LS3/6L80e Engine Swap into my 73

[73azbronco]

I have the m1a1, works fine, vent run to stock location passenger frame rail using rollover valve from some race shop. OEM charcoal filter, walla.

 

[nvrstuk]

Any gas ever in the tank?

Heat

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Not yet…. I don’t want to pull it out again. Will my solution not work?

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Okay, I give. Today I will drop the tank, throw some heat on the vent plug, and remove the plug.

Yesterday I got the oil pan back on after the 2nd modification. I think I now have plenty of clearance.

I’ve also changed out my heater hose lines. I had the flexible metal lines, but I wasn’t happy with where I had run them under the headers. When I went to move’em, I found that the shrink seal bands were actually loose. So I went with a Summitt kit that includes brackets to hold them. I modified the brackets and have mounted them to the fender wall. It also comes with some dress up hose covers. I’ll get that all installed today. Here’s a preview of how it will look.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Okay……I tried to get it out with heat. No go. The brass plug stripped out. So the tank is going back in. I need a plan B.

Can I hook the filler tank vent to my evaporator? Won’t that work?

 

[73azbronco]

Brass plug, you mean the drain plug on bottom? Never seen any plugs in vent lines on m1a1

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

If you don’t use their vent line, they give you a brass plug to block it off.

I’m going to do what some others have done and put a T on the fuel vent line, put a check valve in it and then tie it to the evaporation system.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Today’s progress:

Installed the updated heater hose lines.
Had fun with the fuel tank, took it out and then put it back in.
Finished the passenger side spark plug wires.

I think I have all the fluid lines completed on the truck. Here’s a couple pics

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Got some stuff done this weekend.

Installed radiator overflow tank.

Finished some front end wiring issues which allowed me to finish the radiator top support.

Finalized my gas tank vent issue by purchasing the Vapor Trapper. I’ll remove the existing equipment that’s behind the drivers side and install it there. I’ll tie it to the tank filler vent, as others have done.

I’m in the home stretch. I have 3-4 cleanup issues and two big jobs left; 3rd member and axle shaft swap & exhaust system.

BTW, I had to purchase a replacement muffler as my kit I purchased from Duff was missing a muffler. Long story short, I won’t be buying from Duff again. Sad statement as I had planned to purchase an updated steering setup from them.

 

[DirtDonk]

With all the improvements that you have made, I wouldn’t put any fuel cap stuff back in the cabin. Get it out of there once and for all.
I would try to find a better place, outside of the passenger compartment.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Dirt….good advice. The Vapor Trapper is pretty simple and well designed. I will look at all options for mounting.

On a different topic, I’d like advice on front steering linkage upgrades. Mine is stock, and did okay prior to this build. I hav e a ball joint that needs replaced, so of course that means an entire swap…Right? I didn’t notice much Bump Steer on it before, but now I’ve added another 1” of body lift.

Let’s hear your thoughts?

 

[Yeller]

Need a picture of the front steering linkage from straight in front. That will help a lot.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yep, that.
And if there is already a good one of the current setup somewhere earlier in this thread, post it back up here again for us to peruse, work over, and spew forth with idears.

Paul

 

[1969miller]

I made a system similar to the Duff kit. Used the riser on this customers bronco, 3.5in lift, tie rod over, angles were perfect no bump steer. Could be easy to replicate for you at home with some parts from Ruffstuff.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

 

[DirtDonk]

I made a system similar to the Duff kit. Used the riser on this customers bronco, 3.5in lift, tie rod over, angles were perfect no bump steer. Could be easy to replicate for you at home with some parts from Ruffstuff.

Sweet lookin' setup!
Is that red thing a vent tube, or is it a positive battery/starter cable hanging out there in harm's way?
If'n it's a battery cable, I sure would feel better if it was somewhere else!

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

On a different topic, I’d like advice on front steering linkage upgrades. Mine is stock, and did okay prior to this build.

What tire size again? And how much suspension lift that wasn't on it before?

I have a ball joint that needs replaced, so of course that means an entire swap…Right?

Of course! Can you say "rabbit hole" or "snowball effect" three times quickly?

I didn’t notice much Bump Steer on it before, but now I’ve added another 1” of body lift.

Body lift itself does not have any effect on steering linkage/geometry. Only on the steering column and input shaft.
Any suspension changes? Sorry it might already have been gone over, but I always appreciate a refresher course!

Currently looks purely stock linkage. Any drop pitman arm or trackbar bracket that we can't see in the photo?
How much lift (if any) in that pic?

Paul

 

[EPB72]

Dirt….good advice. The Vapor Trapper is pretty simple and well designed. I will look at all options for mounting.

On a different topic, I’d like advice on front steering linkage upgrades. Mine is stock, and did okay prior to this build. I hav e a ball joint that needs replaced, so of course that means an entire swap…Right? I didn’t notice much Bump Steer on it before, but now I’ve added another 1” of body lift.

Let’s hear your thoughts?

I I abandoned the aux tank and filler , so I built an caper : expansion tank that fit all the way up into the filler access area outside , there is a drain back tube and vent lines one to tank with roll over valve and then a vent line to canister. vent lines have internal tube that extends to the top of the expansion tank,, I also mounted the canister up inside the drivers fender ( not using factory radio antenna so works out). I’m also using an active purge set up like on a GM with carb bowl vent and tank vent., it’s a better way to purge canister for the next vehicle off cycle helps illuminate carbon saturation which would make evaporation system useless,,, so guessing you could set up computer controlled purge set up or is that the plan

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Suspension lift is 2.5”. Everything else is stock with Bilsteins. All I’ve done is add the 1” body lift.


I think I have 31” tires. Pretty sure.

 

[DirtDonk]

Suspension lift is 2.5”. Everything else is stock with Bilsteins.

I think I have 31” tires. Pretty sure.

Well, as many steering upgrades as there are out there (we have several!), I would leave it as is for now, unless you have some components that are already worn out.
Personally, I like to use a dropped arm and bracket even with just 2.5" of lift. But that's me. I like angles to be as stock as possible, whenever possible.

If the Bronco is on the ground and rolling at full weight at this point, you might want to do the "dry steering test" or "static test" (nothing static about it though!), or just "the test" to see if anything is worn without you knowing.
This test is where you have the front tires fully on the ground and fully weighted by the vehicle, and a helper turns the steering wheel back and forth about a half-turn in each direction. While this is going on, you're under the front (and then the rear) looking at EVERYTHING that move or doesn't move.

You're looking for any monkey motion that should not be there. Or anything flopping, twisting, flexing or popping, that should not be doing those things.
Anything that moves where it should not, should be replaced.
And at that point, if you're going to replace things, then you can look at upgrades. Starting with an adjustable draglink as far as I'm concerned. Updated tie-rods are great too, but an adjustable draglink is a game changer for centering the steering wheel on a lifted Bronco.

Paul