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How did you run your TRO with stock trac bar mount?

hammer

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 13, 2006
Messages
1,359
Okay, first off I know using a trac bar riser is my best option.

4 years ago when I welded on my trac bar lowering bracket I didn't have plans on doing a chev 1 ton tro setup.

Now I have the issue of the tie rod hitting the trac bar bolt. From doing searches on here I haven't found anyone that made it work without using a riser.

Can anyone save me from spending more money on a riser and undoing the drop bracket that is already welded on?

(running 78/79 knuckles, chev 1 ton tre's, tro, 5.5" lift, 2wd box with stock pitman arm)
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
I dont have issues with my TRO hitting the trac bar bolt also run 78/79 knuckles. But I'm not running ch@vy setup either. I do have to make sure the adjuster sleeve on the tie rod is algined so it clears the trac bar bolt. The most common fix was people would shorten the trac bar bolt so it clears. Some people may have even found a shorter nut to help gain extra clearance.
 

needabronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 2, 2004
Messages
6,411
Loc.
Prescott/Farmington
Go to a full length track bar and move the mount out to the outer 'C' on the axle. You can cut off the stock track bar mount, and cut off the track bar lowering bracket on the frame.
 
OP
OP
hammer

hammer

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 13, 2006
Messages
1,359
I dont have issues with my TRO hitting the trac bar bolt also run 78/79 knuckles. But I'm not running ch@vy setup either. I do have to make sure the adjuster sleeve on the tie rod is algined so it clears the trac bar bolt. The most common fix was people would shorten the trac bar bolt so it clears. Some people may have even found a shorter nut to help gain extra clearance.

yeah my tie rod must be the difference. I'm using 1 1/2" O.D. x 1/4" WALL D.O.M. TUBING in the kit below;

http://completeoffroad.com/i-124127-tie-rod-drag-link-kit-dana-3044-and-60.html
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
Yeah mines basically a stock 3 way adjustable type. I dont care for those heavy dom setups as I'd rather bend a tierod than break a knuckle or steering box if I hit something. Just my .02

How badly is it hitting? I know mine would only barely rub the adjuster bolts at full lock but I think with the adjuster it would big larger than 1 1/2" DOM tube.
 

Madgyver

Contributor
Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
14,888
IMO, raise the tracbar. Get rid of the drop bracket.
 
OP
OP
hammer

hammer

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 13, 2006
Messages
1,359
I originally thought that it was hitting so bad that there was no possible way cutting the bolt back and getting a thinner castle nut was even an option. But I just went and tossed a tire back on the passenger side and my 37x14:50's are gonna hit my long arms before I can go full lock anyways. So a grind and thinner castle nut may get me there.
 

mavereq

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 19, 2009
Messages
2,092
Go to a full length track bar and move the mount out to the outer 'C' on the axle. You can cut off the stock track bar mount, and cut off the track bar lowering bracket on the frame.

that's a tight fit with the radius arms. i'm running mine out by the inner c but with a 3link. is yours outboard of your radius arm? is it double sheer?
 

needabronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 2, 2004
Messages
6,411
Loc.
Prescott/Farmington
Mavereq, my track bar is mounted on the outside of the radius arm, with TRO Chevy 1 ton steering linkage. I used 1.25" .250 wall dom and a 3/4" grade 9 bolt to hold the hiem joint to the axle.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,507
You may still need to remove the drop bracket with the tie rod over conversion. At full compression on the drivers side at full lock you will be crashing the tie rod into the drop bracket. This is a tie rod over (although heim but still the same location) showing clearance to a stock frame track bar bracket.
 

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hammer

hammer

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 13, 2006
Messages
1,359
You may still need to remove the drop bracket with the tie rod over conversion. At full compression on the drivers side at full lock you will be crashing the tie rod into the drop bracket. This is a tie rod over (although heim but still the same location) showing clearance to a stock frame track bar bracket.

Good point, that didn't even dawn on me. Looks like I may have 2 reasons to go with a riser now. Thanks guys always finding ways to spend my money for me.
 
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