My LS3/6L80e Engine Swap…..no haters please.🙏

[Yeller]

looking for a few threads to help with the radiator discussion, Here's one I did after going through multiple radiators mounted the "way they were supposed to be" and were from the factory. still going strong and no issues, furthest and most number of miles without a hiccup to date. My bronco is mounted very similarly, although it may not be a great example since it has no factory core support, it is all tube, but it has been beat and never an issue in 12 years. I'm a huge fan of 3 point mounting, let it float and it will live a happy life. Many aftermarket radiators get a bad wrap due to improper mounting, they need to float and move on their own, being forced to move with the mounting is a recipe for a leaky radiator, coming from a guy that has spent $3000 on radiators in the last 2 years for the same truck mounting them the way they were mounted from the factory, even modified that with some bushings, still wasn't enough. moved to a 3 point design and not looked back.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Okay, I'm done with my summer hiatus and I'm back at it. As we all know many things get in the way of our projects. For me it was work, family, vacation, summer heat in TX, project burn out, and other fun things to do. But I'm back at it and ready to get this LS Bronco running.

So picking up where we left off, I was trying to figure out the mounting of the radiator. I finally decided to just put in place a temporary solution so that I could move on to other items. One of the things I've had an issue is trying to make everything perfect, instead of good & functional. So that is my current plan. Once I'm further down the road and driving this beast, then I can come back and improve or optimize things.

Below are pics of the radiator top mount and my radiator hoses. I'm using the factory bottom supports with rubber pads on them. I have no rubber isolation on top, but will fix that down the road. For the hoses, I used Summit hose kits to build what I needed on top, and then a 9" flex hose on the bottom. Everything fits, so it's time to move to the next item on the list.

 

[73azbronco]

I've found over the years, 90% is the best goal for stuff.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Got back on it today. I finished up the fuel lines and the hydraulic lines.

 

[nvrstuk]

IMHO (in my humble opinion), pefect is never reached. Almost isn't ever reached on the first, second, third or 40th try.

Instead of saying practice makes perfect, I used to say "practice makes better". Look at the number of athletes, doctors, welders... doesn't matter what the person's expertise is... show me someone who does it perfect in less than 40 attempts. ( or unlimited)

 

[m_m70]

IMHO (in my humble opinion), pefect is never reached. Almost isn't ever reached on the first, second, third or 40th try.

“A man would do nothing if he waited until he could do it so well that no one could find fault.”​

― John Henry Newman

I've always had this quote above my office door.

 

[DirtDonk]

One of my favorites, seems a little similar. It was an old Confucius say parable.
“Confucius say, man who deliberates fully before taking each step, is destined to spend his life standing on one foot“i
And it always made sense to me. Kind of like my life!

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

DD, question for you. My SS braided fuel lines are from WH, #9672. Can it be used for other applications such as transmission fluid lines and the hydraulic lines on the power steering box and hydro boost brake?

 

[DirtDonk]

Transmission fluid, yes, as long as it’s the correct size.
Hydraulic lines, certainly on the return side, but I will have to check to see if it’s rated for high-pressure like you would see in the pressure side of a hydraulic system.
We do both, so it’s possible we’re using the same hose. But I would need to check.
Get back to you on that…

 

[DirtDonk]

Definitely different hose from the high-pressure stuff, as expected.
Still waiting for confirmation on hydraulic fluid compatibility.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, general hydraulic use is perfectly fine. Just not high-pressure applications such as the business end of a steering pump. Just returns and transmission lines and such.

Paul

 

[1969miller]

what was the verdict on the headers? Did that get resolved? Which holes are you using on your ICT engine plates? Trying to place mine but i have no body on the truck for reference.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

what was the verdict on the headers? Did that get resolved? Which holes are you using on your ICT engine plates? Trying to place mine but i have no body on the truck for reference.

The headers got worked out. Sanderson, but different ones on each side per my earlier posts. I had to cut a little bit of the inner fender well on the passenger side for one of the tubes to clear. It fits with no issues with the frame. I haven’t hooked up the exhaust yet, but I don’t feel like there’s any issues.

As far as the engine mounts, it seems like once I switched the two sides, I had to use the holes that pushed the engine back towards the fire wall. My engine is still very close to the front, closer than I’d like. There’s got to be a better way to go. Not all frames and firewall locations are the same. Without a body on, I’d get clear measurements on required location and then try it with the ICT plates the correct way with the engine as far forward as possible. If that turns out successful, go with it.

 

[1969miller]

The headers got worked out. Sanderson, but different ones on each side per my earlier posts. I had to cut a little bit of the inner fender well on the passenger side for one of the tubes to clear. It fits with no issues with the frame. I haven’t hooked up the exhaust yet, but I don’t feel like there’s any issues.

As far as the engine mounts, it seems like once I switched the two sides, I had to use the holes that pushed the engine back towards the fire wall. My engine is still very close to the front, closer than I’d like. There’s got to be a better way to go. Not all frames and firewall locations are the same. Without a body on, I’d get clear measurements on required location and then try it with the ICT plates the correct way with the engine as far forward as possible. If that turns out successful, go with it.

Thanks! Helps a ton!

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

I did a test fit of the Atlas 2 this weekend. I was concerned that the transmission cross member that I fab’d up would be an issue for the front drive shaft. Sure enough It was. Simple fix thougH, I just need to “step down” the cross member 2 1/2” lower from the tranny to the drivers side frame. This will also provide a steel “shield” for anything wanting to hit the Atlas.

I plan to get the modified cross member back this week and maybe I will get everything installed this weekend.

It really feels like I”m nearing the point where I can start this thing up and drive it! Can’t wait.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Here’s the modified transmission crossmember. Passenger side is on the top of the pic.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Atlas install question, as I learn after the fact.

I have no idea what my front driveshaft angle was. As I pre-installed the atlas, I had it rotated about 45 degrees. I test fit the drive shaft and called it good. Modified my transmission cross member for clearance.

Now I’m re-installing and asking myself if the front driveshaft angle is ok?

Help!!!

 

[DirtDonk]

So what is the angle? And just as important, what is the angle of the front pinion.
Do you have pictures, along with any measurements?

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

My panic was a bit of an over-reaction, but was a concern.

I called Atlas tech support for help. My first concern was the rotation angle of the Atlas itself, which is designed to have a maximum of 46 degrees of rotation. I’m at about 44, so i should be okay.

The install was fairly simple, but since it’s going into a non-standard application the instructions had some gaps. Here’s the steps we took:

1) Test fit the TC for fit and clearance. This identified that my custom transmission crossmember needed to be modified, lowering the section below the TC for clearance.

2) With the modified crossmember back, first thing was to reinstall it with the TC still in place but not bolted in. Sure enough it fit perfectly. So we put some blue thread locker on it and torqued it down. We then pulled the TC back out to complete it’s final prep.

3). Final TC prep is simple: fluid fill, install and RTV the studs in the correct holes, and attach breather line.

4) Upon re-install we immediately identified that once the TC is in the correct position, access to two of the studs was being blocked by the crossmember. So we had to jack the engine back up and remove the crossmember, then reinstall the TC. Once this was done, we reinstalled the TC.

All looks good. I don’t have a concern anymore about the driveshaft angle, but I will measure it this weekend.

 

[Yeller]

Your angel is going to be better than many of us run. Some have to run a limit strap on the axle ti prevent over angling the ujoints to prevent an explosion from them binding.