loud rockers

[tripog]

I also have the flotek heads on a 93 roller block stock cobra cam but haven’t ran it yet. Did you check piston to valve clearance? The bigger valves can get close to the pistons. Had to change to bigger valve relief pistons on mine, of course I didn’t know this until I had the whole thing assembled with stock pistons and happened to mention the scenario to my machine shop. Took it apart and clayed the pistons- too close.

Yeah, I started this way before and when I checked I had enough clearance. I was a little paranoid maybe I screwed it up somehow or the engine was open for so long something fell in lol that's why I bought one of those endoscope cameras and snuck it in the cylinders. I had all the ports plugged up so hopefully nothing could fall in but I have had chipmunks get up in there and they don't care.

the original sound was pretty bad though, it sounded like if the valves were being closed by a pushrod and rocker arm instead of just being opened by one, It ran strong while making the sound but it way too loud. Now it sounds like a gas powered sewing machine with a slight exhaust leak

 

[bflippinw]

Did you use a solid lifter when you checked clearance? Also did you have issues with the flotek heads lining up with the intake and gaskets? I’m going to have to do some porting for mine to work.

 

[Pa PITT]

This post started out with Kgbronco having noise issues back in 2017. Did he every get his fix.
.. I'm lost somewhat.
I did read all these post ... Because I HAD A LITTLE 2.9 83 V6. THAT I NEVER FIGURED IT OUT .. So was just reading for information to store.
.........
......... But Kgbronco had a new motor with only 30 miles on it.
That's way to much money to just throw away.

 

[tripog]

Did you use a solid lifter when you checked clearance? Also did you have issues with the flotek heads lining up with the intake and gaskets? I’m going to have to do some porting for mine to work.

I didn't have issues with the intake on the flotek heads but on the head gaskets 1 oil return hole gasket on each side was a little off, I don't recall what one, I think one closest to the timing cover. Yes I used a special lifter both with checking clearance and checking pushrod length.

I took the valve covers off again with intention to adjust the rockers again but they all seem right where they need to be with the exception of one on the driver's side which I adjusted the guideplate and reset to half turn after zero lash.

I fixed the exhaust leak I found earlier and then started it up and driver's side is quiet but passenger side makes a tapping sound till it warms up a little and then it quiets down.

I just started it up again and on

This post started out with Kgbronco having noise issues back in 2017. Did he every get his fix.
.. I'm lost somewhat.
I did read all these post ... Because I HAD A LITTLE 2.9 83 V6. THAT I NEVER FIGURED IT OUT .. So was just reading for information to store.
.........
......... But Kgbronco had a new motor with only 30 miles on it.
That's way to much money to just throw away.

Yes, I was hoping to get some input from him. I found this thread when searching the internet for tips on my issue and just decided to roll with this thread incase someone else is in the same predicament.

Looking over the op post history I kind of getting the feeling the engine he made this post about died, I'm hoping that's not the case and at some point he will chime in.

My engine is a bit quieter now but I never did determine what causes the original sound, and what is causing the sound while cold on the passenger side.

 

[Pa PITT]

Yes after I ASK THAT QUESTION I went back & checked to see if he'd made some more post maybe even a year later .
But I don't believe he's been back.
. I NEVER FIGURED mine out but we just traded that BroncoII off & fixed it that way.

 

[tripog]

I ordered an oil pressure gauge to see if my gauge was just acting up or if I have a bigger problem. It has not arrived yet but while waiting for it I decided to change my oil filter, I drained the oil out of the filter and unfortunately, I think I see a gold shimmer to the oil.
I can't tell for sure, but the fact I think I see something is worrisome enough, I don't believe I would see any kind of gold from just new lifters, pushrods, and heads. The only thing I can think of from the new parts which would add that color to the oil while breaking in maybe is the valve guides. I hate the thought of a bearing in the lower end going out just after putting on heads, but I'm definitely worried about it now.

Does anyone have tips or experience with a gold shimmer after adding new valvetrain parts? Also, operating under the assumption that the oil pressure gauge is not lying what could be something that is affecting my oil pressure under slight throttle when the engine is hot? It doesn't happen right when the engine reaches operating temp but seemingly it starts after a random amount of time while being at operating temp.

 

[Rustytruck]

Do you have a brass gear on the end of your distributor shaft if so best pull it and check it. easier now than stuck on the side of the road.

 

[tripog]

Do you have a brass gear on the end of your distributor shaft if so best pull it and check it. easier now than stuck on the side of the road.

That I'm not sure about, I don't believe it's brass. I'll take a look tomorrow once the oil pressure gauge arrives. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[tripog]

Cold start oil pressure is 55psi, still waiting for it to get up to temp for more readings.

200 degrees 25psi
1500rpm 40psi
2000rpm 45
2500+rpm 45-50psi

It seems like it once it reaches operating temp the oil pressure maxes out at 50ish psi and when the rpms drop back down to idle it's at around 20psi

Oil is fresh supertech synthetic 5w30 with a Purolator pure one filter

 

[Madgyver]

oil pressure is not your issue

 

[tripog]

oil pressure is not your issue

I needed to make sure, the oil pressure gauge went crazy on my one drive when hot and accelerating.
The engine runs well, and doesn't sound too terrible although I do think it should be quieter. Maybe everything is as good as it's going to get for a tired bottom end, although seeing a little gold shimmer in the oil is still worrying me.

