LS3/6L80e Engine Swap into my 73

[WPS 73 Bronco]

So back to my wiring questions regarding the pic in post 286. I’ve got the starter issue resolved. Now it’s on to other issues.

Right now, when I turn the key on all amber lights are on and are dim??? Blinkers work fine.

As Oldtimer mentioned, in connector c222 there are two red/bk wires that if connected they should light up my reverse lights. I will confirm. But then what do I do about reverse lights?? I can’t find any connection from the Holley transmission controller to the reverse lights? I will also look into the Dakota Digital gauge and see if there’s an output on it? Worst case is I buy a mechanical switch like the one below from LOKAR.

The c218 connector is not needed since I have the Holley terminator x. Is that correct? In that connector is the brown wire that is connected to the “i” pin on the starter solenoid. ???

 

[DirtDonk]

I had to fab up a switch for my backup lamps when I switched to a floor shifter. In many cases, in manual transmissions at least, there was a mechanical switch screwed right into the case. With most automatics, it's somewhere along the line of the mechanical linkage. But once you go to electronic controllers, that all goes out the window.
Kind of surprised that the new controller does not have a facility for that.
I doubt that the instrument cluster would have such a circuit, but you never know!

What kind of shifter and linkage will you be running? You may already have said, but I don't remember that far back. Even if it was just two posts ago!

Paul

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Lokar SS automatic shifter. The pic in the prior post shows their switch that they add. I think that’s my plan.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

I started another thread on this next issue, but Paul suggested I might be better off posting it in this thread.

Issue…..no spark while cranking. The terminator x handheld controller goes blank during crank. I‘m thinking that the ACC connections go out during crank, therefore the coils get no power. My plan it to re-evaluate how I tied the ACC switched wiring into the fuse box. There’s only a couple wires that are direct connection to the battery and they are correct. I know there is a critical red/white wire in the Holley wiring that feeds power to the coils. I’ll start there.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Researching my wiring integration from existing harness to the Painless fuse box, I used Black-Yellow as my Hot Battery side power, and I used Black-Green as my ignition switched power.

If I use the Green-Red or Red-Green instead of the Black-Green, I’m thinking that solves my problem. Paul had noted that the G-R / R-G wires don’t shot off during crank. I’m guessing the B-G does.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Jumpered the green-red to the Holley ignition switched power line. Now the Holley maintains power while cranking, but still no start. I’m going to go search the Holley forums for additional support.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

What I found in my research was that the battery was too low. It needs a solid 12 v while cranking and I was getting about 10.5 v.

Jumped it and the rest is history.

 

[DirtDonk]

Sweet, sound of success!
Next thing on the list, though, find out why the alternator is not working.
Is it disconnected at the moment, or should it be working? That 11.7v showing on the screen with the engine running is far too low.
Should be 14.7 more like.
Working alternator that’s not computer controlled, should be putting out a minimum of 14v, and a maximum of 15v.
Generally speaking in that range.

 

[DirtDonk]

I like the screen in the glove box. I think that’s the first time I’ve seen a picture of the Holley X installed.

 

[Yeller]

Woohoo

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Couple observations from the engine.

Paul’s comment about alternator, that was just a wire I didn’t have hooked up yet. Solved.

Boy is this thing loud. It has the Texas Speed stage 2 cam in it, with the headers and 2.5’ exhaust. I think it’s going to be a beast. I’m sure my wife won’t enjoy taking it to the golf course.

I need to button up a few more wires, both radiator and transmission cooler relays, and a few other small ones. Then its time to tackle the 3rd member and axles.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Progress….and getting real close to driving.

Buttoned up wiring in the engine bay completing both radiator and transmission fan relays. I also cleaned up a bunch of lose wires and “dressed” them up.

One wiring issue I still have is that all my amber lights come on when i turn the ignition on.???? I’m sure Paul has the answer.

