My LS3/6L80e Engine Swap…..no haters please.🙏

[nvrstuk]

Cut it and make it fit. Then repowder coat or Jet Hot or whatever coating it has.

All I know to do. I sure like your progress so far.

 

[Yeller]

Hmmm wish I had a recommendation the ls10 is what I’ve used.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Maybe I go to exhaust manifolds instead. how do you think these would fit?

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

You never know……. I have a pair of American Racing SS long tube LS headers that were custom fit for my 72 Corvette. The first version they made didn’t work, but the second version fit lime a charm. For whatever reason, they never requested me to send the first set back and only charged me for one set. I’ve had those headers sitting on a shelf for 10 years now.

I will pull them down this weekend……….


UPDATE - They didn’t fit either. I’m going to get my S10 passenger header back from Sanderson and evaluate the modification needed.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

So I need an opinion…..

Go with the Hooker exhaust manifold, which should fit real well?

or

Modify the inner fender well to clear the header? The clearance issue is with the cylinder/tube that is nearest the firewall. Need to trim the fender well about 3 inches below the top surface, and from the area closest to the firewall about 6 to 8” toward the front of the engine bay. AND WITH WHAT?

 

[Yeller]

So I need an opinion…..

Go with the Hooker exhaust manifold, which should fit real well?

or

Modify the inner fender well to clear the header? The clearance issue is with the cylinder/tube that is nearest the firewall. Need to trim the fender well about 3 inches below the top surface, and from the area closest to the firewall about 6 to 8” toward the front of the engine bay. AND WITH WHAT?

I’ve been able to just bent the inner fender towards the tire enough to make them clear, my motor placement may have been slightly different, or header or combination there of. It was hitting by about 3/4”.

If manifolds are a consideration the hookers or trail blazer SS manifolds would be my pick. I’m running the trailblazer manifolds on both of my personal swaps. For either of them you have to cut the ears off the bell housing that stick out past the block. The hookers are a copy of the GTO stock manifolds.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

I ordered a set of the hooker exhaust manifolds, and I'm getting the Sanderson LS10 passenger header back.

That will give me two options to evaluate. The hooker will likely fit. It too is an S-10 model design so maybe it will fit ??? If I have to trim some bell housing as you said, that's fine. I'm also going to evaluate what mods would be needed to get the header to work.

Simple Wins. I'm at a point of frustration and I don't want to lose momentum.

 

[DirtDonk]

Are you sure the body sheet metal is the only thing in the way on the passenger side?
With headers made for Ford engines, but not for Broncos specifically, they usually hit the frame rail instead of the wheel well.
Specific Bronco headers are typically angled rearward, a little farther back towards the bell housing area, and slightly inward, before angling down.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

All issues are Passenger side only.

So the hooker manifold exhaust fit the engine bay perfectly, but the bottom of the collector “ear” hits the frame. The engine and tranny are likely 1/2” too low. It’s a cast manifold, so no rotating option allowed. Option is to raise engine and tranny.

Went back to the Sanderson Header CSLS1. This one has the collector in the right location, but the number 8 cylinder (close to firewall) is 5 1/2” wide and the engine bay is only 4.25” wide. Solution is to trim the fender well so that the #8 header tube clears. It will be very close to the shock towers mount. I’m 85% certain once trimmed, it will fit. There’s a new issue, getting the header into position. I tried all angles from above and below, but I can’t even get it into the engine bay. I think the solution is to loosen the motor & transmission mounts, and then pull the transmission tail to the side and try and get the header in place from underneath. This option requires the fender to be cut back. I’m pretty sure I can do it from inside the tire well with a grinder cutting blade. The risk is that it doesnt’ clear the shock tower.

Opinion or thoughts?

 

[Yeller]

If it doesn’t clear the tower, mod the tower, change shock tower design or the unsexy option is dent the tube.

 

[Speedrdr]

I say dent the tube(s) and wrap the headers with header tape. Hides your ‘adjustment’ plus helps to cool the engine bay some. But I’m just cheap like that. Lol

Randy

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

So you’re all saying stay focused on the header option. Punt on the Hooker exhaust manifolds.

 

[Yeller]

So you’re all saying stay focused on the header option. Punt on the Hooker exhaust manifolds.

I would, it is easier than reworking motor and trans mounts.

 

[Speedrdr]

^^^^ this…Unless you’re just into all that extra fab work.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

All I can say is thanks for the encouragement.

The first pic is from the tire side of the fender well.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

So yesterday I cleaned up the fender trimming and got my heater hoses back in place. Once that was done I decided to tackle the radiator mounts. I took a couple pieces of 1/4” angle and fab’d the supports, mounted to the old bottom support bracket. All seemed to work fine, but I’m now concerned about the height of the radiator cap. Since I don’t have the hood on, I can’t test it.

In the pic below, the top of the radiator cap flange is 3/4” above the front grill support frame. When I add the rubber support to the bottom support and a cap, I will probably be close to 1 1/4” in total height.

Will this clear the hood? I’m paranoid

 

[Oldtimer]

From bottom side of closed hood to top of core support: 2-1/4"
Your filler neck lines up with stock upper radiator support, so as you move sideways across hood clearance may be a little less.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Thanks!

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Regarding my radiator, my plan was to fab an aluminum hold down bracket mounted on the top, and let it rest on the bottom two rubber supports that I fab'd up. They both have a 1/2" lip that will hold the radiator in place.

Does this sound like a good plan or is there something I'm overlooking.