Ignition problems..I'm completly stumped.

[Wyo4x4er]

Glad I could help!

 

[DuctTape]

Jafo you're a rock star!

 

[m_m70]

\ I had a mallory point eliminator kit that I installed probably 10 years ago I figured was the problem.

I would save that in the truck somewhere as a back up in case the newer module fails.
Glad you got it worked out!

 

[Chowbird]

Hi guys, sorry to resurrect a dead thread, but a quick question as I'm learning about ignition systems,...why would Delberts ignition switch to ballast resistor problem not exist on the first try of starting (cold), but then not start again after running (warm). Thx

 

[jrwyant]

While hunting for electrical gremlins in my ignition, I found that the resistance through the circuit between the ignition switch and coil was one value when cold (around 1.5 Ohms), and something else when warmed up (upwards of 4.5 Ohms)... result was coil (+) voltage was fine when cold (around 10-11V), and too low (around 6-7V) when warm. My engine would stumble or die after driving around for maybe 20 minutes, and restart only after cooling for a while.

I found dirt in that 4-pin square gray connector between the brake booster and driver's side fender. That connecter is in the the coil's circuit... after cleaning that out, the coil voltage rose to around 10V when warm (no more stumbling, and my idle was a little smoother, too.

Seems that that dirty connector introduced undesirable resistance that varied with temperature (and perhaps with the amount of current going through it.)