Today I pulled the rear axles and 3rd member. Clearly the best way to do it is with a slide hammer, which both sides required. The passenger side was more challenging as the brake assembly was stuck to the axle. I removed the brake line and it came out as a package.

The third member wasn’t that difficult. All of the brass washers came off fairly easily. The challenge was the weight of the damn thing. I decided to just let it drop to the ground.

Should I try and flush the old oil out of the diff housing from one end to the other? I can see standing oil in the tube.

One of the pics shows the diameter difference of the original axle and the new 35 spline axle. Big difference.

I’ll get the rear end completed next weekend, maybe even bleed the brakes and take it for a spin. That’s more likely to be two weeks out since I have two new puppies arriving on Thursday. Brother & sister Bernadoodles, full size.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Should I put rear disc brakes on while I have it apart? I have front disc already. If so, what kit should I buy for easy install?

I’m trying to minimize scope creep, but while it’s apart……

 

[nvrstuk]

Do you wheel a lot in wet snow, deep wet mud or water crossings?


If not, stay with the rear drums.
EZ ebrake, no spendy upgrade.

Safety upgrade for discs is if you keep the 9" and go disc brake the rotor & caliper help keep the axle & wheel from sliding out when the rear outer axle brg fails... they all fail.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

I've taken nvrstuk's recommendation and decided to just rebuild the existing drum brakes.

Back to my other small electrical issue, all of my driving lights come on when I turn on the key on either ignition or ACC positions. My hazzards also don't work. Blinkers, Brakes, etc all work. So does my horn.

Here's a short recap of my project and my issue.

1) LS swap using the Holley Terminator X ECM system
2) Installed an ididit steering wheel
3) Added Dakota Digital speedo & gauges
4) Added Vintage Air Gen V system
5) Replaced all dash switches with Ford replacements, other than the VA Controls
6) Replaced existing Ford fuse box with Painless universal, ensuring that the Bronco connections were mirrored and then adding the Holley as the next step.

DD and Oldtimer have given me some ideas via PM. Here are a few things they suggested to look into:

From DirtDonk:

Did you include all three power circuits to the fuse panel?
1. Switched power- Black w/green stripe feed.
2. Constant power - Black w/yellow feed.
3. Dash indicator light power - Blue w/red feed.

From Oldtimer:

With key off, pull headlight switch out 1 click, which running lights come on?

Turn signal circuit gets switched power from ACC/RUN position of ignition switch.
Hazards have a constant 12v power source, so you can leave hazards on with no key.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

I just tried Oldtimer’s suggestion of pulling the headlight switch out 1 click.

Well, we have a problem and a likely solution (???)……. All the running lights come and so does THE DASH.

 

[Oldtimer]

I just tried Oldtimer’s suggestion of pulling the headlight switch out 1 click.

Well, we have a problem and a likely solution (???)……. All the running lights come and so does THE DASH.

Working as expected.

 

[DirtDonk]

Electrical always sounds too complicated. So I ignored your prompt in the previous post. For a little bit anyway, and figured I’d get back ‘round to it eventually.

But before I forget, don’t forget to take the seals out of the axle tube ends, if you haven’t already.
As for getting the old oil out, I would.
It’s not critical, as the fresh oil will far out strip the old. But I just like to do things like that.
You can tilt it, which is probably the easiest method, or create some sort of a half moon squeegee to push it out into the center section or out the tube edge.

 

[DirtDonk]

And presumably, the new 35 spline axles have Set-20 tapered roller bearings. You definitely do not want to put inner seals back in the tubes in this case.
Only if you plan to pack the bearings with grease and repack them periodically.
Otherwise, they are lubed for life by the gear oil.

 

[DirtDonk]

The plot thickens…
Where the heck are those lights getting power when you turn the key on. If they work with the headlight switch, then as far as that goes, they’re wired correctly.
But with the headlight switch off, they come on with the key? Very strange indeed.
The game is afoot!
By the way, how do they act with the light switch pulled out one notch, and then the key turned to ACC?