I'll probably look at it tomorrow or Sunday, I'm kind of hoping to save the old valve covers. They have the oil fill tube on the forward passenger side and are in good condition, seems like they may be a little on the rare side nowadays.
Community
Message Forum
Photo Gallery
Event Calendar
Book Reviews
Bronco Wallpaper
Bronco FAQ
Link Back to CB!
Photo Gallery
Event Calendar
Book Reviews
Bronco Wallpaper
Bronco FAQ
Link Back to CB!
Buy / Sell
Bronco Tech
3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
-
Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.
loud rockers
- Thread starter Kgbronco
- Start date
I'll probably look at it tomorrow or Sunday, I'm kind of hoping to save the old valve covers. They have the oil fill tube on the forward passenger side and are in good condition, seems like they may be a little on the rare side nowadays.
I rigged up the gauge so i could see it while driving and the pressure never dropped down, I also installed a new oil pressure switch and the stock gauge hasn't acted up.
I'll still try to look at how well the oil is draining but I think its okay. I'm still going to switch to slightly thicker oil and will hook the mechanical gauge up again once I do.
The original sound is gone, oil pressure is okayish, and other than a little noise I have had from the getgo at idle it's quiet. I don't think I'll be able to improve it much more without rebuilding the bottom end and unless it grenades on me before next year I don't think ill bother with it just yet.
I'll still try to look at how well the oil is draining but I think its okay. I'm still going to switch to slightly thicker oil and will hook the mechanical gauge up again once I do.
The original sound is gone, oil pressure is okayish, and other than a little noise I have had from the getgo at idle it's quiet. I don't think I'll be able to improve it much more without rebuilding the bottom end and unless it grenades on me before next year I don't think ill bother with it just yet.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2001
- Messages
- 14,785
3 or 4 gallons is too much oil.
it was just a joke, I run 5 quarts.
so my engine is still a little louder than I would like and with winter coming up I figured I would investigate. oil pressure is a little low but within spec while cold and hot, but i noticed one rocker arm is getting tons and tons of oil compared to the rest.
anyone have any idea what could cause that? nothing looks off on the rocker arm or pushrod so i guess maybe the lifter?
fwiw its the number 2 cylinder exhaust rocker, i think its exhaust maybe the intake, im not looking at the engine to confirm.
I'm not really a ford guy, does anyone have a diagram or know how the oil flows through this engine?
anyone have any idea what could cause that? nothing looks off on the rocker arm or pushrod so i guess maybe the lifter?
fwiw its the number 2 cylinder exhaust rocker, i think its exhaust maybe the intake, im not looking at the engine to confirm.
I'm not really a ford guy, does anyone have a diagram or know how the oil flows through this engine?
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2001
- Messages
- 14,785
Cam is gone. today's oil are crap for breaking in flat tappet cams.
I've gone through 2 cams in a month.
what brings you to that conclusion? this is a roller cam btw
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2001
- Messages
- 14,785
my bad, I assumed it was a flat tappet cam as the 1st 2 of mine were. I'm probably still shocked about it and answered without knowing your set-up. I'm dealing with a stuck roller lifter now and will need to pull the intake to replace it.
I reread your reply and noticed you said a flat spot on you rocker arms. Non-roller type? I misinterpreted flat spot, thinking cam.
Maybe that you have a similar issue.
At least summitracing sent me a pair of roller lifters and intake gasket set. I asked for a replacement of the set. He said they will replace the 1, I asked for a least 4. The customer service rep said 2 for now so I hope that's all I'll need.
Hyd roller lifters and roller rockers. One exhaust rocker has a small flat spot and another exhaust looks like it is wearing weird. Number 2 intake gets waaaay too much oil.
I may have to call summit, I was trying to avoid taking the lower intake off this year knowing that they don't sell singles of the Ford lifter I have in There.
It runs strong, just has always been louder than it should be and the oil pressure is on the low side of the spec when hot.
I may have to call summit, I was trying to avoid taking the lower intake off this year knowing that they don't sell singles of the Ford lifter I have in There.
It runs strong, just has always been louder than it should be and the oil pressure is on the low side of the spec when hot.
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2001
- Messages
- 9,096
I just got in on this thread but did you ever change the oil and is that what made the difference for pressure? IF not, then why do you have more oil pressure now?
That blown lifter-how dissappointing! That's just a faulty lifter, like Mad's been having- quality control issues.
Now you have rocker wear issues... Sure seems like it's geometry.
When the heads were installed you said the oil drain back holes didn't line up very well. Wow. What brand gaskets? I would think if you used a reputable gasket company's product then you can safetly assume that the head oil drain back ports aren't in the correct place. IF that is correct, then I definitely feel you could be dealing with geometry issues.
Also, did you figure out what the bronze colored filings were? If geometry is a problem then I would say you could have valve guide wear possibly and this would also contribute to the uneven wear on your rockers... so many little things are adding up.
I don't know. I've reread your posts several times trying to glean info from it.
That blown lifter-how dissappointing! That's just a faulty lifter, like Mad's been having- quality control issues.
