Mountaineer/Explorer 5.0 Swap

[1buckeyefan1]

So I ended up re-clocking the ZF adapter to the middle - this just barely nets me the clearance I need to get my front driveshaft across the BC crossmember.

I had to cut up the AA Twin Stick bracket.. so sad, as it was nice and powdercoated already. I ended up moving it over .5" and up about .75" to work with the middle clocking position. I applied some amateur welds and it seems to be holding in place.

I also placed a 1.5" square tube spacer between the 4r70w tail housing and the BC trans rubber pad. Jason said he's seen .5 to 1.5" spacers when using his bracket. This seemed to net me a 4.7 degree angle on the top of the intake, which seems inline with what Jason @ BC told me they do with theirs (5 degrees) and it's close to the original angle of the stock 302?

I think this leaves me with approx 6 degrees of pinion angle in the rear. I'm going to wait and check it again when I get my body eventually put back on and then decide to shim, etc.

The other piece of advice Jason gave was to wait and order your driveshafts last.. after the body, and all of the weight is back on. It'd be so much easier to guesstimate at them now and install w/ the body off, but I'm going to head this advice.

 

[Turningwrenches]

Hello I am new here and starting the 97 5.0 swap into a 69 Bronco. Will be using the nv4500 transmission. I have the parts list needed and parts vehicle. Just wondering how to get a hold of efiguy and get him to do the pc and harness. Thank you.

 

[904Bronco]

Garry has been 3-4 months out doing harnesses, he can get ECU programing done quicker, if that is all he is doing.
I don't think he visits this site much anymore, occational he comments on some of the Bronco Facebook pages.
There was another thread here that someone posted his newest sticker that had contact info.
Better to text him, it has taken him a while to get back to me that way. His Voice mail has always been full...

 

[SC74]

I'm also glad I found this thread, and the links to Chuzie's threads.

I just picked up a '97 explorer, 5.0, AWD, with GT40 heads last weekend. I'm trying to get my Bronco body stripped down now for the body shop before I tear into the Explorer. I wasn't going to to the AOD transmission, but now that I found one and I read on it, I'm excited about tackling it.

1buckeyefan1 - Is there a different kit from AA that you replace the output shaft rather than cutting the existing? I will be having the trans rebuilt, so installing a different output shaft won't be a deal.

 

[1buckeyefan1]

1buckeyefan1 - Is there a different kit from AA that you replace the output shaft rather than cutting the existing? I will be having the trans rebuilt, so installing a different output shaft won't be a deal.

Yep, this actually came up in a separate thread.. I think this is your answer

50-4303 - aka 'ZF adapter' - works on on the 4WD 4R70W and uses the same tailhousing that came on it. This requires a custom trans mount. BC sells one that works if you add a 1-1.5" spacer on the trans mounting block. Or you can buy a F150 4R70W tailhousing that adds the 1" mounting flange on the bottom. This option is a little cheaper for the adapter kit since it doesn't come with a new tailhousing, just the spud shaft and clocking ring.

This was from a post from Doug (904Bronco last year on the others)

So if you have a good running 4x4 4R70W transmission and you do not have to go into it internally then you use the AA adapter kit (#50-2704A) with the ring. It will add an additional 1.4" to the length of your Tranny/T-case in addition to the 1.5" that the 4R70W swap has over the C4/D20. So 3" longer overall.

For the 50-2704A, you can modify your existing C4 trans mount to work with the AA tailhousing


If you are going into the 4x4 tranny or have a 2wd tranny the AA kit (#50-2704E) is used where they install a different output shaft into the trans and eliminate the need for the adapter ring. This makes the install just 1.5" longer than the C4/D20 combination.

 

[SC74]

Where does the Timken seal go, in the AA adapter, or on the Dana 20? I am assuming on the D20 side of the adapter?

 

[R0kcrwlr]

Thanks for starting the thread. I just picked up a 98 motor and Trans last night 113k so I am speed reading to figure what's first few items that I need to start with...
1. Send computer to Gary for programming.
2. Headers?
3. Leave stock or swap cam/lifters?
4. Just do it...haha

I think I am hung up on should I do any performance mods or just run it? In my head it would be nice.to get another 50-60 hp and some more torque.

Current set is 302, FI-Tech, full width axles 5.13 gears with 37's. 50/50 on/offroad rig.

 

[DirtDonk]

Tough call!
On the one hand the stock Explorer engine pulls very strong and runs very clean and you have decent enough gearing that it wouldn’t necessarily need a lot more. But you also have to look inward and see if you’ll be kicking yourself after putting it all together and missing a chance to upgrade it a little bit.
Know what I mean?

 

[R0kcrwlr]

Tough call!
On the one hand the stock Explorer engine pulls very strong and runs very clean and you have decent enough gearing that it wouldn’t necessarily need a lot more. But you also have to look inward and see if you’ll be kicking yourself after putting it all together and missing a chance to upgrade it a little bit.
Know what I mean

Yep. I know what you mean. Lol.. I was trying to figure out how to obtain 40-50hp but not sure if headers and Air intake will even be close.. decisions.....

