Help with an electrical problem

[akirshbom]

I hate to say it, but usually it's so obvious we never think to check. If things are getting as hot as you describe as quickly as you describe, my assumption would be you have a dead short. My guess is a ground somewhere on the battery side of the solenoid. Have you completely disconnected everything from the solenoid?
Once you have, connect the battery to one side and the starter to the other side, assuming you are running the stock bronco starter and not the late model mini starter. Then connect the start wire to the start post. Is it still grounding out the battery? When you turn the key starter should work, but truck should not start.
Ground is elsewhere, recheck every connection as you make them one by one to ident the circuit at fault.

 

[Eastwood]

Ok guys, thanks for the tips. I'm off too the parts store to get new cables and another solenoid. I think I'm going to get the newer style that lays flat. I disconnected the starter this morning and when I hooked the battery up,in about five minutes the the coil began to warm up with the keys removed from the ignition.

 

[Eastwood]

Ok now I'm stumped. I have replaced all three cables and I just put a newer style solenoid on there. I cleaned the ground connection. Now, it does nothing. No spark, bumping, lights don't work. Here's a pic of the solenoid.

 

[Eastwood]

Update! I put the new older style solenoid that has been on it back on and tried it out. It turned over for the first time since this began and then it finally fired up and ran. It must have been one of those other two cables! I don't know why it would work with the newer style solenoid but anyways it runs. Thanks for all you guy's help.

 

[Laxdad]

Eastwood, here is my thread where viper helped me.
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2156280#post2156280

First things first, switching over to the newer solenoid is money in my opinion. I went through 5 of the old style and haven't had one issue with the new style (check out My pics in that thread). I also had grounding issues and a sticking ignition switch. Now I have no issues at all other then a massive sequel from a 130 amp alternator on a single v belt...

Been collecting parts and will be swapping to a explorer serp next weekend.

 

[DirtDonk]

With the new relay/solenoid, are there markings to show you which terminal is which?
Did you try reversing the Brown and Red w/blue wires?

Also, if that's the wrong relay you got (mis-marked in the box perhaps) it could be that it needs a ground to one of the small posts.
There is a group of relays, some for the glow-plugs on Ford diesel engines, where that second small terminal is a ground instead of for the ignition's Brown wire.
Best to do some double checking just in case.
You can do the checking without the starter hooked up too. Just listen for the click.

Would not be the first time the wrong part was put back in a box. Or the wrong part was ordered by the computer in the parts store.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Did you ever check for voltage at the Blue w/red wire?
Anytime that your starter relay energizes without the key on, either it's got an internal short, or something is sending power up that wire to tell the relay to start.

The overheated positive cable when it's trying to start is either a frozen starter, frozen engine, or some sort of partial short-circuit.

Have you tried to turn your motor over by hand? Is it turning easily?
I didn't see where you mentioned that, so I was wondering. Some fluid in the cylinders could easily cause that. If you find it hard to turn over by hand, pull the plugs to make sure there is no liquid in there.
Some of those are long-shots, but at this point you need to look at even the most remote possibilities.

Paul

 

[ransil]

Get a voltmeter even if its the free one from harbor freight.

 

[robinsoncc]

Test a starter is easy just put it in a vice and hit it with 12 volts. Don't try holding it with your foot! Haha!

 

[patterdale]

I ran into a guy with the same problem the other day at the local Menards. His cable end had been replaced with cheap pieces of s$$t and were dirtier than heck. I'll bet your positive battery cable had a bunch of whitish powder in it. What happens is the cable gets eaten up inside the insulation and will only partially carry current. This guy could jiggle the + cable and it would arc and get hot as hell in is hand. His lights and guages would act wierd just like yours. I'd do an autopsy on the bat. cables and see which one has this problem. My guess is the positive cable is a mess.

 

[dirtbikedad]

I had the same symtoms on mine. I would turn the key and everything went dead. I could unhook the battery and hook it back up and the lights and gauges would work until I turned the key again and then it would all go dead. It was the a ground that was bolted to the top of the intake. Cleaned it up good and never had it happen again.