 

[Timmy390]

What oil pump are you running? Stock? High pressure? High volume? How many Q's you running? Call me crazy but I've seen it in my wife's car. used supertech synthetic 5w30 and the pressure was down from where it was with mobile 1 5w-30

25 at hot idle is a sign of bearing ware. The bearings are getting hot and expanding i.e gaps are getting big. Now 25 isn't the end of the world. Rule of thumb is 10psi per 1000rpm's and your good. My old 302 had 30ish at hot idle (maybe a touch lower) and it ran for years with no issues but for being tired.

My W I build (less than 5000 miles on it) holds 60psi at cold idle and drops off to 45-50psi hot idle depending on how hot it is.

What worries me is you mentioned the gauge bounced around when under acceleration. Well you said crazy to be exact. That's a PROBLEM if you ask me. The pressure went some place. Sucked the pan dry? Blocked screen?

Tim

 

[tripog]

What oil pump are you running? Stock? High pressure? High volume? How many Q's you running? Call me crazy but I've seen it in my wife's car. used supertech synthetic 5w30 and the pressure was down from where it was with mobile 1 5w-30

25 at hot idle is a sign of bearing ware. The bearings are getting hot and expanding i.e gaps are getting big. Now 25 isn't the end of the world. Rule of thumb is 10psi per 1000rpm's and your good. My old 302 had 30ish at hot idle (maybe a touch lower) and it ran for years with no issues but for being tired.

My W I build (less than 5000 miles on it) holds 60psi at cold idle and drops off to 45-50psi hot idle depending on how hot it is.

What worries me is you mentioned the gauge bounced around when under acceleration. Well you said crazy to be exact. That's a PROBLEM if you ask me. The pressure went some place. Sucked the pan dry? Blocked screen?

Tim

I'll have to look at the oil pump I believe it is a high-volume melling. I am considering trying 5w-40 mobile one, they have it in stock for around 20 bucks at the local walmart.

the gauge when the crazy bouncing happened was just the stock gauge which I am told is basically an idiot light, the mechanical test gauge I hooked up today has the needle bouncing a little at all times but I assumed that was because it's a cheap gauge that isn't liquid filled.

I am worried about the bearings though I swear I saw some gold color in the oil that came out of the old filter. I was hoping maybe it's normal gold from the valve guides breaking in or something but I have my doubts. I don't know why suddenly I would have issues with my lower end bearings though, I haven't touched that stuff and went to great lengths to prevent anything from getting into the oil galley when cleaning off the previous head gasket.

 

[Timmy390]

I'll have to look at the oil pump I believe it is a high-volume melling.

You changed heads right? Look at the drain back holes. See if they're small and or blocked. HV pump and poor drain back can cause the pan to go dry at higher RPM's. If not dry it could suck some air. That would explain then erratic needle

Tim

 

[tripog]

You changed heads right? Look at the drain back holes. See if they're small and or blocked. HV pump and poor drain back can cause the pan to go dry at higher RPM's. If not dry it could suck some air. That would explain then erratic needle

Tim

Yeah, now that you mention it, the oil drain holes on the head gasket didn't match up perfectly to the block. If the pump is being starved for oil now would it still build up pressure when the rpms increase?

fwiw i used felpro head gasket 1011-1, it was infuriating how long it took to add oil to the engine as well but I chalked that up to a different oil fill spout on the new valve covers since it seemed like it was going slow due to the little cage at the bottom.

 

[Timmy390]

Yeah, now that you mention it the oil drain holes on the head gasket didn't match up perfectly to the block. If the pump is being starved for oil now would it still build up pressure when the rpms increase?

Yes till it runs out of oil or it sucks air. When it runs out or sucks the pressure will act up.....

Tim

 

[tripog]

Yes till it runs out of oil or it sucks air. When it runs out or sucks the pressure will act up.....

Tim

Is there any way to tell if that's what's actually happening?

Should I just put 3 or 4 gallons of oil in the engine and hope the tall valve covers can hold the extra?

Should I dry sump an old engine?

in all seriousness though lemme know if there's any way I can witness that happening, I really don't know

 

[Timmy390]

The only suggestion I have is to use a valve cover with the top cut off. I had an extra and used it to fing my valve train issue with my new build.

Rev the engine up and hold the rpm. Watch to see how things are oiling how it's draining.

Tim

 

[tripog]

The only suggestion I have is to use a valve cover with the top cut off. I had an extra and used it to fing my valve train issue with my new build.

Rev the engine up and hold the rpm. Watch to see how things are oiling how it's draining.

Tim

I can probably do the same with my old valve covers, I watched it run with the covers off when I first had sounds but it made such a mess I couldn't run it for very long without something on there. Or I wonder if I can snake my endoscope down the oil fill tube and see at least one side without messing around too much.

 

[Rustytruck]

if you decide to cut a valve cover cut the top and the sides and leave the bottom. bend the opening up leaving a flange on the bottom it will help keep the oil dripping in the right direction. just a sharp edge to watch out for.