. Other side seals well so i am going to switch the O2 sensor to that side to hopefully solve my rich exhaust issue until i can get the flange replaced. Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions.

 

[KyddsPly]

Had a similar problem, my brother recommended to cut the ball off and weld a 3 bolt flange. I ended up getting mine to seal after a few re-torques, bu that would’ve been my next step.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[blubuckaroo]

I can understand the flexibility the ball joint allows, but how many actually need that much flexibility?
Good three bolt flanges and lengths of pipes will allow for a lot of twisting.