Hoss Bronco Build - 1972 Modern Wheeler

[hossbronco]

The dry sump is for the 7.3L Godzilla. I’m not sure if it will clear stroker cranks because I haven’t seen any for the Godzilla yet. I haven’t looked into a dry sump for a 351W.

The 30HP loss was from an estimate I ran on a flywheel calculator I found. I just treated the adapter as a heavier flywheel. I’m pulling from memory, but I believe at 2,000 RPM the loss was less than 5HP, but at 4,000 or 5,000 RPM it was more like 25-30HP. Of course you’re not losing anything from maintaining speed, just from when you try to accelerate.

At some point I thought about doing a hand built frame, but I honestly wasn’t very excited about it. I think it started to feel more like I was building a buggy than a Bronco. I find it more exciting to see what I can fit inside the existing frame, so that’s what I’m going to do. Though I reserve the right to change my mind (wouldn’t be the first time).

 

[nvrstuk]

Yup, that I agree 100%.

Trying to see if there are any dyno sheets showing any differences when weight is added prior to the rear end. Flywheel, converter, clutch assbly, DS, etc.

Big tires SUCK hp, even with rear end ratios that compensate for the difference.

 

[hossbronco]

I wish I had something more official. It was just a balllpark estimate for me when I was considering the adapter. I went ahead and bought the adapter anyway because I thought the benefits outweighed the downsides, but going with the Godzilla removed that small inconvenience as well.

I still think the Speed Gems adapter is a pretty cool innovation that I’d be running if I still had a SBF.

 

[nvrstuk]

See lots of seat of the pants and physics answers but...

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/impp-1005-lightweight-flywheels-fact-or-fiction/

This was a MotorTrend article.

I think we can all agree that if you stomp on the skinny pedal with a 10# flywheel it will spin up faster than doing the same thing with a 60# flywheel.
Are we storing energy, using it, losing it, saving it for the next trip?

I can delete all these posts after we figure this out so they aren't a blot on your great build thread- easy to do.

I have the Speed Gems adapter for Shorty too. It's pretty slick.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

The 7.3L swap is becoming more and more attractive to me. At first, I thought I'd never consider it as an option. It will be many years until I ever do switch, but I am more intrigued by it lately.

Hope to see some amazing progress, and cant wait for it!

 

[hossbronco]

I’m still tearing some things down and will do a little body work (the floors are rusted out) while I’m still waiting on Godzilla parts. I purchased a dry sump, which is set to be manufactured in July. Also, I’m planning to use some of the Megazilla parts that should be available within the next few months. ARP is designing bolts as well, and Indy Power Products is working with me to design pulleys specific to my setup (dry sump and A/C at the same time). A year or two down the road these parts will be readily available, but for now they’re slowing things down.

Of course I think the cost of the Godzilla will go up as well. When I bought mine, I sold my 427W long block and bought the 7.3L new with plenty of money to spare, though these mods are sucking through that real fast.

I have no regrets about the change. A giant new pushrod engine! Once I get these parts together I’ll have the exact drivetrain I would have specified if I were designing my vehicle from scratch. I would not change out a single one of these components for anything else.

 

[hossbronco]

The dry sump is for the 7.3L Godzilla. I’m not sure if it will clear stroker cranks because I haven’t seen any for the Godzilla yet. I haven’t looked into a dry sump for a 351W.

I spoke with Bill Dailey a few weeks ago. The pan will clear any stroker you could possibly have, so no concern there.

 

[DirtDonk]

And all the time you’re spending researching Godzilla stuff, are you hearing any grumblings about the roller lifter problem?
Seems like I’ve heard some things lately about that with other engines as well as this one.

 

[DirtDonk]

Or has that already been discussed in this thread and I just didn’t remember?

 

[nvrstuk]

Ford's having roller issues? GM sure is. 2 buddy's trucks already in for warranty replacement

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, been worried about that too myself.
So far, so good… 45k and counting.

Yes, just saw some mention of it last week for the Fords.

 

[hossbronco]

Yes, I’ve heard that’s a problem with some 7.3L’s at around 40K miles. They start to delaminate and cause problems with the cam as well. I think if you get past that range you’re probably okay, from what I’ve heard. And yes, GM is having the same problem.

I was already planning on installing Johnson lifters, so I don’t think I’ll have that issue. They’re pricey, but they’re among the best out there. You probably already know this, but the Godzilla and LS lifters are a dead-on match with each other.

 

[nvrstuk]

"Dead-on match" of inferior quality or ??

I used Ford Motorsports (SBF) lifters and got 40K out of them and 3 of them self-imploded.
Think I'm going Morel on my 418 build

 

[hossbronco]

The stock ones are probably the same supplier. The Johnson ones are what the serious racers are using for the 7.3L. But then again they tear down their engines more frequently. Still, I’m not sure there’s anything better for the Godzilla.

I checked my email. Bill said the dry sump pan easily clears a 5” stroke, which I’m not sure is even possible with this engine. Stock is 3.976”.

 

[DirtDonk]

What kind of mileage are the GM guys getting out of theirs? The same 40K?

 

[Yeller]

Imo the lifter issue on both is variable valve timing and displacement on demand. When you start playing with oil pressure to adjust operating characteristics things can go bad quickly.

 

[nvrstuk]

I agree with ya Steve. VVT seems to be the common denominator.... except for me and my luck with anything related to Ford "Performance"
Corral and Yellow Bullet was awash with the same lifter issues I had over a stretch of 5 yrs or so. Must have been China built or at least a common problem since all the posts I read were common failures (needles) on them.

 

[hossbronco]

Jim sent me this. He’s going to print out the brackets for me to test fit. I’ll have to watch clearance around the steering box and shaft, and I may add a shield to protect the alternator from the elements (lower driver’s side).

I’m surprised he was able to fit the A/C compressor in front of the valve cover with the stock serpentine location. This configuration also allows room for the larger-bodied alternator.

 

[nvrstuk]

Gotta be kinda exciting to see it all drawn up in Solid Works or whatever... and they figure it will fit!

 

[Yeller]

Looks like they are using the “mini” sanden compressor. A few of the ac manufacturers say it doesn’t move enough volume but I never have had an issue with them not freezing the exchanger coil so I think they are fine. All of them I’ve installed I had to raise the coil probe thermostat to keep it from freezing up