 

[DirtDonk]

No, pretty sure that won’t cut it.
The good news is the the 98 should have the GT40 P heads which were a great design. The bad news is that they make it harder to find headers.
However Sanderson does make a nice set as long as you don’t mind losing the EGR set up. Since you’re going to have the computer tuned anyway that’s probably not a big issue.
Air intake probably won’t make much of a difference other than you being able to keep the larger tube diameters without interfering with the Bronco hood clearance issue.
If you can keep from crimping it down to clear the hood, you’re ahead of the game slightly. Probably lucky to rig something up to get you a few horsepower.

 

[76MaBronco]

I put a non-rebuilt 302 and the 4R70W out of a '99 Mountaineer/Explorer into my Bronco, and with 4.11's and 33's, I can tell you it's PLENTY of power to light up the rears with a locker. The original carb'd version of the 302 was around 170 HP, the EFI motor is around 230 HP in the stock configuration, so you're already getting the boost you're looking for.

As far as headers go, the original Explorer/Mountaineer ones fit nicely and were easy to adapt the exhaust pipes from the donor vehicle, and were tuned to that engine.

 

[dmoses42]

I put a non-rebuilt 302 and the 4R70W out of a '99 Mountaineer/Explorer into my Bronco, and with 4.11's and 33's, I can tell you it's PLENTY of power to light up the rears with a locker. The original carb'd version of the 302 was around 170 HP, the EFI motor is around 230 HP in the stock configuration, so you're already getting the boost you're looking for.

As far as headers go, the original Explorer/Mountaineer ones fit nicely and were easy to adapt the exhaust pipes from the donor vehicle, and were tuned to that engine.

Are you talking manifolds or headers? I've never seen headers on an Explorer, but I know they make them.

 

[76MaBronco]

Manifolds. The cast iron factory ones.


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[904Bronco]

Manifolds. The cast iron factory ones.


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The 1996 motors have something that looks like a header, but it looks (is) more restrictive than any cast iron manifold that came on the later motors.

 

[76MaBronco]

The 1996 motors have something that looks like a header, but it looks (is) more restrictive than any cast iron manifold that came on the later motors.

Not 100% sure on that. I used what was in the truck and I no longer own it. I had plenty of power using stock components.


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[904Bronco]

Not 100% sure on that. I used what was in the truck and I no longer own it. I had plenty of power using stock components.


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I can't say I did a test on an engine on a dyno stand, but when you set the two together and look at how the 96 was welded together, the bends, the crimping, it just can't flow as well as the cast iron later units. 96 doesn't have a exhaust port for EGR, since it was fed internally.
Everything is a personal choice, sometimes controlled by how big the budget is. I would run the 96 manifolds if that was all I could afford and they worked in the Explorer, so... they would work in a Bronco.

 

[76MaBronco]

I can't say I did a test on an engine on a dyno stand, but when you set the two together and look at how the 96 was welded together, the bends, the crimping, it just can't flow as well as the cast iron later units. 96 doesn't have a exhaust port for EGR, since it was fed internally.
Everything is a personal choice, sometimes controlled by how big the budget is. I would run the 96 manifolds if that was all I could afford and they worked in the Explorer, so... they would work in a Bronco.

Exactly why I kept the cast ones...

 

[R0kcrwlr]

Exactly why I kept the cast ones...

Well the more I keep reading about what upgrades for what amount of $$ and hp gain I keep leaning on leaving it all stock. I thought about a cam that gary has mentioned in several discussions but there is $400-500 and that is with using stock manifolds..

Question .. bare with me if it's a dumb question... If I decided to leave it all stock and just install it as is.. is there still a need to have Gary do his magic to the computer? Are there things that I should delete or simplify?

Thanks.

 

[stretch]

Yep, Gary still needs to do his magic. The PATS system needs to be disabled and the second set of down stream O2 sensors. I know there is more, that just off the top of the head.

 

[sprdv1]

So I ended up re-clocking the ZF adapter to the middle - this just barely nets me the clearance I need to get my front driveshaft across the BC crossmember.

I had to cut up the AA Twin Stick bracket.. so sad, as it was nice and powdercoated already. I ended up moving it over .5" and up about .75" to work with the middle clocking position. I applied some amateur welds and it seems to be holding in place.

I also placed a 1.5" square tube spacer between the 4r70w tail housing and the BC trans rubber pad. Jason said he's seen .5 to 1.5" spacers when using his bracket. This seemed to net me a 4.7 degree angle on the top of the intake, which seems inline with what Jason @ BC told me they do with theirs (5 degrees) and it's close to the original angle of the stock 302?

I think this leaves me with approx 6 degrees of pinion angle in the rear. I'm going to wait and check it again when I get my body eventually put back on and then decide to shim, etc.

The other piece of advice Jason gave was to wait and order your driveshafts last.. after the body, and all of the weight is back on. It'd be so much easier to guesstimate at them now and install w/ the body off, but I'm going to head this advice.

love that user profile pic