High Oil pressure causing leaks in 351W

[DirtDonk]

Hugely so.

Tanks

 

[kat]

Highly doubtful. But will be interesting to find out for certain.
The factory valve cover probably has not only a different design, but probably different mounting points as well.
But it's been a long time since I've flipped one over and taken a peek.
Let us know what you find.

Paul

You were correct. Stock is totally different. I guess I have to order one from Scott Drake themselves.

 

[DirtDonk]

Well, at least they're made in the USA. If it was from overseas you'd have the dickens of a time getting just a part of one.
Maybe they're able to cull one from the herd, so to speak.
Hopefully they're willing!

I asked in your other thread, but is there no way of re-attaching it sufficiently? Too much material gone?
Maybe they should be "glued n screwed" from now on, rather than just screwed/riveted or however they're attached.

Did the attaching points break off and end up in the oil pan? Or did you find them up in the rocker gallery?

Paul

 

[kat]

Well, at least they're made in the USA. If it was from overseas you'd have the dickens of a time getting just a part of one.
Maybe they're able to cull one from the herd, so to speak.
Hopefully they're willing!

I asked in your other thread, but is there no way of re-attaching it sufficiently? Too much material gone?
Maybe they should be "glued n screwed" from now on, rather than just screwed/riveted or however they're attached.

Did the attaching points break off and end up in the oil pan? Or did you find them up in the rocker gallery?

Paul

The tabs were still bolted to valve cover so was able to recover. I did a quick search and can't find anything like it. I had the idea of just bolting a thin plate to it. I just need something to keep the oil from slinging into the valve cover filter and blowing out. The PCV side had a plate bolted to it.

 

[DirtDonk]

It often needs to be more than just a simple baffle. But since it’s not the PCV side, you’re in luck and I’m sure it can be much more simplified.
The “suck side” definitely needs a lot of help to keep oil and oil vapor away from the valve.

Speaking of which, did you check out the other side to make sure it is not going to suffer the same fate?

 

[nvrstuk]

I put Lucas in everything I have driven for decades. And back in the 80s I put STP in every oil change. My 260k F150 that I put oil treatment in since new would disagree with you. But I do agree that the oil gauge in dash is probably not correct since hardly anything is correct in my dash cluster.

Ahhhhh, but engine clearances aren't anywhere CLOSE to what they were decades ago. That's why you don't need and don't want STP, Lucas, 90wt mixed in your oil unless like stated earlier- it's almost DEAD!!

 

[nvrstuk]

Engines have changed! So have oils!!

 

[Glass Pony]

We would use STP at the plant as an assembly lube for large journal (sliding surface) bearings on 6-12" diameter shafts.
That stuff was slippery! You had to be careful rolling in half of a split bearing or you could crush your fingers.

 

[Fair Oaks Mustang]

In my experience, I have a lot more oil leaks with synthetic oils, especially with cork gaskets, than conventional...try a conventional 10w30 and see how the engine likes it. Also, look into the ME Wagner adjustable PCV valve (www.mewagner.com). I had a rear main seal leak that I successfully eliminated with one of these. PCV valves are specific to your engine vacuum and this adjustable one allows you to dial it in perfectly to eliminate crankcase pressure helping to eliminate oil leaks.

 

[kat]

Sooooooo,
Changed oil (5w30 synthetic), filter, PCV valve, rubber valve cover gaskets with the metal runing in the middle (its what I was running before also). Was able to use existing broken buffer after some fabricating. Swapped out the oil pressure extension that was originally on the 302 when I bought the Bronco years ago to a much heavier duty Scott Drake one. Installed Loctite thread sealer as was suggested. AND was able to manually check my oil pressure which sits at 52# at idle hot.
Drove it a little this weekend and so far so good. Weather is going to be crappy next few days so won't be able to give it a good shake down. Also, I only put 5 quarts in so far. Dipstick showing a little more than a quart low while warm. Gonna keep an eye on it.
Fair Oaks, that is a helleva PCV valve. I might look into that if leaks persist. Thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

Also, I only put 5 quarts in so far. Dipstick showing a little more than a quart low while warm. Gonna keep an eye on it.

Sounds correct for everything we know so far.
You'll be perfectly fine at a quart low for the time being, but eventually you might as well bring it up to full (or just below) by adding the required 6th quart.
Frankly, for the street and mild use, there wouldn't be anything wrong or dangerous in running it a quart low. But why lose that little bit of extra capacity of cooling and staying out of danger if you don't pay close attention and lose another quart before you notice.
We've all run 6qts in our stock Bronco pans for as long as we've had Broncos. Be nice to verify to without-a-doubt the capacity of the van, but given the reading on the dipstick and that it matches the pan, I don't personally have any doubts.

Paul