Now you have rocker wear issues... Sure seems like it's geometry.
When the heads were installed you said the oil drain back holes didn't line up very well. Wow. What brand gaskets? I would think if you used a reputable gasket company's product then you can safetly assume that the head oil drain back ports aren't in the correct place. IF that is correct, then I definitely feel you could be dealing with geometry issues.
Also, did you figure out what the bronze colored filings were? If geometry is a problem then I would say you could have valve guide wear possibly and this would also contribute to the uneven wear on your rockers... so many little things are adding up.
I don't know. I've reread your posts several times trying to glean info from it.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2001
- Messages
- 14,785
I also took apart the stuck roller lifter that was an issue. it looked fine, internals was all good. It was weird because as soon as the lock was released the lifter popped back up. we put everything back together as is and on start up the noise came back. it was #4 exhaust. pulled the cover again. Got TDC for #4 and took up the play for that valve and it was okay until the replacement roller lifters came in. We had to wait because customer service is closed on the weekend, Called CS first thing Monday morning and they sent a pair right away along with an intake gasket set under warranty.
I'll weld up some art with that faulty roller lifter... lol
I did change oils and filters, i haven't seen any more bronze in the oil since the first run with the new heads. i'm not sure there was much of a change in oil pressure, it seemed that my original sender just died.
the gasket was is a fel-pro the head called for, i forget the model, it did seem a little off for one of the oil drain holes but i forget which one.
I am kind of leaning towards geometry issues as well but it was quiet for a good while and most of the markings seem like there in a good sweet spot, and watching the roller tip travel while turning it over by hand.
I'm going to take a closer look at it today, yesterday I only had enough time to pull it apart but i feel like it looked like one of the valve guides was dropping down compared to what i remember on installation.
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2001
- Messages
- 9,096
I feel for ya. If you didn't have bad luck you wouldn't be having any luck with this build.
If you can noticeably see a valve guide that's not in the exact location as the others, it's time to get some other heads too.
Keep us posted and hope this gets figured out soon!
If you can noticeably see a valve guide that's not in the exact location as the others, it's time to get some other heads too.
Keep us posted and hope this gets figured out soon!
I just took a peek, they all seem to be in the same spot, i guess my eyes were playing tricks on me yesterday
well things took a turn to the worse.
I pulled all the lifters, pushrods, rockers to inspect everything, replaced things that were questionable adjusted two rocker studs for better alignment, set the rocker preloads again and used the starter to turn it over to make sure all rockers were getting the proper amount of oil. first few rotations i built up oil pressure and then it stopped, oil gauge dropped to zero, no oil to any of the rockers and my mechanical oil gauge reads zero oil pressure as well.
i was really hoping this wasnt a bottom end issue, and I was pretty hopeful when i couldn't really hear anything out of the ordinary using a stethoscope on the oil pan but it looks like ill probably be pulling the engine.
i took a peak and it seems like the oil drain back holes at the front of the heads aren't 100% lined up with the gasket/block, it doesnt seem like it far off but it is noticeable.
the back holes are perfect
update: i took the cam synchro out and started to make a new oil pump priming tool since I can't find my og, when test fitting the new tool i noticed it looks like down in the block where the synchro rides or centers, whatever is wearing down, it looks like its freshly machining a groove into the actual block.
im ty ty now but ill try to snap some pictures of it and the synchro i was using tomorrow.
I pulled all the lifters, pushrods, rockers to inspect everything, replaced things that were questionable adjusted two rocker studs for better alignment, set the rocker preloads again and used the starter to turn it over to make sure all rockers were getting the proper amount of oil. first few rotations i built up oil pressure and then it stopped, oil gauge dropped to zero, no oil to any of the rockers and my mechanical oil gauge reads zero oil pressure as well.
i was really hoping this wasnt a bottom end issue, and I was pretty hopeful when i couldn't really hear anything out of the ordinary using a stethoscope on the oil pan but it looks like ill probably be pulling the engine.
i took a peak and it seems like the oil drain back holes at the front of the heads aren't 100% lined up with the gasket/block, it doesnt seem like it far off but it is noticeable.
the back holes are perfect
update: i took the cam synchro out and started to make a new oil pump priming tool since I can't find my og, when test fitting the new tool i noticed it looks like down in the block where the synchro rides or centers, whatever is wearing down, it looks like its freshly machining a groove into the actual block.
im ty ty now but ill try to snap some pictures of it and the synchro i was using tomorrow.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2001
- Messages
- 14,785
you need the body of the distributor to properly lube the cam bearings and other oil channels. just turning the oilpump shaft with the distrubutor shaft without the distributor body will not do any good. my understanding is that the oil goes through or around the distributor body as part of its path.
Attachments
i was using the starter at the first attempt to get oil up to the rockers, it has worked the past few times i adjusted the rockers. I would use the starter to prime em before actually starting the vehicle. Now i have nothing to the top end. I just started making a new priming tool so i could test the oil pump with a drill and try to prime the system without using the starter.
A 1/4 drive deep socket with a long extension is as easy as it gets. Electrical tape the socket to the extension for insurance.
