Leaks, Leaks, Leaks

[69Sport]

Well I have almost made it to the end of the frame up restore, all I thought I had left was to bleed the steering and the brakes. I started with the brakes just putting the fluid in and letting gravity do its thing. After a few minutes the job got alot bigger. Almost all of my connections had leaks. I understand some of the connections that I flared myself, but even the hard lines I bought for the front had leaks. It has been sitting for over a year with no fluid while the project was going on. I made sure that all the connection were tight, but still have leaks. What should I do. Leaks at the H block and at the juctions front and rear. I had to do something wrong. I even had a leak at the caliper for my rear disk and I installed new copper washers. I went from taking the rig around the block for the first time in a few hours to a total mess. Thanks 69sport

 

[aaronmichorn]

when I first installed all of my hard lines, I had several leaks. I used mostly the generic length tubes that are already flared. It was all brand new, and I had 3 or 4 leaks. I tightened them all a bit more, and it cleared it up. I felt like I was going to strip the threads, but I never did. I don't know if you are supposed to have to crank on them that hard or not, but I did, and it fixed it (for now at least).

 

[Bones]

I had to get mine rediculously tight to stop leaking.... Tight wasn't cutting it, rediculously tight did the trick though.

Did you use any sealant on the threads?

 

[69Sport]

Sealant

No I did'nt use any sealant yet But I am going to try it in the morning. I had good luck with the Permatex High Performance Tread Sealant on the hydralic clutch fittings. I am going to reflare or run a new line on the line from the junction in the rear to the pass caliper, its questionable. Thanks 69sport

 

[NoJoe]

Hi: Just a note, you shouldn't need sealant on those fittings because they seal on the flare not the threads and be sure to use a flare nut wrench or tubing wrench so you don't warp the fittings.

 

[bronco69drp]

i had the same problem with my flared brake lines. i used a double flare kit. i found that i was making the flare too flat. i found for a good flare all i needed to do after first step of setting up the double flare is to use less pressure on the cone die during the final flare process. ;D all you need is a good flare shape you do not have to crank down on the die with much pressure at all.
oh and do not forget to debur.

 

[Skiddy]

Hi: Just a note, you shouldn't need sealant on those fittings because they seal on the flare not the threads and be sure to use a flare nut wrench or tubing wrench so you don't warp the fittings.

X2 on this they are designed to seal at the flare

 

[69Sport]

Thanks

Thanks for the help, I reworked a few of the lines and replaced two lines and so far we have cleared up almost every leak. Thanks 69sport

 

[Pa PITT]

One of the last calipers I installed had a leak at the copper washer I changed the washer and finnally stopped it

 

[69Sport]

Thanks

It was the best day, pretty much all of the leaks have been stopped, and my boy and I took it out of the garage for the first time in 3 years. It was the BEST. The brakes were not the best and we had a few leaks and a couple of fuses were blown, but nothing could replace that look on his face. Bronco's and kids make the world go round. 69sport