Header proofing engine bay

[joshua]

I can’t figure out what thread it was in, or I would just reply to it. So I’m going to start a new one. On the other post @jamesroney mentioned not to run long tube headers with a carburetor because of fuel lines.

James hasn’t steered me wrong yet. Initially I had no plans to run any headers, or figure out if there is a performance manifold. But as with this whole build, market place, and here dictates all the choices for the bronco. It’s made out of all the leftovers lol from others builds. These were nice stainless ones and they were very cheap. So if I can I would really like to use them, as I have them, installed them, and the easy on the budget.

All right with why explanation now written, we come to the how can I make it work reliably. If that’s possible in this instance to achieve that goal.

I ran the fuel lines up the back of the motor. They are a braided AN style, wrapped in a space blanket. I also made a stainless steel plate heat shield for the proportioning valve, and also wrapped the brake lines in a space blanket.

Here’s some pictures, I have np hearing that I just need to start over if you guys think I’m headed for problems. Summer is cruising by tho, So if it is a problem I may actually have to buy something new for once lol. But I would like to order now if I need to punt this plan. I’ve had plenty of old fords, just nothing with speed parts. So I haven’t had to deal with this in the past.

 

[JB Fab]

looks like what I did on on of ours.. no problem 25+ years.

 

[gnpenning]

I think this is the thread you are talking about. Joshua@

Thoughts about vapor-lock & mechanical fuel pumps

Boiling fuel is vapor lock. Can achieve boiling fuel at sea level if the temperature is high enough, and it doesn't need to be a record setting heat wave to do it. What I recall from looking into that 10-ish years ago or so was that the light ends of fuel will start to boil in the mid 90's at...

classicbroncos.com

 

[DirtDonk]

If possible, I would add at least a small air gap between that shield and the prop/combination valve.
Even small air gaps are theoretically better than a heat shield that is directly touching the item that it's shielding.

Paul

 

[73azbronco]

did that on mine, looks like an apollo rocket.

 

[joshua]

If possible, I would add at least a small air gap between that shield and the prop/combination valve.
Even small air gaps are theoretically better than a heat shield that is directly touching the item that it's shielding.

Paul

There’s washers in there, maybe I should add a couple more

 

[DirtDonk]

If there’s space there already, then you’re probably good. It was just the angle of the camera probably.
Then again, while you have nothing better to do, you could measure temperatures the way it is, then space it up another washer or two, and then measure again.
Not that you don’t have better things to do, but it would be great knowing what the differences are.

 

[ntsqd]

If possible, I would add at least a small air gap between that shield and the prop/combination valve.
Even small air gaps are theoretically better than a heat shield that is directly touching the item that it's shielding.

Paul

There’s washers in there, maybe I should add a couple more

Was just going to suggest that at least one more flat washer and perhaps two to three more be added between the shield and the p-valve. You appear to have room to do so and while it may or may not help it won't hurt.