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Need help with caster and bronco lean
- Thread starter Mclock
- Start date
Caster is pretty locked in by the C-bushings, so while you might gain or lose a tenth of a degree there based on how you clamp the caps, I don't see any way that you could impart a significant change bu just loosening things up. As for the lean, that can be a function of multiple things including the radius arms, so if they're the issue causing the lean (or a large part of it), then that could help with that.
Broncobowsher
Total hack
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2002
- Messages
- 37,049
I doubt that just loosening and tightening the caps will do anything. It could get sketchy if you back them off too far with weight on them. don't forget the coil buckets are bolted to both the arm and the cap.
If you twisted it and did a careful loosen and retighten (maybe 2 turns of the bolts max) you might change the lean.
But for caster you are not going to get through the noise. That is you are not going to change the numbers. There is enough variable in measuring it that any change will be in the window of repeatability of checking it.
If you twisted it and did a careful loosen and retighten (maybe 2 turns of the bolts max) you might change the lean.
But for caster you are not going to get through the noise. That is you are not going to change the numbers. There is enough variable in measuring it that any change will be in the window of repeatability of checking it.
Lift blocks?
Let's back up a step here.
Describe existing suspension, number of leaves in each rear spring, thickness of lift blocks for rear, any blocks or spacers between front coil buckets and radius arms, type of -C- bushings and radius arm mount bushings (poly or rubber), and distance between top of both axles and bottom of frame.
Have you had an alignment shop give you a print out of existing front end geometry?
Let's back up a step here.
Describe existing suspension, number of leaves in each rear spring, thickness of lift blocks for rear, any blocks or spacers between front coil buckets and radius arms, type of -C- bushings and radius arm mount bushings (poly or rubber), and distance between top of both axles and bottom of frame.
Have you had an alignment shop give you a print out of existing front end geometry?
Broncobowsher
Total hack
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2002
- Messages
- 37,049
That's not lean, that is rake. Lean is driver side higher/lower than passenger side. Incorrect terminology will get you incorrect results.
As for lowering the back and gaining caster. Simple right angle calculator and put in "1" and "92" (wheelbase) for the legs, math says 0.623° caster gain. Actual results may vary.
As for lowering the back and gaining caster. Simple right angle calculator and put in "1" and "92" (wheelbase) for the legs, math says 0.623° caster gain. Actual results may vary.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 51,602
Some Broncos sat high in the rear right from the factory.
Some Broncos have sagging front springs that let the rear sit high.
Some Broncos have aftermarket modifications to the rear (add-a-leaf, block, spring pack) that end up with the rear sitting high.
No Bronco came stock with rear blocks under the leaf springs until '78 and later full-size Broncos came along.
As was said, some more info would be great.
And while you're at it, you can measure a common point that was determined years ago to be very helpful in diagnosing and determining what height the suspension is sitting at currently.
Measure between the bottom of the frame rail and the top of the axle tubes, front and back, and see what you come up with.
Stock was "approximately" 7" in the front and 6" in the rear. Anything above or below that is lift or sag.
They are suspiciously approximate though, because not ever Bronco came the same way from the factory. The body style, suspension options, exterior options and added accessories, all can have an effect, no matter how slight, on the ride height.
But measuring will get you close enough to help.
Paul
Some Broncos have sagging front springs that let the rear sit high.
Some Broncos have aftermarket modifications to the rear (add-a-leaf, block, spring pack) that end up with the rear sitting high.
No Bronco came stock with rear blocks under the leaf springs until '78 and later full-size Broncos came along.
As was said, some more info would be great.
And while you're at it, you can measure a common point that was determined years ago to be very helpful in diagnosing and determining what height the suspension is sitting at currently.
Measure between the bottom of the frame rail and the top of the axle tubes, front and back, and see what you come up with.
Stock was "approximately" 7" in the front and 6" in the rear. Anything above or below that is lift or sag.
They are suspiciously approximate though, because not ever Bronco came the same way from the factory. The body style, suspension options, exterior options and added accessories, all can have an effect, no matter how slight, on the ride height.
But measuring will get you close enough to help.
Paul
Haha. Think there’s 5 leafs. 1 in lift block. 2 1/2 in lift in front with tb radius Arms with 4 deg built into them. Poly. Yes on the alignment.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 51,602
That 5-leaf pack was the base load range, while a 6-leaf pack was optional.
Now I'm trying to remember, if the 5 and 6 numbers included the thick, flatter "overload" leaf on the bottom. Or if they were 4 and 5 packs, respectively, and made 5 and 6 with the overload. I hate it when some basic information is missing in my brain!
Does your pack still have the overload leaf that's slightly separate from the rest? Or are they all curved along the same lines.
Sometimes the rears sag down right on top of the slightly less curved overload leaf, and sometimes people remove them.
The block was probably put in to help level it out for the front lift, but maybe over time the fronts have sagged down a bit?
Have you had the Bronco for a long time and did you do the lift? Or was it done by a previous owner?
Paul
Now I'm trying to remember, if the 5 and 6 numbers included the thick, flatter "overload" leaf on the bottom. Or if they were 4 and 5 packs, respectively, and made 5 and 6 with the overload. I hate it when some basic information is missing in my brain!
Does your pack still have the overload leaf that's slightly separate from the rest? Or are they all curved along the same lines.
Sometimes the rears sag down right on top of the slightly less curved overload leaf, and sometimes people remove them.
The block was probably put in to help level it out for the front lift, but maybe over time the fronts have sagged down a bit?
Have you had the Bronco for a long time and did you do the lift? Or was it done by a previous owner?
Paul
